transmission cooler fan

[TORQUE THIS]

What are ya using and can I get it from NAPA, SUMMIT, JEGS???



Looking for something easy and cheap, (if there is such a thing)!

 

[Uncle Joe]

I you want to go cheap,try your local pick an pull or other self service bone yard,there are plenty of skinny fans off hondas and such,the damage shouldn't go above $15. 00

 

[Josparkz]

I got a nice one from Summit once.

 

[JB @ C and L Machine]

TORQUE THIS:. . do a search on transmission coolers. . I to am in the market for a cooler and did a search last night and came up with a lot of different options. BD offers one also... but its over 200 with the install kit. JB

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Mark, I remember Scott having a few in stock and I think they were under 200. 00

 

[bmoeller]

http://www.jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml?CATID=364535&BQ=tt

 

[TowPro]

thats a good price on the B&M cooler, I think, have not priced them. Is this the one with the larger lines I read we need to use?

Originally posted by bmoeller

http://www.jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml?CATID=364535&BQ=tt

 

[1dslram]

Summit has good prices on coolers and fans. I got my fans from Summit and the cooler from Truck Parts.

Bruce

 

[rweis]

I took out my transmission one way check valve and only have a transmission temp problem when I back up my 5er for more than about 3 minutes. The fluid flow is about double I think without the one way check valve and one less critical part ot worry about.



I have been thinking that I might put a water maxijet spray nozzle on the transmission cooler for just that time I back the 5er and cool it with water spray. Shouldn't wet the engine because the problem is there is not fan draw at that time. Tuck a gallon of water somewhere, 12v pump, switch, maxijet, some tubing.



The threads I have read about fans and the transmission cooler have been marginal in effect. Might add a second cooler with a built in fan and that might provide the temp reduction. A horton fan would be a good idea, but don't make it for a 2002 and it is expensive!



Does not happen often, but when it does, the temps climb fairly quickly. Of course I put it in netural and just sit for a couple of minutes and let it cool, but it really doesn't cool off, just down some.



Bob Weis

 

[TowPro]

Did you notice any difference in temps by removing this valve?



Is this the one they added when they discovered the convertor drains down after sitting for a couple days, causing a whineing sound when backing up cold?



where is the valve? If it makes it cooler I might remove it, but being as mine will be under warrantee as long is my lease is, it might not be worth the bother of taking a chance of voiding the warrantee.

Originally posted by rweis

I took out my transmission one way check valve and only have a transmission temp problem when I back up my 5er for more than about 3 minutes. The fluid flow is about double I think without the one way check valve and one less critical part ot worry about. Bob Weis

 

[rweis]

ALL temps are in the hot line/ pan.



Empty I seldom run more that 150/150 at medium speeds empty. When I get some slippage it goes to about 175/150. Almost never get more than 175/150 empty.



Towing 5er 8k out of OD 60mph, flat FL, OAT 85*, 175/175. Backing is where the prob is and it is no air flow, hence the ideas on cooling the transmission cooler at those times.



Once when I asked BK about the check valve he said he does NOT automatically remove it. Depends on the characteristics of the drivers of that truck. You HAVE to put the stock transmission in neutral for 30 second to charge the lube circuit before selecting a gear. He said the flow would be about double vs with it. One less critical failure point. IF it sticks closed your transmission is DONE! The 2003 had a tough time with it at first. Seems the changes in design of the 1wcv was flawed and they killed several trannys with min miles.



On the 2002 3500 the valve is on the most rearward water heat exchanger port. There is a NAPA Westfield part that is a direct replacement which is basically a 1/2 NPT male to AN -8 male (I think, I have the part # in a file). It is a BIT. . to get to and get out.



The converter WILL drain without it. The whine was no fluid I think (not a transmission expert). With the DTT aftermarket rebuild they charge the lube circuit in park as well as netural.



Bob Weis

 

[Josparkz]

Originally posted by rweis



Once when I asked BK about the check valve he said he does NOT automatically remove it. . He said the flow would be about double vs with it. Bob Weis [/B]

I didn't realize there was that much of a difference in the flow rates.

