Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transgo or other shift kits

[98rammer]

yes, i've been doing a lot of researching lately and i've gotten lots of conflicting answers. i can slip my lock up clutch, but i want to stop that and have it hold the power i can now. i'd like firmer shifts, but nothing harsh. is the transgo worth getting? is it not worth getting? should i really save up for a full valve body? i know that with drilling the valve body... any little shavings will screw everything up are there any other kits out there that are available? i've been looking into a superior-transmission shift kit too. any help on the facts on whether these kits will hurt or improve??



thanks, Tom

 

[DavidGardner]

I have the DTT stuff in mine and like it very much. Their customer support and service is beyond reproach. I"m sure there are other venders out there with happy customers as well I'm just glad I went with DTT. (Diesel transmission technology) I Dont know their website address but maybe someone like Bob Wagner can give it to you. Best of luck with your upgrade.



Dave Gardner

 

[98rammer]

i'll be going with DTT in the future when i can afford it (www.dieseltrans.com) . i haven't gotten a straight answer on whether a shift kit will hurt or help the transmission. the stock valve body has overlap when shifting gears that is too long. a shift kit makes the overlap to use less time, but to me, harsh shifting seems like it'd be hard on the internals too.

 

[fox]

I have used the transgo kits for years in different dodge trucks.

My feelings are that the process of drilling holes in the castings is a sin and causes other problems. Especially with the electric trans since '96'.

My advice is to call DTT and just save time and trans with their valve body.

 

[Extreme1]

I modded my vb with a Transgo kit and help from Dave at Goerend Brothers Transmission (see my profile for a link). No harsh shifts here. The shifting harshness is caused by drilling out the seperator plate in the vp. Dave got me the number for the newer plate (same as in yours) that has a couple of holes smaller so it shifts better.



Give Dave a call, he is very helpfull and knowledgable.

 

[98rammer]

Originally posted by Extreme1

I modded my vb with a Transgo kit and help from Dave at Goerend Brothers Transmission (see my profile for a link). No harsh shifts here. The shifting harshness is caused by drilling out the seperator plate in the vp. Dave got me the number for the newer plate (same as in yours) that has a couple of holes smaller so it shifts better.



Give Dave a call, he is very helpfull and knowledgable.

i see that you're putting some good power through your trans. how long has it been modified like that? i probably wont go too much higher- 3k gsk, and maybe 215 injectors until i upgrade converter or the whole thing. ok, you didn't drill out the holes in the seperator plate... . what parts did you change? i'm MOST interested in better lock up clutch holding power so it doesn't slip when towing uphill at 60mph (3. 54s-- the max weight i haul is 4000lbs. ). should i just drill out the area for the lock up clutch holding pressure, or is there more to it than that? i'm also hearing that having the lock up clutch hold will just move the weak points to somewhere else in the trans...



thanks,

Tom

 

[Blakers]

I'm not sure there's anything you can do to prevent a stock TC clutch from slipping, especially if it's already been slipping. Perhaps more line pressure will help - that's about the only thing I can think of that could. But I'm no transmission expert.



The other components in your transmission should hold up to much more the the TC clutch will.



I guess you have a few choices...



... get yourself a better TC - triple disk or DTT or whatever you like and the valve body that goes with it. Put it in or have it put in and hope the transmission will last you without rebuilding.



... get a complete rebuild transmission and TC from a company noted for their good work with these trucks (a few out there).



... just run it like it is and baby and nurse it, keeping your foot out of it on hills, and see how long it lasts. You may get several more years out of it depending on how bad it is now. Then, when it goes, get a complete rebuilt transmission and TC. Really you won't be out much different money than the previous suggestion, unless it gives out on you in the middle of nowhere and you have to tow her home. Either way you'll replace the whole assembly.



Perhaps the Transgo will give you a little more line pressure and help you slipping. If it does, it may delay the replacement.



Good luck,



Blake

 

[DavidGardner]

The bad thing about driving it until it pukes is that there is always the possibility of having little metal parts and shavings go through your trans cooling lines and the trans cooler. Not good. If not thouroughly cleaned and flushed could contaminate your new rebuilt trans and cause damage or accelerated wear.



Just my opinion.

Dave Gardner.

 

[98rammer]

look in my truck profile. i turned up the line pressure 3 turns which does hold better. i do have an UNlock/stock switch. i run around unlocked around town and locked usually only above 70mph. however, since the fluid coupling is so bad on the stock torque converter, i waste a ton of fuel on the highway unlocked, especially with a trailer. i CAN keep it from slipping, but i towed my dad's snowmobile trailer last night and it did slip on a small hill (at 60mph). however, at 70/75mph it may hold since the rpms will be above 2000- i'll see during the snowmobiling season. i guess i'll keep it the way it is or get a full VB... until i can get the whole transmission in 1 1/2+ years.



Tom

 

[Strick-9]

The steel manual valves in the transgo kits are of terrible quality.



Most of the ones I've seen are rusted when you open the package. Something about putting a rusted valve in a high performance valvebody just turns my stomach.



Drilling out the hole in the boost valve circuit will help. Don't worry about getting shavings in the valvebody. You remove the cover of the boost valve and drill out the cover only. That way you can clean it and reinstall it without getting any shavings in the valvebody.



Definately turn up the pressure. But do extensive pressure tests both before and after the install. Check overdrive pressure, front servo pressure, mainline pressure, governor pressure, and rear servo pressure. The best bet is to look in your service manual and do all the pressure tests they recommend.



You are looking for pressure leaks with these tests.



Be prepared to fight limp mode problems (there are many discussions on resistors and other fixes here in the archives. ) that pop up when you increase line pressure beyond about 10 psi.



Also be ready to suffer with poor shift patterns until you get a properly tuned valvebody.



Also be aware that in my experience the front clutch fails 2:1 over the torque converter lockup clutch in these trannies with upgraded power. It's very possible that your front clutch is slipping and not your lockup clutch. If so, a valvebody won't cure that.



A properly installed shift kit is definately better than what you have now and they are cheap if you are willing to do it yourself, but the key is properly installed. And that is assuming you won't have any front lipseal problems.



There are so many 'what if's' that it's hard to give an easy answer or recommendation for situations like this.



Keep the rpms up when pulling and these trannies will last a long time.



Good luck,

Chris