2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Transfer Case vacuum lines

[fmj]

I have now confused myself. I need to see a picture of the lines going to my 241hd transfer case on 2001, 2500. It looks like a rubber connection has rotted and I now can't remember how or where it goes. I need either a diagram or photo (hopefully better than the ones I took) of where lines go onto case. I have done a search but can'r seem to get what I need, and the service manual doesn't cover. Any help will be appreciated.

 

[Timd32]

Does this help?

My 96 had this in section 3 of the FSM, .

I found this under Vacuum Disconnect.

I'm thinking you can eliminate 3 of the 4 quickly, 2 show going to the motor, one has the vent on the end. The other should be the supply with the check valve.

Won't be the first time this does not help at all or makes it more confusing.

 

[fmj]

Could get me further. I will get under again and look. What is confusing to me is that the rubber piece goes from one and looks like it splices to take two lines. 4 x 4 is all working as of now with current disconnected line(s). One of the lines has to be a vent??? Tmid32 will get back once I get a chance to look, will probably be Monday. Thanks for information.

 

[fmj]

Finally got back under truck today. Turns out the disconnected line was the green vent line. Had to get good light in there find and to see. Made sure the red and black lines were hooked up all the way to the front diff and they were. White line was to vacuum. Green vent line was hard to get to. Blew out vent lines to make sure they weren't plugged, all fine. Still not sure why line in first photo was as it came off vent line out of case and decayed so it wasn't hooked to green line. Made new hose and connected to green vent line that went up firewall. Thanks for information, appreciate it.

 

[JMcCoy]

I would eliminate the vacuum lines and install a Posi-loc. Works every time and eliminates half the vacuum lines.

 

[Timd32]

That's a interesting system for under $200.

I have yet to use 4lo, I do use 4hi pulling some hay wagons 2-3 days a year, just deal with the few turns that are a pain with it in 4wd in general. Have a few tight turns getting thru some exit gates when empty, where would be nice not to have it in 4wd.

My point to that is; would this put more stress on my old stuff engaging and disengauging 12-15 times, vs dealing with the binding for a few turns?

I also have a snow plow that I have not used would it work for that? I could see that helping with something like that making some tight turns. Same deal on the duty cycle in general of Turing it on and off alot.

One other benefit ot seems that system also has the 2lo stuff built into it. Most of what I read so far on the 2lo kind of stuff is for when folks are parking 5th wheels, which I'm not, that would be on and off maybe one to two times after a decent trip, nothing higher duty cycle have I come across yet.

 

[JMcCoy]

The 2Lo is unbelievable, backing or forward. No gas, just ride the brake and steer with one finger. I feel that it's easier on the truck than binding everything up in 4wd. It's much more reliable than the bd 2Lo kit and it eliminates he the vacuum diaphragm. I don't work for them. In fact, mine has been disconnected since I eliminated the CAD and put Ford free spin hubs in. The Posi-loc is a great system though and I would recommend it to anyone who still has their CAD. Hope this answers your questions.

 

[petersonj]

The 2Lo is unbelievable, backing or forward.

I couldn't agree with you more.

I installed a vacuum operated switch ( a GM heater / AC control from a wrecking yard) years ago. The cost was $5.00 and it has worked for over 280,000 miles. I think it is the best option because it allows for easy engagement and release of the CAD with vehicle slightly rolling. I use the 2WD Low frequently and I believe this is an excellent upgrade.

It is fairly easy to do, just about any automotive HVAC control with vacuum ports and a rotary control knob will work. Just need to figure out which ports will work - a vacuum pump with a gauge will be very helpful. Some ports will need to be capped off to make it work. The end result was well worth the effort.

- John