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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) transmission Rebuild

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Turbo Sputter?

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Traction Bars

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Well it has been some time since my truck broke down and I have been working on the 47rh. When I was taking it apart a couple weeks ago I found that the direct hub had broken right were it connects to the input shaft. I have also found many other warn or messed up parts. When it was opened up the front planetary gears had some broken teeth inner splined section, rear planetary gears around the outside were worn bad, and driving shell was mushrooming at edges of the teeth.



When I was putting in the Transgo shift kit I found my 3-4 accumulator spring was broken (since i bought this truck i had a problem shifting, you could not stay on the pedal hard, the truck would not shift from 2-3 or 3-4 under hard acceleration). The best part of all of this is when I bought the truck the transmission had been rebuilt. I am the 3rd owner of this truck and the last owner who I am friends with, even after rebuild, had the same shifting problem as me. All this tells me is that it was a crappy job done on the transmission were ever it was sent to be done.



Now for the good part, since the transmission is out I am putting a Mojave Green Torque Converter in www.mojave-green.com. This torque converter is custom built with a CNC steel billet front cover. The stall speed has been modified about 400rpm lower than stock in to maximize the Cummins power curve potential. They replace the stock plastic stator washer and install a heavy duty Torrington bearing. This converter is for heavy duty tow vehicles, off-road, and performance giving stronger low end pulling power, improved fuel economy, maximum strength, and reliability. All that for about $640+ shipping, much less then other companies. I also have a Transgo TFOD shift kit with a TC locking switch. Ill post some pics later.
 
Fluid?

I have been thinking about the fluid I will use, it used to have regular fluid now I want to go with some Amsoil. If I got the transmission together then drove it for a week and then changed the fluid again, to make sure there the inside is clean, could I go from regular to synthetic or would I have to empty the fluid lines, torque converter, and so on? Would it just be easier to start with Amsoil and change it out after a week like I said?
 
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