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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Transmission Question...47RE

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I have had my 2000 2wd CTD since last Feb. I have just over 50K on the clock. I have a couple of questions that I would like to ask the membership.



1) I had to leave the truck for nearly 6 weeks, during which time it was not run. When I returned to the truck it started instantly and I let it idle for a minute or so to stabilize everything. I put transmission in drive and nothing happened. I moved to reverse and still nothing, other than a faint bump. I moved selection lever back and fore and after three or four cycles the transmission began to work. Is this normal? I have had a number of vehicles with auto transmissions and never had this symptom when the fluid levels were at normal levels, as is the case here. I have noticed in the warm weather that the trans temp can get up to 240 deg if I am stuck in traffic on a hill. This is with an empty bed. The P. O. may have towed a trailer as there is a B-D exhaust-brake installed and a Torq-loc in addition to a heavy duty hitch and wiring. I have not talked to PO.



2) I installed a fuel pressure guage, a Westach 0-30 psi, and at idle I get 13-14psi and under full acceleration it drops to 5 or 6 and then rises back up to about 10-12. Is there any need for concern with these numbers? I put in a new Stratopore fuel filter at the same time.



3) I changed the oil and filter the other day and had aterrible job getting the filter off. Also I had to get a breaker-bar to undo the pan plug. PO always had truck serviced at the dealers. What is the deal with putting on the filter so tight? I have never had to put on a filter more than hand-tight, and have always been able get it off by hand. Same goes for the oil plug... . just moderately tight with a 9 or 10 inch ratchet. Anyway, while I was struggling with the filter I had to remove the large air-hose from the air cleaner to the turbo inlet. I noticed that the bellows FROM the turbo to the air-charge cooler was not on correctly and there was a large pucker where the clamp had not caught it and I assume that large quantities of pressurised air was leaking and never making it to the inlet manifold. It seemed that the performance was markedly improved, but you know how it after you change the oil... . the vehicle seems to run better and be smoother!! I always felt that it ran out of steam earlier than it should have, and I just thought it was hitting the governor. Could the above situation have anything to do with the pyrometer reading pretty high for no particularly good reason?? All I ever had on the truck is an 8' camper running at sea-level and with a moderate rise in elevation, the pyrometer climbed up to nearly 1200 deg and I couldn't stay in O/D.



My apologies for this getting more involved than I expected. I have never owned a vehicle that I liked so much from the very start, nor one that has raised so many questions. I purchased an extended warrantee when I bought the truck, and if the transmission is iffy then I want to have it dealt with before it strands me in the middle of nowhere.



Thanks for your input.



Ian
 
Question no. 1 , is answered this way.

When the trans sits for long periods, it can drain the torque converter back into the pan. This is not uncommon for many other brands also.

This drain back is not a serious problem but it is annoying.

To solve the issue a little knowledge is needed.

The trans does not fill the converter in park. Start the Cummins and then place the shift lever into neutral for 30- 45 seconds. The trans can be modified to fill in park. A simple modification, but the VB must come out.



Question no 2, you need to replace the lift pump. The injection pump needs a minimun of 8 lbs at full load/rpm to survive. It is ok if you wait , but don't pull it .



Question 3 , the Cummins will vibrate a filter off, so most guys make sure it is tight. I find it really doesn't need to be tightened with a wrench, just a good grip. The oil plug seems to tighten itself. Many guys report this same issue. Be glad it goes tighter and not looser!!
 
Transmission questions...

Thanks for your response. I kind of wondered about the "in park" situation, as the transmission fluid level has to be checked in neutral. I have an older Dodge truck too, but I have never noticed the same condition with it, and it sits for months on end. It, too needs to be checked in N. My previous car was a Mercury Mountaineer and I would leave that for up to 3 months without a problem. A model 12 B-W transmission I had never did it either.

What do you think about the trans temperature situation? Is not 240 deg with no load too high? Might that not be due to slipping? The fluid color os okay, but I have no idea what fluid is in there... whatever the Dodge dealer installed. Also the Pyrometer reading of nearly 1200 deg seems a little extreme considering the load of a max of 3000 lbs. The pyro is post turbo.



I've talked to CTD owners who claim to run all day at 75 mph in O/D hauling a 30' 5th wheel at 14 mpg!!?? Are they all liars or just dreamers?



Thanks again,



Ian
 
Transmission questions...

In addition to the above, with respect to the fuel pressure: Is the dealer going to accept the readings of MY guage and is the 100k warrantee from DC still in effect? Is it worth the bother to mess with them, or should I just get a new pump from Cummins and install it myself? I was out today and I was careful to read pressure at wot and it was 4 psi, although about 10-11 psi at 70 mph, no load.



Thanks,



Ian
 
Torqueflites have convertor drainback and do not pump fluid when in Park. Both of these issues are corrected with the Transgo reprogramming kit.



The kit also firms and quickens shifts, reducing slippage and resulting friction heat The kit also increases holding power of locking clutches. Best $100 you can spend for a long life and better driving characteristics of your truck.



Transgo 518/tfod is the one you want. I got mine on ebay for @ $95
 
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