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Archived transmission issues- wont shift to higher gears

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Truck ran great the weekend before. Went to go hunting today and the truck would not shift above 2nd gear. Truck is an automatic. Not sure what is going on with it. Truck only has 86,000 miles and have not pulled anything heavy with it other than airstream trailer occassionally.
This transmission issue just occurred with no indications something was wrong.
Has anyone else had a similar issue with the transmission?

I sure don't want to buy a transmission but if I need a new transmission I would like to go with a 6 speed manual rather than fix the weak stock transmission. Anyone attempted this fit from auto to manual and what brainpain/$$ would I be looking at? 2001 dodge 2500
 
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In addition to the output shaft speed sensor, the gov pressure solenoid and transducer will cause issues like this. You can replace 1 at a time or just put all three in a see if that fixes it.
 
Thanks for the info. I had no idea where to start.
I just took the truck out and when I lift my foot from the gas the trans then will go to the next gear. The issue seems to be getting if from first then to the next gears. Once it gets to the next gears it runs good.
I will start replacing those parts and get the transmission fluid flushed also.
 
I just took the truck out and when I lift my foot from the gas the trans then will go to the next gear. The issue seems to be getting if from first then to the next gears. Once it gets to the next gears it runs good.
Have you ever had the bands adjusted? This is supposed to be done along with a fluid and filter change every 30,000 miles, or 15,000 miles when towing.

I ask because the symptoms you describe are CLASSIC when the front band is out of adjustment… either loose from wear or the apply strut has fallen out. If you have an INCH POUND (not foot pound) torque wrench and are handy with tools, you can adjust the bands yourself. A complete description of the procedure can be found HERE.

As cerberusiam suggested, you can also start by replacing the output shaft speed sensor because it's a $12-$20 part available at any auto parts store and literally takes 5 minutes to do. But more than likely it's the front band that needs adjusting.

Please let us know how things work out.

Good luck,

John L.
 
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Truck ran great the weekend before. Went to go hunting today and the truck would not shift above 2nd gear. Truck is an automatic. Not sure what is going on with it. Truck only has 86,000 miles and have not pulled anything heavy with it other than airstream trailer occassionally.

This transmission issue just occurred with no indications something was wrong.

Has anyone else had a similar issue with the transmission?



I sure don't want to buy a transmission but if I need a new transmission I would like to go with a 6 speed manual rather than fix the weak stock transmission. Anyone attempted this fit from auto to manual and what brainpain/$$ would I be looking at? 2001 dodge 2500



I'd start by retrieving the codes.

turn key from off to on 3 times and they should show in the odo window.

I agree the place to start is the sensors. The speed sensor is on the bottom of the od or extention housing and is a $15 part.

The others are on the valve body and will cost $200-$250.

Does 2nd gear hold it when you get it to shift?
 
Haven't had bands adjusted since I owned truck- 2nd owner, and i don't believe previous owner had that work done. After church this morning I will try to replace the speed sensor first and see if that fixes the issue.
There are no dash warning lights on but I will cycle the key and see if any codes appear.
 
I ask because the symptoms you describe are CLASSIC when the front band is out of adjustment… either loose from wear or the apply level has fallen out.



You are correct that the band adjustment needs checked, but the symptoms are not indicative of a band problem. The first sentence of his post says it won't shift PAST 2nd gear. That generally means the band is adjusted close to correctly and the lever is in place.



If it was going to high rpms to shift to 2nd or skipping completely I would agree 100%. If it is going into 2nd and it doesn't feel sloppy it is usually something else.



I hadn't mentioned it, but, one of the symptoms of the lack of a 2-3 shift is smoked direct clutch pack. Didn't want to raise the spectre of a trans rebuild just yet cuz the electronic pieces will simulate the symptoms. :)
 
appears my other postst have not made it on here.

I was wrong last night the trans is not shifting from first to second gear. when lifting my foot from accelerator it then shifts to second and from there seems to be fine. reverse works well.
I replaced the trans speed sensor and no change in performance.

i now just tried to adjust the front band and the torque screww goes flush with trans frame before tensioning. the torque nut would not have any thread to hang onto at point. not sure what to do now.

?????what next
 
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Likely the front band is completely done. The set screw going down that far is not a good thing.



