Transmission Cooler Line

[Iron Duke II]

I ordered a transmission cooler line set to replace the oem lines from and to the 47re that have been weeping fluid at the crimp fittings near the transmission cooler. https://powerdrivendiesel.com/install-transmission-cooler-line/

Realizing it is likely unavoidable, would there be any guidance on the best way to remove the old lines including the output to and from the heat ex-changer with the minimal amount of fluid loss and mess? I have no lift. The trans pan has a drain plug, should I just drain system to start?

 

[Timd32]

I removed my one return line and ran the truck in N till it just started to stop coming out a bit.

Those lines are on the driver's side so its pretty simple to do that.

There was still some in the lines on the passenger side and heat exchanger but not too bad overall.

A bunch of us use those big mortar plastic bins pretty inexpensive and cover a large area.

I have no lift but a garage with concrete floor, able to get under not too bad with no assistance from a jack.

Good luck with your project.

 

[Timd32]

This has the fancy TTVA, but the rest is all the same.

 

[Iron Duke II]

I have a couple of the large black plastic pans for mixing small batches of mortar or concrete that should work ok. The tip to run the truck with the return line disconnected from the rear of the transmission "N till it just starts to stop coming out a bit" is helpful to know. Hopefully the connections at the trans and heat exchanger will loosen without much fuss. I've removed the bumper to get at the front cooler connections.

 

[Timd32]

Yeah I slipped a piece of hose over that into a 5 gal bucket.

The cooler lines in the front that have those quick disconnects, I cut off the hose quick disconnect and slipped that over the small barb end of the hard line exiting the cooler and used those smooth band hose clamps, forget the technical name but they don't dig into the hose.

Hard lines were fine.

If you don't need to mess with the heat changer on the pass side of the block they are hoses down to hard lines.

I was able to reuse my hose(s) on that. Maybe it's just a single hose, and a hard line been a while. The back one is a hose from what I recall.

The original hard lines if not rubbed thru are great, mine lasted a long time, for the rub spots I used some smaller hose over those areas, I had one rub thru and leak which is why I had to change the hard line.

The quick disconnects I could not get the doorman ones to work at all is why I cut them off in the front, lots of posts where folks cut them off.

The larger pans work well for when you drop then pan to change the filter.

 

[Iron Duke II]

The kit I will be receiving doesn't mention anything about a inline check valve, however I came across the following forum that does. If I do come across one, should it be left in place? https://www.dieseltruckresource.com...ssion-cooler-line-check-valve-removal-119440/

 

[Timd32]

I had nothing like that. Could be a 24v 98.5 and newer deal possibly.

Personally I would keep something like that installed. Not sure on the benefits or issues of keeping that, someone else might have better idea.

 

[DavidC]

The kit I will be receiving doesn't mention anything about a inline check valve, however I came across the following forum that does. If I do come across one, should it be left in place? https://www.dieseltruckresource.com...ssion-cooler-line-check-valve-removal-119440/

Mine is still there. Some say it causes a restriction and drill out the plastic ball retaining the fitting it is in. If your valve body has not been modified to flow in park you will likely need to idle in neutral up to 30 seconds to refill lines, TC etc. I always let mine idle letting everything stabilize so to me it would not be a big deal if the check valve was gone.

 

[BigPapa]

Anywhere that you have to screw a fitting out of, ESPECIALLY the Heat Exchanger, make SURE you use a wrench to hold whatever you’re screwing the fitting out of.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Anywhere that you have to screw a fitting out of, ESPECIALLY the Heat Exchanger, make SURE you use a wrench to hold whatever you’re screwing the fitting out of.

Respectfully, are you referring to another wrench (like a backer wrench) placed on to fittings on say the Heat Exchanger, or something else? Thanks

 

[BigPapa]

Respectfully, are you referring to another wrench (like a backer wrench) placed on to fittings on say the Heat Exchanger, or something else? Thanks

Yes, that’s exactly what I was trying to describe. Sorry I wasn’t clear.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Mine is still there. Some say it causes a restriction and drill out the plastic ball retaining the fitting it is in. If your valve body has not been modified to flow in park you will likely need to idle in neutral up to 30 seconds to refill lines, TC etc. I always let mine idle letting everything stabilize so to me it would not be a big deal if the check valve was gone.

Yeah, I not know whether the trans valve body has a modification to flow in park. It was replaced 20 or so yrs ago with a BD upgrade unit by the original owner. I'll need to poke around underneath to better understand if the check valve is there.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Yes, that’s exactly what I was trying to describe. Sorry I wasn’t clear.

I thought you were. Just wanted to double check. Thanks

 

[Iron Duke II]

I had nothing like that. Could be a 24v 98.5 and newer deal possibly.

Personally I would keep something like that installed. Not sure on the benefits or issues of keeping that, someone else might have better idea.

If it is there, I will be pondering what to do for sure.

 

[Iron Duke II]

The following is helpful for reference.
https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/transmission-cooler.330116/

 

[Timd32]

The following is helpful for reference.

IMO this is a Cummins part not a Dodge part, I don't think it exactly works how they listed in that thread.

I agree it's designed to bring the trans temp up not cool it down. There was a transengineer user on here maybe some of his threads will address this topic, he was a design engineer back in the day.

Now it's fully possible my valve was removed, I highly doubt it as mine is a North East truck and most of it resembled the Titanic. No one seemed to touch anything on mine.

My pics are below of what I did on mine. Exterior of mine was weeping. Not really worried this thing would fail but rot away was my thinking.

You can easily delete this and jumper it out with no ill effects to trans operation is my thinking.

 

[Iron Duke II]

I have yet to crawl under and look for a check valve, however the tech at Power Driven Diesel, where the replacement cooler line kit is being sourced, has recommended that if the check valve is in place to remove it when installing the new kit.

Is the newer heat exchanger in your pictures an oem replacement?

 

[Timd32]

OEM is very cost prohibitive for me anyway, I think the cummins shop wanted over $3k, and the dealer wanted over $2k.

Almost certain it was USA produced it was a very nice product. They had a very nice support folks. Maybe call them and check.

Here is the link.

https://www.americancoolingsolution...ram-cummins-replaces-3926670-4762090-4746216/

 

[JMcCoy]

Iron Duke II: "Realizing it is likely unavoidable, would there be any guidance on the best way to remove the old lines including the output to and from the heat ex-changer with the minimal amount of fluid loss and mess?"

As far as making a mess, the first thing you want to do is take quart of old transmission fluid (old preferably) and dump it over your head, making sure you get plenty in your face and back. Now your ready to properly service your transmission. I usually like to wear a good shirt too.

 

[Iron Duke II]

Iron Duke II: "Realizing it is likely unavoidable, would there be any guidance on the best way to remove the old lines including the output to and from the heat ex-changer with the minimal amount of fluid loss and mess?"

As far as making a mess, the first thing you want to do is take quart of old transmission fluid (old preferably) and dump it over your head, making sure you get plenty in your face and back. Now your ready to properly service your transmission. I usually like to wear a good shirt too.

The best guidance yet.