How does this effect temperatures ?

I can see that the fluid spends less time in the converter , but it also spends less time in the cooler.

 

[Snow man]

TQT, is the fan just for insurance or do you do a lot of stop and go? I rarely see over 170 hot line,ans just pop it in N if im stuck in traffic,this keeps mine down pretty good.

 

[Big White Beast]

I'm using these........

Got them from this place, prices seem fair for what is out there.



http://www.mattsonsradiator.com/



They don't help much though. If I had a bad heat problem I'd add water as Jweiss said. I did put a sender in the pan to see how much difference it made.



My observations were that even when my line temps were reading 180° in heavy traffic the pan was still around 150° and climbing very slowly. The fans do slow down the climb in temps but will not prevent them. I have the regular Mag pan not the double deep. (2 extra qts) The double would probably be the best bet if your temps regularly get high.



These findings were for normal to heavy traffic. I haven't had the opportunity to check on an extended hard run up a grade. I imagine eventually the pan temps will equalize with the line temps. We've got some steep grades out here but they aren't that long and I crest them before the temps even start reaching 180°.



Garrett



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[1dslram]

Each of my fans reduce the temp about 20* in traffic where there is no air flow. I can check the temp entering and leaving each cooler. this to me is a significant drop when otherwise the temp would just keep going up before now it is stable at 210* in traffic with a max of 250* leaving the trans.

Bruce

 

[TowPro]

I just looked it up in a Jegs catalog, its like $20. 00 cheeper (If I was looking at the same one), plus they had an even bigger one!



they also had the B&M setup with the fan.

Originally posted by TowPro

thats a good price on the B&M cooler, I think, have not priced them. Is this the one with the larger lines I read we need to use?

 

[fortunate1]

I put in another cooler under the cab behind the driver's seat. I also disconnected the OEM cooler that "cools" the ATF with 190 deg. radiator coolant. Replaced with a small air cooler that fits in the space allowed. I put a high flow fan on the under-cab fan for slow speeds when air flow isn't what it needs to be. Mag Hytec DD pan allows for more ATF to circulate through the transmission system. Temps taken in the pan.



Results:

On a recent trip to Boston, I made the mistake of going on I-95 the whole way up: through Philly & NYC. Each town had its own traffic troubles; 45 mins through Philly around the sports complex and 2-1/2 hours through NYC (about 15 miles). The pan never got over 150 deg through the stop & go. If it started to creep up, I turned on the fan. It also helps to shift into Neutral if you're going to be stopped for a few minutes.

BTW, even with all that traffic/stop&go I got 21. 5 mpg from around Hampton, VA to Boston and back again. Not bad. I did NOT return through NYC, but went further west. 100 miles more = 2 hours quicker.

 

[Cooker]

Originally posted by fortunate1

I also disconnected the OEM cooler that "cools" the ATF with 190 deg. radiator coolant.

fortunate1,

Did you have this setup last winter. How cold does it get in your neck of the woods? If I am not mistaken, this "cooler" is actually to aid in warming up and maintaining heat in the transmission in cooler months.



Even with 180 degree coolant, my transmission temps rarely climb over 140 (measured in the hot line) in the cold winter months. I do not know how cold it would be without this heat exchanger.



Just a thought.

 

[fortunate1]

Cooker,

I'm sure that it doesn't get as cold here as in Grand Rapids, but it will consistently get below freezing at night in the winter. The OEM cooler does help warm the ATF, but so does driving. I noticed that it took a minute or two longer for the ATF to get as warm as with the original plumbing. The ATF won't overcool though. It'll stay between 100 and 125 even in the coldest temps. Those are a couple of things I wanted to find out during the winters to see if I should stay with the old or new setup. I've had it this way for 2 winters and this is the second summer. I like it better this way, and I'll take out the cylindrical cooler when I change/flush/fill the radiator system.

The temps in the hot weather are usually 50-55 deg above ambient temp, so it rarely goes above 150 for me, even in stop & go driving. If it's NYC-ugly, then the fan helps move more air.