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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission still shifting funny, even after DTT's noise filter.

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:-{} I bought DTT's noise filter, and installed it. Adjusted the voltage at 0. 5 like it requires and is printed on the APPS. Between 30 and 40 mph. It still shifts up and down like the TC is locking an unlocking. Now it shifts hard into overdrive; and getting up to speed, takes a while to shift into overdrive. At around 50 mph, revs get up to about 2100 to 2400, then shifts into overdrive, then the revs drop to about 1800. I don't understand why it takes so long to shift. If I let off the throttle, it will shift. But I know this is not normal. Transmission fluid is fine and full. Thanks. :-{}
 
That sounds a bit like what mine was doing before I had to get it rebuilt. I am NOT saying that this is necessarily what you need to do. However, considering you tried the noise filter and tried the APPS reset, there might be something internally wrong with the transmission. Possible problems that I can think of (and I'm by no means an expert):

1. Torque converter slipping

2. Governor solenoid

3. Second gear band out of adjustment

4. Other valve body problems



Again, I'm only thinking out loud, don't necessarily assume the transmission is shot.



My advice is take the truck to someone who knows these transmission (read: not a Dodge dealer) and have them look at the internals, unless you know how to do this yourself.
 
keep in mind the PCM controls shift time

98. 5-2002 seem to have the same problems, OD takes awhile to shift just like you were describing a little hunting depending on speed



did you call Bill? what did he say?





Scott
 
DMendoza said:
Is there a way to fix the PCM or adjust it?

No.

With a note to PID programing, the Catcher "ECM" is altered. As such, anything is possible... .....

You may have problems with pressure regulation from the valve body.

If you don't have performance modifications you may be able to solve your problems with a new valve body. The call to DTT is probably your best bet for answers. Hunting of OD/TC/lockup with resistor installed is not a minor symptom but an indication of probable future failure.

Mike
 
How many miles on the transmission? I had a constant hunting problem and my final diagnoses was poor grounding of the APPS. I tapped the hole in the front of the APPS and ran a 14 guage wire from there to the negetive terminal on the battery and that has cured my problem for over a year. There is no indication of hunting and the transmission shifts just like the day I purchase the truck new. I would try that first.



By the way I have over 109000 miles on my truck.
 
DMendoza said:
:-{} I bought DTT's noise filter, and installed it. Adjusted the voltage at 0. 5 like it requires and is printed on the APPS. Between 30 and 40 mph. It still shifts up and down like the TC is locking an unlocking. Now it shifts hard into overdrive; and getting up to speed, takes a while to shift into overdrive. At around 50 mph, revs get up to about 2100 to 2400, then shifts into overdrive, then the revs drop to about 1800. I don't understand why it takes so long to shift. If I let off the throttle, it will shift. But I know this is not normal. Transmission fluid is fine and full. Thanks. :-{}



The size of capacitor used in the filter will affect when the shift occurs. Larger capacitor = delayed shift.

Sounds like your filter is working. You may want to try some contact cleaner and dielectric grease on the PCM contacts. Also bad brake switch/connection can cause convertor to unlock/lock.
 
How old are your batteries? This can contribute to this problem. When resetting the APPS did you disconnect the batteries overnight and then reset by turning the ignition on (not start) and slowly press the accellerator and release? Did you clean the ground wire connection under the passenger side battery?
 
I have 109000 on my truck it is 5. 5 years old and still has the factory batteries in it. I still say give the APPS a good ground to work with and your problems are over.
 
You might call Bill at DTT and ask his opinion.



Also, the APPS can be adjusted and they have directions on how to do this in the forum section. I did this about a year ago with Bill's help on the phone. It got my lockup engagaement right where I wanted it.



Dave
 
139K on the odometer. I tried to call Bill, he was'nt in. I 'll try tomorrow. Today i'm going to try the grounding on the APPS and turning the ignition on and pressing the pedal. I've already cleaned both my batteries and don't know how old they are, I got the truck in March. I'm getting 12. 5 volts out of my batteries and they hold a charge well, so there's no problem with them. I also read that by adjusting the voltage on the APPS, you can change the time of shift, lower voltage, the shorter time it takes between shifts. Is this right? Should I try lowering the voltage than what is on the APPS? Where on the APPS should I tap the hole for the ground? Thanks.
 
Fishin Guide said:
You might call Bill at DTT and ask his opinion.



