Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transmission Rebuild

[WilsonF]

Well I am going to take the big step and rebuild my 47re, it has given me good service but has 200K on it and I’m changing the torque converter anyway. A few questions, any tip for removing the transmission? Spreading the frame rails, I’ve heard that it is a bugger to get the cross member out, any suggestions? How high do I have to have the truck to get the trans out from under it using a trans jack. I am going to have a guy do the overdrive section for me for $75 I have no way to compress the OD spring, I will do the rest, fingers crossed. I’ve read and read about what to put in it as far as rebuild kits but still not sure what I will do, any suggestion on that will be helpful. I’m not doing any H. P. mods so I’m looking for just better than stock rebuild. Already have the Transgo Diesel kit in the Valve body. So please, if you have any thoughts on this I will appreciate them.



Floyd

 

[JMcCoy]

I did mine in the driveway. I just backed it down to where the driveway meets the road, so I would get a little moore hight (from the dip caused by the angled driveway). I hed pleanty of room. I also have 2. 5" level kit and 35" tires.



I just banged mine out with a sledge bammer. Just tap it up and tap it forward or rearward (I can't remember). cross member install was easy. Just turn it sideways or upside down to get it started.



If your installing a double deep transmission pan, wait until it is installed to put it on. The deep pan will make the transmission taller. Besides, you don't want to scratch that beautiful pan that no one ever sees like I did.



I would also Loc-tite the converter/fly wheel bolts. Just something I would hate to deal with. An engine baring tool like the one sold at Geno's Garage would also help. I used an old Snap-On fly wheel turner that grips the teeth. It worked horribly. It works much better on a small block chevy than a cummins.



This would be the time to do the rear main seal and transfer case rear seal.



I would coat the drive shaft slip yoke with oil and store it inside while it is out. It will rust in a matter of hours. (high humidity in FL)



It is also a good time to replace the little transmission hoses and coolant hoses on the rear passenger side of the engine compart.



You have a project on your hands. I only did a swap. If you have the ability to rebuild the transmission, you've already got a head start on me. It should not be a big deal for you. Hope some of this helps. Good luck

 

[EWalshak]

ATSG has the best manuals. Transgo has a really good rebuild kit. Get the master rebuild kit (comes with steels as well as new clutches). I found it easier to remove the tranfer case first and then the trans seperately. I did not have to spread the frame rails until install. I just used a bottle jack turned sideways and cut a piece of 4x4 wood to make up the difference. Worked like a charm. If your truck has the check valve in the trans line up close to the radiator, get it out by drilling it. It keeps the trans fluid from draining back into the trans and will cause you to cook the planetary in the trans. Take your time. Get somewhere that you can lay out all the stuff as it comes out in an organized way so you can keep track of everything. They really are not as bad as most would think. My 2 cents.

 

[PToombs]

Spreading the frame; It makes life so easy you'll hate yourself trying to put it in without. I have a 4 ton Harbor Freight porta power I used. You can also use a small bottle jack and a 2x4 or 4x4, but you'll find an extra set of hands is helpful. Just push it about 1/2 an inch, and tap the crossmember out the back with a hammer.



My trans jack has a flat plate with holes, I didn't get any adapters or anything as I bought it used. I left the TC on the trans. I put the trans mount studs thru the rear holes in the plate and put the nuts on just so the stud was flush on the nut, then put a 2x4 on the front of the plate to the trans pan to level it. The unit sat perfect and was balanced nicely. I had the front up on tall (12ton) jackstands, and I could just get everything out together. I may have had to jack the side up 2-3 inches.



I also Loc-Tited the converter bolts, I think the FSM says to. I used a large screwdriver in the bottom inspection port to turn the engine over, I think it was easier than using the barring tool, and I have one.



I got my parts from PATC, it's PATC 46RE 47RE 48RE Transmissions, Performance Transmission A518, 518. I also got the upgraded governor pressure solenoid and cover unit, it was $138, but that's a known problem leakage area.



It sounds like you have most of the rest of it covered,

Good Luck!

 

[WilsonF]

Thanks for the information, it all helps.

Floyd

 

[WilsonF]

Transgo?

