Archived Transmision woes. Truck down since July.

[ABeattie]

Hello everyone. First timer, just joined. I have a 2000, 2500 diesel AUTOMATIC. I was towing a trailer that shorted out on me and that is when I lost overdrive, and I had no choice but to go on and it fried my trans. The company I work for paid for it, I had a Pheonix Hard Parts trans put in it, and even did some upgrade work on while I was at it. That trans would not work right off the bat because they put the wrong governor switch in it. They corrected that and then it only lasted about 60 miles before burning up the tail section. They got it back and supposedly gave me a different one, well that only lasted about 40 miles before it started overheating, I noticed it early this time because I watched the oil temp. The trans is on its way back to arizona to be replaced with another. My question is, does anybody know if there is something else that can be causing these problems? The dealer that I go to, I have know for along time and they are good, and they have checked just about everything that there is. I put on a new cooler and the engine mounted cooler has been removed checked and flushed. I dont want to fry another transmission. :{ I WANT MY TRUCK BACK :{

 

[JoshPeters]

Get it out of there! They sound like they have no idea what they are doing. These transmissions aren't THAT complicated. If they have messed up 2 of them, it's not worth your time. Personally I'd do a bit of calling, and web browsing and find a company that will pull your transmission and swap out one of the GOOD companys that we on the TDR know about.



www.gbtransmissions.com <~~ my choice

I don't remember DTT or ATS's websites, but they are also Very good companies. The money that is being spent now is probably pretty close to what you would pay for one of their units, and they will last 100times longer.



Josh

 

[bmoeller]

www.gbtransmissions.com <~~ my choice

I don't remember DTT or ATS's websites, but they are also Very good companies. The money that is being spent now is probably pretty close to what you would pay for one of their units, and they will last 100times longer.



Josh

I'm with Josh on this one. Sounds like a lube problem to me. Valvebody issue or internal leakage probably.



www.atsdiesel.com



www.dieseltrans.com

 

[JoshPeters]

The other thing to mention is the Warranty of each of the companies. Goerend brothers has the best of anyone. 100,000 on the trans, and depending on the converter, either 100,000miles (single disc) or lifetime on a tripple disc.



Josh

 

[JR2]

First off let me welcome you to the TDR. Sorry your first post has to be a 911.



I think if possible I would talke to the transmission shop and try to get your $$ back. After two tries I think its time to go somewhere else. Try any of the companies mentioned above. I think Fred Swanson of Desert Diesel is in AZ. Maybe he could help. Anybody have his number???

 

[Missouri Mule]

I would go with different transmission companies. One of the ones mentioned above would be good.

 

[ABeattie]

Thanks for all the info guys. They are building another trans right now, and instead of doing a 30 minute dyno test. I am tring to get them to heavy load it for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. I wish I would have signed up to TDR earlyer to get info on good trans builders. I was told by 3 diferent people that have gotten Pheonix hard parts trans, and they all love them. But does anybody know of anything electricaly that could cause problems to make it overheat the tailend of the trans?

 

[JoshPeters]

Well first off would be low pressures to the OD section. Second, being a misplaced or improper Thrust bearings. A bad overrunning clutch could cause some issues as well.



Those are all items in just the OD section that can cause issues.



Josh

 

[DPKetchum]

Trans cooler in radiator stopped up. Sometimes they WON"T flush. Check cooler lines,replace radiator

 

[Fred Swanson]

It's not electrical. You have a lube issue, or the O/D section wasn't setup properly. Since you've had more than one replacement transmission in there, it is more than likely a lube issue. You mentioned it overheated too. Another good indicator of a lube issue. The shop doing the work needs to test pressures on the cooler line outlet and inlet to the transmission. Any restriction on the cooler line will heat it up, and burn up the OD section quickly.



I believe he stated a new cooler was installed, along with flushing the heat exchanger. Make sure the check ball in the cooler line to the heat exchanger is either removed, or opening, allowing cooler flow.

 

[DPKetchum]

Seen MANY that the cooler in radiator was flushed and burned up units. Had to be replaced!

 

[ABeattie]

I had a new Dodge trans cooler installed , as well a new check valve on the engine mounted cooler ,and they flushed and did a flow test and everything was supposed to be good. Can you take out the check valve?? I will add that when it got hot I crawed under the truck and the trans line where cool and the trans cooler was cold, seems to me it should have been hot.

 

[Joe Mc]

They do need to perform flow and pressure checks "in vehicle". If the lines were cool and the temp was hot it sounds like you've got a no flow situation. I've had a brake line pressure lock on me once due to a deterioration inslde creating a flap that acted like a check valve and wouldn't release pressure. Possible whats going on or if the lines are crossed you could be flowing against the check in the cooler???

 

[LMcCary]

The only thing electrical that could cause this type of failure is a broken or loose frame to engine ground cable. It is possible that the trucks electrical is finding ground through the drive line, which would cause bearing failure. This is sometimes easy to determine by examining the failed parts and looking for what looks like electrical errosoion of metal.

I lean toward a lubrication problem though, until the parts can be throughly examined, you may never know what happened to them.

FIND another shop. One that has knowledgeable technicians that can diagnose both electrical and lubrication problems. Not sure about AZ, but in most states you have the right to take that truck anywhere to have it repaired. Most Shops will honor the repair bill. Sometimes you may have to go to small claims court. I have never seen a judge go against a consumer in a case like this of obivious ignorance. Run, fly, have your truck towed to another shop!!!!

 

[JoshPeters]

To me it honestly sounds like a bad valve body or an improperly assembled OD section.



If there was no cooler, you'd loose more than OD. Quite honestly, under the load you move, you'd notice it the first shift.



Just my Opinion.

Josh

 

[ABeattie]

They said they checked in the vehicle and flow was ok.

 

[DPKetchum]

I've had MANY that checked good flow. sent to radiator shop and had them opened up. Found them with crud all around the cooler tubes and not getting rid of the heat etc. Nissan had a TSB on ANY auto trans rebuild or replace to REPLACE radiator no matter how good flow was. Seen a Pathfinder ruin 3 autos in a 1000 to 4000 miles each. A dodge 1500 360 ruin one every 6 to 10k for 40k plus. Replaced radiator no more issues.

 

[LEnglish]

I would get a good temp gauge on the transmission.



When I 1st put my transmission in I put a pressure gauge on a few ports to make sure I did not have any cross over pressre from the VB. Some times a VB can have cross leaks. I also made sure the line pressure was rising like is should.

 

[ABeattie]

I put a temp sensor in the pan, and that is how I noticed there was a problem with it starting to overheat.

 

[LMcCary]

If it is overheating, then it is over working, slipping or not cooling. NEVER reuse a radiator cooler, because there is no way to clean it. Also check the oil line thermostat, if there is one, it may be stuck closed.