transmission choice

[jeepit]

Ok, I have been searching thru archives and did not find anything lately about auto versus stick. I want to get a new 2001 4x4 QC LB model. Most trucks on lots are 3:54 geared with autos. Is this because they can't unload them?Or what. I tow a 6500lbs trailer 2 times a month. O/W mostly in town driving. I live in the midwest so there are not any mountains to climb while pulling. Thought I was just going to get the 6 speed but now after reading threads maybe the auto is the way to go. And if it is an auto 3:54 or 4:10? Whatever anyone can give me in the way of mpg, rpm at 70 mph, or what their experience has been for either would be appreciated. I am going to try a 6 speed this pm to see if I can handle city driving with it or get bored of it and check out the auto.

 

[Bigramguy]

The 3. 54's are just more popular,so that seems to be what the dealer's order for stock.



I have the 3. 54\auto combo and it's great,any more gear and my cruise RPM would be too high,even with 285\75R16's. If you plan on going bigger than a 33" tall tire then maybe the 4. 10's would be better for the future.



Auto versus manual is just personal preference. They are all good trannies,just get whatever you want. I "prefer" to drive a standard most of the time,but when I'm stuck in traffic,tired and just want to get home the auto is much nicer. Either way you'll love the new truck !!

 

[boonsur]

Unless you're going to be pulling huge loads, up big hills, I think you'll probably be happier with the 3. 54's. With the 4. 10's, I turn about 2,400 rpm at 75 mph, which seems like too much. There is plenty more power, but it really feels like the engine is working more than it wants to. I don't think the tow ratings for the 3. 54's are going to be that much worse. Also, I think most of the people who get 18-20 mpg run with the 3. 54's.



The auto transmission is weak. It will give you problems with high loads, unless you have DTT mods done, or really baby it.

 

[BK]

I'm running a 99 2500 with auto and 3. 54's.

I pull just about what your pulling. . On the flats I have Zero complaints.







Once we get on the mountains and grades of upstate NY, I still couldn't complain compared to the others I passed... but the only person that gave me something to complain about is my buddy in his '01 3500 with 4. 10 HO six speed towing 10Klbs of a 5'ver.



He said,, "everytime I looked back, I saw you in my review like there was a chain attached... I was wondering what the heck I paid for. . than I remembered that I got about 4Klbs more to tow than you do"...



But it I was pedal to the floor to keep up with him, I found out later his go pedal was at the same position.



On the longest of grades, I would loose some ground to him about a minute before he started to loose it.



On the down grades, his 6 speed and Jbrake is great.

I never saw his brake lights... mine were glowing all the time.



So if your on the flats, the basic auto with 3. 54's will put a smile on your face...



I agree with BigRamGuy. . since I'll be putting taller tires on, I wish I had the 4. 10's... but untill I get them on, I won't know how bad I'll want the 4. 10's. . some guys say that there is soo much low end torque I won't notice the difference... .





Bob

 

[Okie-Go]

I went from an auto to the 6 spd. I have never regretted it at all. I can say this after pulling trailers through downtown Houston more than once. I am doing 70 at 2,000 rpm. If I ever quit buying toys I am thinking about 3. 73's for mine.

 

[RustyJC]

The QC 4x2 3500 ETH/DEE with 3. 54's is rated at 20,000 GCVWR.



The QC 4x2 3500 ETH/DEE with 4. 10's is rated at 21,500 GCVWR.



I believe you're limited to 16,000 GCVWR with the automatic and 3. 54's (someone correct me if I'm wrong. ) Not sure about the automatic and 4. 10's.



If you want to stay within the truck's GCVWR, you can pick your drivetrain combo based on the combined loaded weight of your truck and trailer. We had to go with the 4. 10's with the Cummins HO/6 speed manual to be legal pulling our 13,500 GVWR 5ver, but I'm already planning on a U. S. Gear 20% overdrive to drop the cruising RPM when running unloaded. 2000 RPM @ 60 MPH is fine for towing, but 2350 RPM @ 70 MPH gets on the nerves (although it doesn't seem to bother the Cummins at all. )



Rusty

 

[BK]

Rusty,,

your correct, according to the data I have...



----------------GCWR ----- Trailer max, 4x2------Trailer max, 4x4

Auto/3. 54 ---16Klbs ------ 10. 2Klbs ------------- 9,800

Auto/4. 10 ----18Klbs ----- 12. 2Klbs ------------- 11,800

5spd/either-- 20Klbs ----- 14. 2Klbs ------------- 13,700





DC requires trailers over 10klbs be 5'vers.

@ 20Klbs, DC requires the camper option group to acheive this.





The GCWR is the same for the 4x4 version, (since your supposed to subtract the actual vehicle and trailer weight from the GCWR to get your load max, but non alone are supposed to exceed their individual max rating, nor combined) But trailer weight is deducted by 400 or 500 lbs. .

added it above. .



Mind you this is from mn 99 and 00 data... so I dont have it for the HO and 6 speed. sorry.



Bob

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

I own a 01 quad 4X4 auto 24 V 4. 10 gears . I tow a 5000 lb horse trailer(gooseneck) with another 6000 lbs of horses in it. That puts me over what I should at with the suggested GCWR. I have no mods(yet on my truck and it pulls fine. It does get a little hairy coming down a steep hill but if you take it easy you will be fine. The benifit of having a manual trans is the ease of installing an exaust break. There are several problems in installing one on an auto. Dont get me wrong, It can be done, but it is spendy... ... ... I only tow three to four times a month and drive this as my daily driver. I am a lazy sob and don't want to shift like when I was 16. that is why I went with the auto trans. As for pulling a hill there isn't one big enough>>>>>>>>>>>>