transmission cooler

[BlackBullit]

Just wondering if its a crazy idea to eliminate the cooler/heat exchanger on the engine block? My truck is an '03 with the 48RE. I was wanting to do it so i don't have it fail and then have to do a transmission rebuild.

 

[Bob4x4]

You need the cooling capacity

 

[BlackBullit]

Is there any aftermarket upgrade to fix that cooler?

 

[cerberusiam]

No upgrades only a possible replacement at a cheaper cost. Doesn't really need fixed as it is not a high failure rate item. If you don't tow and live where it is relatively warm most of the time it can be replaced with a air to fluid cooler that seems to be pretty decent.

 

[BlackBullit]

I have it set up as a service truck and also use it as my personal vehicle. I think it's loaded weight is right about 9k lb. I hardly ever tow with it. Here in the norther part of CA we dont get just lots of hot weather. So most of the time it sorta cool here.



So you don't think it just a real big concern about the cooler goin out?



Would putting a bigger cooler up front make up for the difference of taking this cooler out?

 

[cerberusiam]

I suspect a lot of the failures of the heat exchangers are due to work being done on the lines connecting them. If one is not careful tightening and loosening the connections on the body of the exchanger itself it would be easy to crack the internal lines on them. There is no direct correlation but a few I have talked to people about have happened after replacing a line for one reason or another. A coincidence or ????

Really, with all the trucks on the road with the heat exchangers on them you don't hear about massive numbers of failures. Not anywhere near the number of inector failures, water pump failures, etc, etc. That has to mean something. A failure is definitely painful and expensive because it does require a trans rebuild in most cases, but, it doesn't seem to happen that often.

There is not a lot of room left up front for a cooler. The position of choice seems to be right behind the cab in a convenient location. Adding a decent size cooler there with a thermostatically controlled fan seems to work quite well for most that do it. I would upgrade the trans a bit before going that route as you are adding length to a system that depends on flow to function correctly. Adding length naturally needs added flow capability in the form of pressure at the source.

A more complex but effective system would be adding a seprate pump, cooler, and lines with the pan as the source and destination.

 

[cerberusiam]

I suspect a lot of the failures of the heat exchangers are due to work being done on the lines connecting them. If one is not careful tightening and loosening the connections on the body of the exchanger itself it would be easy to crack the internal lines on them. There is no direct correlation but a few I have talked to people about have happened after replacing a line for one reason or another. A coincidence or ????



Really, with all the trucks on the road with the heat exchangers on them you don't hear about massive numbers of failures. Not anywhere near the number of inector failures, water pump failures, etc, etc. That has to mean something. A failure is definitely painful and expensive because it does require a trans rebuild in most cases, but, it doesn't seem to happen that often.



There is not a lot of room left up front for a cooler. The position of choice seems to be right behind the cab in a convenient location. Adding a decent size cooler there with a thermostatically controlled fan seems to work quite well for most that do it. I would upgrade the trans a bit before going that route as you are adding length to a system that depends on flow to function correctly. Adding length naturally needs added flow capability in the form of pressure at the source.



A more complex but effective system would be adding a seprate pump, cooler, and lines with the pan as the source and destination.

 

[mwilson]

I suspect a lot of the failures of the heat exchangers are due to work being done on the lines connecting them. If one is not careful tightening and loosening the connections on the body of the exchanger itself it would be easy to crack the internal lines on them. There is no direct correlation but a few I have talked to people about have happened after replacing a line for one reason or another. A coincidence or ????



Really, with all the trucks on the road with the heat exchangers on them you don't hear about massive numbers of failures. Not anywhere near the number of inector failures, water pump failures, etc, etc. That has to mean something. A failure is definitely painful and expensive because it does require a trans rebuild in most cases, but, it doesn't seem to happen that often.



There is not a lot of room left up front for a cooler. The position of choice seems to be right behind the cab in a convenient location. Adding a decent size cooler there with a thermostatically controlled fan seems to work quite well for most that do it. I would upgrade the trans a bit before going that route as you are adding length to a system that depends on flow to function correctly. Adding length naturally needs added flow capability in the form of pressure at the source.



A more complex but effective system would be adding a seprate pump, cooler, and lines with the pan as the source and destination.

Another vote for damage caused by a line replacement!!!!



It takes several trys to find an open end wrench with just the right angle so that you can wiggle it up thru from the bottom to hold the back up nuts made to the cooler.



f you just start twisting the nut on the line without a back up wrench as I suspect some have done it is going to put a stress fracture in that cooler.