Also, the APPS can be adjusted and they have directions on how to do this in the forum section. I did this about a year ago with Bill's help on the phone. It got my lockup engagaement right where I wanted it.



Dave



So tell me more about this APPS adjustment. I've heard of resetting it but never of adjusting it. Can this adjust what speed lockup happens at? Mine locks at right about 35ish mph, under normal throttle. And guess what most of my city driving speed limits are, so it is constantly locking unlocking because I have to travel right about this speed back and forth to work every day.
 
Rattlin_Ram said:
So tell me more about this APPS adjustment. I've heard of resetting it but never of adjusting it. Can this adjust what speed lockup happens at? Mine locks at right about 35ish mph, under normal throttle. And guess what most of my city driving speed limits are, so it is constantly locking unlocking because I have to travel right about this speed back and forth to work every day.



I'm having the same problem, but overdrive takes a while to kick in. I've read that somewhere in another thread. By changing the voltage higher or lower, will change the length of the shift; say, the higher the voltage, the longer it takes to shift. I don't know if this is right though, I'm gonna try to find that thread and I'll get back to it.

I did try T-tapping the ground on the APPS and routing it to the battery. It didn't work. It's frustrating me, but I'll keep trying whatever you guys help me with.
 
Remember the PCM may control the shifts, but it uses data from sensors in the transmission to decide when to shift. If your pressure sensor or the solonoid is bad it may be getting bad info and making your transmission shif poorly.



Instead of guessing call Bill again and ask. If not Bill call another DTT shop and they can help too. My DTT transmission took a "special" presure solonoid to make it work correctly.



John
 
I have been dealing with this problem since new, gradually makes the truck unusable on the highway. The latest ECM upgrade included a fix and seemed to reduce the rapid unlocking and locking of the converter, but I still need to clean the battery terminals every 6 months or so. Seems unlikely, but that always restores normal TC lockup operation for me. Other reported fixes probably include terminal cleaning.
 
Called Bill. He said it's usually not something mechanical in the transmission. Most likely it's something electrical, said I should follow all electrical connections (though it's a pain in the ***!) and clean them real well. Clean and add dielectric grease on all connectors and the one on the ECM on the side of the block. Asked about raising or lowering the voltage on the APPS to change shift times. Said it can a little, but should keep it set and the factory voltage. Also check cables slack and kickdown lever on side of transmission. So I'm going to do that and see what happens. Thanks. I'll let ya'll know what happens.
 
I am sure Bill can answer the voltage question in regards to the APPS. But all things being equal, it has the most input on when lockup occurs.



Now, that being said, there may be some interface between the solenoids and thier ability to alter shift points by changing fluid timing, but I am not sure.



Remember, the trans in these trucks is still basically the unchanged pressure based units of the old days. So, the TV cable or whatever we are calling it, has a huge affect on shift points. This cable has to be set correctly before diagnosing shift issues.



And, it seems I am hearing lockup and shifting veing used interchangeably. They are not. A shift is a physical change of gear. Either 1-2 2-3 3-2 you get the idea. Lockup is not a shift! It is controlled by the PCM and provides a signal to the convertor to lockup.



So, if you had second gear starts, I would say it's the solenoids or you have too much pressure in the stock fluid system. If you are getting lock/ unlock, I would lean to that being an electrical issue. Exaclty what the noise filter helps to prevent. But everything else has to be right.



BTW, my truck is setup to go into lockup at about 40mph. Most of our local roads are 35mph, so it only goes into lockup if I lean into it or speed up. This was done with the APPS.



So, get the base settings correct before continuing. Check everything out. I would make sure the fluid is new and full. Adjust the bands. Check and adjust the TV cable. Then take for a ride and try to get reproducable issues.



Then call Bill. You'll make it easier on yourself and him. :D



Dave
 
I wasn't able to get decent shifting until the APPS was set to almost 1 volt. Locks at a little over 45 OD on and the exhaust brake works right. Try increasing the volts to about . 7
 
The APPS has a 5v input and the output back to PCM. The output will be . 5 to 1 volt depending on how it is set. KOEO,Key on engine off, measure votages at the APPS. Best way to set is remove it and elongate , carefully, the mounting holes. Reinstall and rotate the housing to get voltage. This way the throttle linkage doesn't have to be changed. On 24v the calibration should be done after setting.

On a 12v the APPS really only is used for the trans and no cal is needed. setting the APPS is important on 24v since it is used in the PCM for alot more, like injector time on.
 
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