Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission Gurus/Advice required....Dying fast

[DaveN]

I stopped for fuel today on the way to pick up my dad's tractor. Went to get back on the highway, got on the ramp and started to accelerate. First to second felt strange, but I didn't realize what was going on until second to third, it was floating between gears, in typical worn out slushbox style rolling into gear. So I let off, looked at the dash to check for idiot lights (none), and noticed the gear shift lever was between neutral and drive. Put this in it's proper position, and started to accelerate again. Got up to about 70, and it didn't want to shift into overdrive. I let off a little bit coasted for a hundred feet or so then it went into overdrive. Drove it at seventy for a couple miles or so, got off on a ramp and got back on to see if it would do it again. This time, no slush, just the shift points were about 300 RPM higher than usual, with an extra firm shift, much harder than usual. Stopped to check transmission fluid, level is ok, it smells burnt, starting to turn brownish and has quite a few chunks of friction material floating around. Drove up to my dad's (another 50 miles or so) and it drove fine, locked up in overdrive etc etc. I left the truck there for now (since I needed the tractor and didn't want to push my luck towing) and was shamed into driving it back with his <choke> Chevy. The embarrasment is overwhelming. I feel so... . dirty... .



Anyways, the truck has 70K miles on it, 98% highway at 80 mph. I have a leadfoot, truck has no mods, bone stock. I changed the transmission fluid at about 58K. Checked it 5k miles ago and it was fine, no smell, nice red color, no crud. When I pulled the pan to change the fluid/filter there was a very small amount of debris on the magnet, maybe half the size of a dime? Based upon my previous experience, this is normal and looked fine.



I'm not sure what happened, but based on my previous experiences with brown burnt fluid with lots of floaties a rebuild is in order. I don't know if something got confused when the shifter was between neutral and drive and it got hot (I don't think so but who knows) or if something just gave out or what.



Questions:



1. Anyone have any idea what happened?



2. I'd like to upgrade my transmission on the rebuild, I don't think I need any of the super duty trannies some of you bombed guys run, but I'd definitely like to beef it up, something that would handle a leadfoot driver, occasional towing (6~8k pounds) at 75 mph and maybe a power edge EZ. Thoughts?



3. Anyone know of a good transmission shop in the Lansing/Ann Arbor/Jackson area of Michigan?



Thanks in advance for any input guys



Dave

 

[LSMITH]

Sounds like it is toast. You have a superb transmission guy in your backyard, well almost your back yard. Get in touch with Greg at Great Lakes Diesel Works, he can set you up with a transmission that will work so much better than stock it will blow your mind. He posts here as LSFarm, PM him.

 

[Ajwalls]

Dave- Were you getting any kind of shuttering prior to all of this happening? If so you may have a bad torque converter, and those small pieces could be coming from the flanges that lock into place.



Neverless, it does sound like you may want to contact ATS or look at Suncoast for help with a stronger torque converter.



A good one will run about $ 3,000 to $ 3,500 (out the door) with valve body, torque commander and billet converter. The you are set for some nice hauling. Good luck!



2001, 4x4, Patroit Blue, Club Cab, Auto Trans, 3- Gauge Piller post

(Tans. temp, TB, EGT) Fuel Pressure Gauge (Steer. column mount) BD Exhaust Brake, AFE Cone, 4" Ehaust, Edge, towing HR 28' TT.

 

[BillGotthelf]

Burnt fluid usually comes from two problem areas-the clutch packs themselves or the TC. Either way you need a rebuild-might as well do it right. All the major companies build good tranies. Find someone near to you to do the work-take LSMITH's advice.