It will bite you in the arse later on.



Mike.

 

[FParisi]

I had the heat exchanger removed from my old '95 + the trans. ran considerably cooler. It seemed to me that most of the time the exchanger was heating the fluid from engine coolant temp. Also it did sit right under the turbo.

I did add a cooler with a manual fan switch right behind the driver under the bed.

 

[S.Morris]

+1 on what Mike said.

 

[softailer]

Like you I have a 2003 2wd 2500

Like you, I have a 2003 2500 HD 2wd. My transmission cooler just went south and took a newly rebuilt trans with it. I have learned the hard way that it pays to treat the coolant with an electrolosis treatment to prevent this sort of thing. When the coolant mixes with the trans fluid it is the end of you transmission! Took it Garmon Trans for a fresh rebuild & new cooler with new lines. Expensive education!!! But that seems to be my M. O. lately...

 

[TCDiesel]

The front Auxiliary cooler has internal spring operated Thermostat,the Default position is open (By passing the cooler) So if you remove it and plug it correctly the bypass will be stopped, You can remove the heat exchanger (Primary cooler) But YOU must mod the Auxiliary Bypass, Now You cannot remove the Primary cooler (Heat exchanger) if you live in 30* or lower temps,this will cause a P7100 condition and the life of the transmission will be shorten and in -0 temps you will Not have factory lockup for miles.

 

[BlackBullit]

Like you I have a 2003 2wd 2500
Like you, I have a 2003 2500 HD 2wd. My transmission cooler just went south and took a newly rebuilt trans with it. I have learned the hard way that it pays to treat the coolant with an electrolosis treatment to prevent this sort of thing. When the coolant mixes with the trans fluid it is the end of you transmission! Took it Garmon Trans for a fresh rebuild & new cooler with new lines. Expensive education!!! But that seems to be my M. O. lately...

Just wondering what the electrolosis treatment is?

 

[softailer]

That is what I am fixing to try to find out. I was told that the product is sold by NAPA for Powerstroke engines. I'll keep you posted on my findings...

 

[cerberusiam]

Just wondering what the electrolosis treatment is?

Yeah, that was my thoght. Since electrolosis needs a current to operate it doesn't make a lot of sense that an additive would do this.

Since he did reference the PS engines it is likely he is talking about the SCA's to address caviatation in a wet sleeved engine. Not sure that would makie a difference in the heat echanger because it is not under the same stresses that cause cavitation problems.

 

[Bob4x4]

Following the factory recommended coolant change intervals will protect against electrolysis .
If you want an easy way to check your coolant use a voltmeter. The heat exchangers usually fail due to rough handling or vibration or high surge pressures

 

[Bob4x4]

There was a recall on 03s to replace a solid metal line to one with a section of rubber line to help

 

[CTRice]

Hi Guys. I have not been on the website for quite a while. My issue may or may not be the same one being discussed here, but here goes. Last year, I developed a trans fluid leak near the turbo under the truck. It was caused by failing hoses and/or clamps. I obtained the new suggested hoses and clamps and proceeded to change them out. It was a miserable job to say the least. No clearance for any type of wrenches I had in my tools. I was finally able to modify a couple of old oddball wrenches to fit. I completed the job and all seemed fine. A few months later I began noticing that the trans. temp. readout on my BD Diesel X-Monitor was showing higher temperatures than before. The other day, I was in slow moving traffic near a shopping center for about 15 minutes. At the end of the traffic jam, my X-Monitor indicated a trans. temp. of 183deg f. Considering the ambient temp was 47deg f. should I be concerned that I damaged any part of the transmission cooling system?? My truck is an '06 3500 SRW Quad Cab. with 70k miles. It also has a Mag-Hytec DD Trans. Pan.

Any advice or guidance the forum could provide is greatly appreciated as I do not want to trash a transmission. Thanks, Chuck

 

[cerberusiam]

Hi Last year, I developed a trans fluid leak near the turbo under the truck. It was caused by failing hoses and/or clamps.

There are no transmission lines close to the turbo. You likely fixed the coolant leak from the fitting back of the turbo on the block.

my X-Monitor indicated a trans. temp. of 183deg f. Considering the ambient temp was 47deg f. should I be concerned that I damaged any part of the transmission cooling system??

That temp is normal and expected. Slow moving in traffic will drive the temp up even on cold days. Until it goes over 220 degrees its of no concern.

 

[Bob4x4]

Possibly 2nd gen,cooler behind turbo on block