You can drop the valve body and get to the band strut and band to check it. The flex bands, which I think your has, will bend the tabs and loosen to where they cannot be adjusted or the strut will bend. If that all looks good you should be able to see the band and drum it rides on to tell if its bad.



Unfortunately, its drop the trans and pull the front of it apart to replace the band.
 
The torque screw kept on tightening and seemed like it would have dropped into the trans if I kept turning so I stopped. You believe I should have felt some sort of resistance as I turned the torque screw? There was absolutely no resistance. I took truck for a test drive and it wants to stay in first unless I bump up rpms and lift foot from accelerator.
Looks like I am going to need to find a lift to work on this trans.
 
The torque screw kept on tightening and seemed like it would have dropped into the trans if I kept turning so I stopped. You believe I should have felt some sort of resistance as I turned the torque screw? There was absolutely no resistance. I took truck for a test drive and it wants to stay in first unless I bump up rpms and lift foot from accelerator.
Looks like I am going to need to find a lift to work on this trans.
Take heart, you're not the first one this has happened to!

The next thing to do is remove the transmission pan and see if the front band apply strut may have fallen out. The front band apply strut can come loose and fall into the pan if the front band is not adjusted regularly. If this has happened, you should be able to easily reinstall it by removing the valve body to gain access to the underside of the front drum. There's no need to drop the transmission or do any other major surgery. You'll likely need to back off on the front band adjusting screw to get the apply strut back in place. Be sure to check the front band anchor wedge on the opposite end to make sure it's still in place.

This is a picture of the underside of the front drum and the apply strut being insterted into place:

#ad


If when you drop the pan you don't find the apply strut and instead you find chunks of metal, then you could be dealing with a broken front band which will require a transmission overhaul. If you do find the apply strut but it's bent, do not attempt to straighten it... buy a reinforced replacement part which looks like this:

#ad


Here's what the anchor wedge looks like:

#ad


Best regards,

John L.
 
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Gentlemen, Thank you all for the great info and advice it is very much appreciated.
I will pull the trans pan tomorrow and confirm if the band components have dropped loose. It will probably be a good time to adjust rear band since pan will be off.
will post info tomorrow am.
 
A transmission jack on the floor works fine also. Done a lot like that over the years.



If you can't feel the screw tighten down th eband strut probably has fallen out. Its a typical thing if the band gets too loose.
 
Update: today I removed the trans pan and found the anchor wedge in the bottom. close inspection revealed a crack where the dowel or pin fits into the wedge had been cracked.
I am now preparing to remove valve body. Any hints on how to remove the valve body without screwing something up ?
 
Just got it out. Thanks Landry.
dang. I can see why transmission work is so darn expensive.
Front band is intact except for the small wedge shaped thing a bob that fell out in the trans pan.
I am sure the next hardest step is finding this small shaped wedge part.
Would a normal auto parts store have this piece?
 
Just got it out.
Congratulations!



I am sure the next hardest step is finding this small shaped wedge part.

Would a normal auto parts store have this piece?
I'm not sure if a local auto parts store would have it... doubtful... but you can buy it online HERE from Transmission Parts USA. I've ordered from them several times and had fast service with excellent prices.



It's possible a local transmission shop might stock it.



John L.
 
vahunters,



If you do wind up ordering that Power Wedge from Transmission Parts USA, you really should also buy a Governor Pressure Solenoid and a Governor Pressure Sensor and replace those too since you already have the valve body out. They will fail at some point and Murphy's Law suggests that'll be shortly after you get your transmission back together!



The parts you need are:



Governor Pressure Solenoid



Governor Pressure Sensor



And if you *really* want to be proactive, this item fails also, but not as often as the above items:



3rd to 4th gear (Overdrive) Shift Solenoid
 
Just got it out. Thanks Landry.

dang. I can see why transmission work is so darn expensive.

Front band is intact except for the small wedge shaped thing a bob that fell out in the trans pan.

I am sure the next hardest step is finding this small shaped wedge part.

Would a normal auto parts store have this piece?



The band anchor is the wedge shaped piece that goes on the adjusting screw. The band strut is usually laying on top of the VB.



Go to PATC and order the updated billet band strut and anchor if you can't source it locally. You don't want the cheap OE stuff back in there.
 
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