transmission change II

[ralphr]

I tried searching for the original, but it wasn't there! I had posted questions on changing my AT fluid anf filter and got several good responses, (always get good responses), and a few asked that I post the results.

Well I "chickend" out, I could say I got busy, its been unusually cold here, etc. . but bottom line I decided to get it done! Went to local Pensoil quick lube place, explained that I had the filter and gasket wanted to change AT fluid and filter, also adjust the front and rear bands. They refused to touch the bands but gave me a price I could not refuse, ($50 with up to 6 quarts of amsoil ATF!!!), so I took it. Old fluid still bright red, no crud in pan, old filter looked good also. drained 6 quarts of old fluid, (owner stated amsoil would mix well with any existing fluid left in, (about 3 quarts??) and by next change should be > 95% amsoil. Real nice, clean in and out in half hour.

Only real question is, what did I miss by not adjusting the bands? Front adjustment is from outside, should I atempt to adjust it only? Whats your feeling????

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1999 3500 quad cab, auto aero fendor trim and running boards,
bugflector II, K&N filter, Geno's monster tip

 

[Bob Wagner]

There should be a total of about 14 quarts total. Is it good to mix Amsoil with stock ATF? #ad
Idon't think so.

 

[LSMITH]

Adjust both bands. It is a lot easier than you think. You can loosen the valve body bolts three turns and get 10-11 quarts out, and then you would be able to get 95% on the second change. As far as mixing the oil I have no idea if that is good or not. You will not get all of the fluid out without removing the trans.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S Everything but leather NRA Member

 

[Mopar-muscle]

drop the pan , adjust front band by loosening locknut , unscrew the adjuster a couple of turns , insert a 1/4 inch allen wrench between the lever and the piston , snug down the adjuster , but not enough to start compressing the piston , lock the locknut down to 35 ft/lbs.

as far as the rear band ,(you must have filter removed to reach this one) . you are stuck , you must use and inch pound torque wrench , use a dial of beam type as you can get an inaccurate setting with a clicker , i used a clicker when doing my front and it was WAY OFF when i dropped it to do the filter change 2000 miles later , tighten to 72 inch pounds , but i don't know how many turns out after you get that spec , i'll look at my book later and edit this , then tighten locknut 35 ft/lbs.

remove the front cooler line from trans and let it drain , not sure how much will come out of convertor but you will drain out alot. reinstall filter , tighten to 100 inchpounds , reinstall pan , if you don't have a pan with a drain plug , now is the time to do it , or install a drain plug from B+M in your stock pan .

as far as the flush and fill , its stupid not to do the filter also , and they really don't get everything out of the convertor .

 

[DLysne]

Yes the flushing systems will be hooked up to the lines and it will suck most of it out. I went to my local oil change place and we dropped the pan, you only get about 5 quarts out. I then put the new filter in replaced the cover and we hooked up the flushing machine. I was "amazed" at how much more transmission fluid still came out. If you have the chance watch them do it to see how the machine works. On the machine these guys have it had a clear cover so you could watch the old oil coming in.

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1998 2500 Ext Cab 12valve. TST #8, Isspro guages on A-pillar, JRE 4", & Scotty Air.

[This message has been edited by rmk (edited 02-07-2001). ]

 

[M1A2]

What about the transmission "flushes" that most quick lube places are advertising now. My understanding is that they flush/vacumn all the fluid out, to include what is in the TC. My first thought was that it was kinda like changing your engine oil and not changing the filter. Maybe after dropping the pan and changing the filter then flush. Comments?

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1999 FLAME RED 2500 SLT, QC, 4X4 AT, 3. 54 AGATE LEATHER