Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transmission lines rubbing

[tgrfan2]

At 243K I found a fluid leak on my 95 automatic. I found the two cooler lines had rubbed together in front of the pan toward the driver's side. All the clamps and line clips appear to be in the right places, but they were showing wear over about a 3 inch long area and a pin hole developed.

I hope this post might keep someone else from having the same problem occur.

I hope I can fix it without completely removing the line, but if I can't has anyone had any experience with what appears to be a quick coupler end near the cooler on the driver side front?

 

[Joe G.]

Yep, been there, done that, got ATF in my hair to prove it. All the steel lines are at the dump somewhere and buried with the other stinking stuff like they should be. The lines are all hydraulic hose now. No more drips and other stupidity. Only one line crosses over between the engine and the transmission pan. The other goes to the front on opposite side of the engine from the orignal path.

 

[Skydiver]

That same place started leaking on mine 2 years ago @ 160k.



I just recently repaired the plastic return fuel line inches above the tank. It rubbed the frame. Thats the 2nd time I've had to raise the bed. Fuel guage was 1st.

 

[Howard Durand]

I used some short pieces of the new 1/2" plastic residential water line, (I think it is called PEX) to slip over the lines at various places to prevent metal to metal contact. They are easy to split and install and appear to withstand the heat. This tubing is either red or blue. I tried some of the grey tubing but it softens up with the heat.

As to the leak, I would try to patch it if possible or cut out the weakened section, put in a new piece of line and re-connect it with compression fittings that are suitable for steel tubing.

 

[JFaughn]

I had one rub through , against the breather tube , aluminizes steel is what they are made of , that figure's from , dodge holes , this is not a common in the the market , so you can not just make some up , without changing like others have posted .
I found that 1/2 copper tubing [ not pipe , tubing comes in coils & is flexible ] with compression fittings work .

 

[JoeBioDiesel]

I had one rub through just in front of the pan, and then most recently at the clamp alongside the engine oil pan. After some deliberation I decided if the original ones laster over 200K miles, I'd replace them with OEM lines. This time I made sure they didn't hit each other and added rubber bushings to the metal clamps. For what they cost, I hope they outlast the truck.

Joe

 

[ndurbin]

Been there done that and like Joe. G got the ATF in my hair.



I've had luck with using a section of heater hose and hose clamps to band aid fix the leak if your in a pinch. But not something you'd want to run for an extended period of time.



I went back with steel lines w/ the upgraded connectors this last go round and wrapped the entire length of the lines with 1/2" heater hose to prevent rubbing.

 

[tgrfan2]

A local company did not have a swivel to fit the threaded cooler end, but they cut the pipe near that end,attached a swivel connector there to new Goodyear hose the length of the rest of the pipe and sold me three clamps for $24. They did it while I waited too! The dealer wanted $50 for the wrong pipe(too short) and $80 for the foot long hose with quick connect end.

I found some good rubber covered clamps at Lowes to secure it.