ATSG has the best manuals. Transgo has a really good rebuild kit. Get the master rebuild kit (comes with steels as well as new clutches). I found it easier to remove the tranfer case first and then the trans seperately. I did not have to spread the frame rails until install. I just used a bottle jack turned sideways and cut a piece of 4x4 wood to make up the difference. Worked like a charm. If your truck has the check valve in the trans line up close to the radiator, get it out by drilling it. It keeps the trans fluid from draining back into the trans and will cause you to cook the planetary in the trans. Take your time. Get somewhere that you can lay out all the stuff as it comes out in an organized way so you can keep track of everything. They really are not as bad as most would think. My 2 cents.

I went to the Transgo web site, couldn't find the rebuild kits. Have you got a link to a site that has them?



Floyd

 

[GrantP]

DTT is selling "do it yourself" rebuild kits now too. Just another option...

BUILD IT YOURSELF

 

[Erniek]

I just pulled and replaced my transmission and clutch, no need to spread the frame, i just used a 24 ounce ball peen hammer to tap the cross member rearward then down to remove, and then the opposite to reinstall. It was such a non issue, I cant imagine spending the money or time to "jack" the frame apart to remove the crossmember. Just my two cents worth.



Erik

 

[WilsonF]

Thanks for the responses. I can't imagen my 96 being any different than a 97 so that is good news.

Floyd

 

[PToombs]

How did you make out?

 

[WilsonF]

I haven't done it yet I started this post just before we left to visit my son in MD. Heading home tomorrow, hope to start the job soon.

Floyd

 

[guldam]

I wonder how hard it is to do a complete transmission rebuild and what tools you need?



I'll bet it's easy to screw it up, and have to take it out and try again.



GulDam

DTT is selling "do it yourself" rebuild kits now too. Just another option...



BUILD IT YOURSELF

 

[WilsonF]

I have read many many post and how to articles on do-it-yourself rebuilds. Yes you are right, it would be easy to screw up. But with the FSM and on line help and being very careful, it can be done. Many people on the forums have done it. And it may have to come back out to fix but when you compare the price savings I feel it is worth it. For the 47re (727 w/overdrive) the only special tools needed are for compressing the spring in the OD unit.

Floyd

 

[JMcCoy]

Please take some pictures for us if you tackle the project.

 

[PToombs]

I had the one in my 96 jeep done, $1200 from start to finish. He pulled it, rebuilt it, and installed it.

On my 95 1500 I pulled it, he rebuilt it, I installed it. $350 plus parts.

It had been almost 20 years since I had been in a dodge transmission, except for changing a filter every now and then. I just didn't have the money to pay someone to rebuild my 47RE, so I did it myself. The only thing I screwed up, it takes a special tool to measure the clearance on the OD for the piston, then you look at a chart which tells what spacer to use. I just said "it was good, it'll be good". It's not, it's too loose and slips into OD a little. It's better since I have the TV adjusted right, I had it way too tight and it slammed into 2nd and 3rd then slipped into OD. Now it's more even, and I'm not pulling it to get it corrected, unless when I change the filter in a few months it's full of crap.

 

[EWalshak]

They really are not that hard to rebuild. Ive done gm transmissions before and havent had a problem. I found a really good trans man in my area that is super reasonable with his prices. So good that its hard for me to take the time to do it myself. What would take me a week of evenings. He can have done in a few hours. I pull them out, He rebuilds them and I install them. He has done three for me in the past three yrs.

 

[fox]

You guys that are looking for a manual, without any doubt, the factory service manual is best.

I find many things left out of the ATSG manual. This is because they are ment for the trained tech.

 

[PToombs]

Except the FSM makes no mention of the 3/16 ball that falls out of the valve body. There are 3 sizes in there, 1 or 2 5/16", a bunch of 1/4 " and 1 that I'm pretty sure was 3/16". When I seperated the 1st section, it fell out and the book didn't say where it went. After tearing most of my hair out I found reference to it in the Transgo instructions.

I don't know what it does, but I bet it's in there for a reason!

 

[WilsonF]

OK, I got the trans out, the cross member was a piece of cake, just tapped it straight up and could move it back by hand. The OD unit is at the builders shop, I have no way to compress the spring. The rest of the trans is apart.

Floyd

 

[SMorneau]

Keep your fingers out of the torque converter bolt access hole when you are barring the engine over, no matter what method you are using. The bolts will come around and take your finger tips right off.