Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission time

[PTulkop]

Hey I would just like to take a second and introduce my self, I am new to the forum and I own a 1999 dodge ram Cummins 24 valve diesel and it has about a 112,000 miles on it and it runs perfect except for Ive been expirencing some transmission trouble latley so heres my questions to you guys/gals...



Well the promblem is the truck wile driving usually when makind a three point turn or something of the nature I will put the truck into gear and it will be in neautral basically it feels like the converter isnt locking up but latley the truck has been starting to do it when Im normal driving once in a while



So my first question is does anyopne know if its anything other than a torque converter?



My second question is WHat are my options on torque converters if it is one I am looking to eventually increase the horse power in the truck so I understand that I would have eventaully needed to replace it anyway???



My thrid question how hard and is it possible and about how much $$$ would it be to convert my truck to six speed????

 

[bmoeller]

Welcome to the TDR.



1. Is it shifting into first after coming to a stop on its own, or do you have to manually pull it dow into 1st gear? If it will manually, but not on its own, it may be the governor pressure sesor or the governor pressure solenoid. I had to do the same on my stock valvebody. It is a simple job to do. You do need to drop the pan and remove the valvebody to get at them.



2. If you plan on turning up the power, I'd get a full built aftermarket transmission, not just a valvebody and torque convertor upgrade. It will buy you some time, but won't go the distance in the end. As the saying goes, "Pay me now, or pay me later. "



You can see what is in my sig. Very happy with it. Have almost 9-10k on this new transmission. Can't slip this one. www.gbtransmissions.com if you are interested in their transmission. A built Goerend transmission and TC is less than a 5 or 6 spd swap, unless you have someone who wants to do a swap with you. I have considered the do the same before buying the built auto. Money and time ahead. If you want a price on my transmission, PM me, or better yet, talk to Dave Goerend yourself.

 

[DieselRam30]

I would definitely go with an aftermarket trans as well. You'll need it eventually anyway. See sig for manufacturer of my trans. Very happy with the trans. There are many options available to the diesel owner. The best method is to call the various companies and ask lots of questions. PM for a more detailed description, etc. of DTT.

 

[Lsfarm]

If I follow you

If I follow your post it sounds like the truck runs fine most of the time down the road, but will act like it isn't staying engaged when you stop or turn abruptly. This is almost always caused by low ATF level.



The dipstick for the auto trans is very hard to read correctly. One side of the stick will often show that it is full, but the other side will show low. Believe the low side. Check the level with the engine idleing in neutral and read both sides of the stick, and it is better to be a little overfull than under.



The shallow stock trans pan doesn't have any excess capacity, so if it is even half a quart low, the fluid will slosh away from the filter durring hard acceleration, cornering, or stops. Then the trans pump sucks air and the trans has no fluid pressure to hold the clutches engaged and the trans will act like it is in neutral. .



So check your ATF level !! it may be a very simple easy fix.



Hope this helps, Greg L

 

[IC Smoke]

Where are you from PTulkub?

Do a search of DTT, ATS, Suncoast Transmissions in the forums and you will find TONS of information!!



Maybe invest in a Mag Hy-tec double deep pan?



geno's garage will get you everything you need!!



Ian

 

[Hahn007]

The dipstick for the auto trans is very hard to read correctly. One side of the stick will often show that it is full, but the other side will show low. Believe the low side. Check the level with the engine idleing in neutral and read both sides of the stick, and it is better to be a little overfull than under.

It has been my experience that when one side of the stick reads lower than the other side the fluid level is still low. I have gone round and round with this very thing. If you start adding fluid a half a quart at a time with the transmission in neutral you will find the low side of the stick starts to raise to match the high side and eventually give the correct reading. I believe this problem is caused by the dipstick being "shrouded" by the transmission case.



Having the fluid level too high can cause problems as well. When the fluid heats up and expands it will come into contact with the rotating parts and become aerated. This can be just as damaging as a low fluid level. The level should be neither too low nor too full, it should be within the "safe" boundary indicated on the dipstick.

 

[Lsfarm]

The Problem

The problem with the dipstick reading is that the top side of the stick drags across the end of the tube as it is pulled/pushed in and out past the 30* bend at the end of the tube. The bottom of the stick doesn't touch the tube except at the very tip.



The fluid level necessary to reach rotating parts is well above the zig-zag in the dip stick. It is much better to be a 1/4" over full than a 1/4" low especially with the stock pan. With a 'bombed' truck or when climbing a steep grade, the acceleration is strong enough to have a majority of the ATF slosh to the rear of the pan, and to not drain back from the OD. The result is barely-maintained line pressures. Add a low fluid level and soon shifting and holding clutches engaged problems crop up.



An aftermarket deeper/higher capacity pan is a very good idea for our transmissions, and every trans I do gets one.



Hope this helps, Greg L.