Transmission slipping?

[jwduke]

I went and got our camper today, and when I went to take off from a stop sign or stop light, it seems like I'm dragging my camper. Its like you really need to pour the coals to it to get it to start moving. The fluid has never been changed in the truck (45,000 mi). The fluid level is at the correct level, and looks nice and red. Should I change it? Does it need a band adjustment? Thanks in advance for any ideas!!!

 

[JLandry]

JW,



Your description makes it sound like the transmission might be starting out in 2nd gear. When that happens, it'll feel like your pulling a trailer from a standing start. Next time you drive it, count the number of shifts to make sure they're all there.



If it is starting out in 2nd, this is often caused by a faulty governor pressure sensor and / or governor pressure solenoid. These are relatively inexpensive easy to replace parts that are common failure points.



Be aware that the transmission fluid should've been replaced and the bands adjusted at 30,000 miles for normal operating conditions, or 15,000 under severe operating conditions such as towing.



Best regards,



John L.

 

[jwduke]

John,

I think you hit the nail square on the head! Thanks!!!

 

[brillmtb]

I just came back from a camping trip and now my transmission is acting weird. It seems to go from 1st to 2nd and then depending on the throttle input it seems to jump to 1st and does not shift at the RPM I would expect, like it is slipping, not shifting, flaring, I don't know. Didn't do it on the trip at all. Fluid is the proper level, no leaks. I did use AMSOIL and it does look a little darker red then I recall it looking when put in. No codes thrown. I have 165000 on the truck and just did the ball joints so I don't think I am that hard a driver.



How long do these trannies last, could it be the TQ, does the transmission have a feature that changes the shift pattern while I was towing and it just needs to adjust back to my normal driving? Does the darker red color imply something "burning" up. How would you all approach this? Thanks

 

[JLandry]

I just came back from a camping trip and now my transmission is acting weird.

I'm confused by the description of the symptoms.



Is it not shifting out of first gear?



Is it shifting through all the gears but not as it normally should?



What's the maintenance / service history of the transmission? Specifically, have the bands been adjusted per the recommended interval in the factory service manual?



Thanks,



John L.

 

[cerberusiam]

does the transmission have a feature that changes the shift pattern while I was towing and it just needs to adjust back to my normal driving?

No, there is no adjustment that would do that. You have what is commonly called shuttle shift. There can be several causes but the usual is the gov pressure not setting correctly for the throttle position, or, the gov pressure varying too far out of its normal range. This could be caused by a) TV cable setting and changes in TV pressure ramp b) APPS signal changing due to wear c) sticking gov solenoid d) invalid readings from pressure transducer.

If you have never changed the gov solenoid and transducer that would be the place to start if you cannot adjust it out with the TV cable adjustment.

 

[brillmtb]

I was told that there are no adjustments for bands in this transmission. I just found an article that seems to explain what I need to do.

It is holding 2nd to long under light throttle and hunting back between 2-3 I think. OD seems normal

The article said to go to Dodage and have them starscan it to display and record the requested and actual pressures for the governor solenoid. Then look at the pressures, 1-2 shift 28psi, 2-3 50psi and 3-4 95-128 psi. If not close then replace the governor solenoid and the governor pressure sensor.

The parts don't look that expensive, not sure what the dealer would charge to do the scan or if a local transmission shop has this tool and is cheaper.

What do you think. It looks like I can replace these parts by the pictures and even if a non dealer transmission shop did it should not be that much.

Any suggestions on the brand of parts to go with.

Thanks

 

[brillmtb]

Here is the link to where I found the info



http://www.dodgeownerforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=7526.0

 

[brillmtb]

I guess my other question is that I see "upgrade kits" that replace other things such as the following, should I get the whole kit if I am in there doing this

Governor Pressure Solenoid - Borg Warner Upgrade HD

Governor Pressure Transducer (Sensor) - Oem Mopar # 56028196AD

Lock-Up and Overdrive Solenoid With Harness - Rostra , Oem Reference # 52118500AB

Output Speed Sensor with O-Ring Installed - Oem Reference # 4800879

3-4 Accumulator Spring . 126" , Upgrade

Filter

Duraprene Pan Gasket (not cheap cork)

 

[cerberusiam]

Both the front and rear band are adjustable, if you haven't done adjusted them it needs done. The rear band is manual 1st and reverse only, unless you are having issues there don't mess with it. The front band is 2nd gear and usually the one that is problematic.

Here is the fix for the solenoid problems, the transducer can't be fixed because they are all cheaply made.

http://www.electricaladvantage.net/rehdsolenoidsensorkit00.aspx

 

[brillmtb]

Why the whole billet kit instead of just buying the borg warner solenoid as a separate item and putting into the stock location.

 

[cerberusiam]

The stock solenoid is problematic. This kit uses the GM style soelnoid that has almost no problems even in higher pressure scenarios.

 

[brillmtb]

It appears that both the aftermarket borg and this billet use the same solenoid the only difference is the billet housing.

 

[cerberusiam]

No, the Borg updated solenoid fits the stock housing and still wasn't that much beter. The GM style solenoid will not fit the OE gov housing.

 

[brillmtb]

I went to Cascade, same as electrical advantage. Spoke to the owner and he went through the different options and confirmed for my that there is a great chance that my symptoms are the gov solenoid. Given I have 168K on my truck I am going to replace the OD solenoid as well and leave the valve body alone for now. Apparently 168K is pretty good to not have had to do this work already?

 

[cerberusiam]

Yes, usually about 40k and they start having problems. The older solenoids were a lot better. Th enewer ones are junk.

 

[brillmtb]

I guess I should consider myself lucky, ball joints (put in carlie) and solenoid (will put in govn and OD) both at 169K? I wonder if the AMSOIL really did help vs hype. Perhaps lower temps, which is supposed to be what impacts the solenoids, which AMSOIL claims due to reduced friction really did extend the life even with my Smarty Jr set at towing mode. I am not that easy on the truck for sure.

 

[jwduke]

That's a good thought... did anyone get a longer life of of these sensors & solenoids, using a different transmission fluid, added cooling, or less than normal towing?

 

[jwduke]

John, your fix was dead on! Transmission shifts like new now. I checked the adjustment on the bands and they didn't seem to need to be adjusted. I added a deeper pan (2 additional qts of fluid), next project is a temp gauge. Not sure which is better for placement of the sending unit, in the line or the pan. Some transmission houses recommend the pan... . It WILL get changed at the next 30,000 mile interval. I did find that cerberusiam had a post in last quarter TDR that mention where to get the "improved" fix for this problem. So if it lasts 8 years, I'll be good! (Maybe!) Thanks for the input EVERYONE!!

 

[FourBarR]

Seems others have had poor luck with the auto in dodge trannies . Cant say I have my truck has 605,000 kms (375928k
Had gov and pressure sensor replaced at 550,000kms (341,000k) fluid changed and bands adjusted at 30,000 to 40,000 k with plus 4 fluid.