Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission Upgrades? Tq Converter, Valve Body?

[Doughboy21kd]

I have been pondering around on what to do for transmission/transmission upgrades?



At first i was gonna get a full built transmission minus billet output shaft. After pricing and different options i've been second guessing. Do i really need to spend that kinda coin on something i most likely won't use to its fullest extent.



This is for the truck in the sig, as far as what i have in the sig the only other items I plan on adding is after market turbo(just one), and a Smarty or comp box or a adrenaline.



I am not gonna be doing any racing, sled pulling, boost launches, or trying to put down any big numbers.



The only thing i am really looking for is a stout, reliable transmission. Main concern is to improve the shifting, and firming up the transmission, and every now and then getting on it just to show others i have a little more power than stock under the hood and an occasional intersection blackout. :-laf I do however tow moderate and every once in a while tow 20-23k gross.



That being said some have reccommended doing just a Tq converter, valve body, and maybe a flex plate being i'm right there already. Then of course down the road if i feel i need more strength i can upgrade the whole transmission and i'll already be ahead of the game with having converter, valve body, and what not.



What's everyone think? If so what makes a good Tq converter and valve body for stock transmission internals?



Should i do Full transmission build?

Or just Upgrade some parts?

 

[Doughboy21kd]

Wow? No one? TTT

 

[Jefff929]

I'd do suncoast mostly because I have a dealer close.



Hind sight being what it is, I'd do a full rebuild not just pieces.

 

[BWagnaar]

Well besides the valve body, and converter the only other upgrades you can do and new/more clutches, better planetary gears sets, and billet shafts. If you have a low mile transmission than a VB and TC should work great for a long time if your not beating on it hard all the time. I bought my truck with 155K on the clock and the transmission was hurting pretty bad. It would slip a bit getting on the throttle and 4th gear would take a long time to shift, most of the time I would have to let off the throttle for it to shift.

So I did a shift kit, $65 and you modify your own VB. But it wasn't a very "balanced" or perfected method, but it worked. The transmission lived for another 45K with the addition of a superchip and hx-35 turbo.



When I got my Suncoast parts ( billet input, extreme rebuild kit, 3 disc converter) it came to almost $3500, than $500 labor and another $3-400 in hard parts and about $150 in fluids. About a year with it in the truck and with more power adders the flex plate would make some "funny" noises every now and then so I changed it with a BD plate. Its been fine ever since.



So what I'm really trying to say is a VB and TC should fix most of your weakest link in the transmission for a mild truck. I think the VB was the best improvement cause it changed the driving characteristic completely and it "fits" the new power and characteristic of my driving. The stock transmission was just way too soft for me, but some people complain about neck pain after they ride in the truck:-laf

 

[John - K5AWO]

I suspicion that a good strong TC and shift manifold would be just fine, something like what I did in my signature.

I called Suncoast and told them pretty much what you just posted. They told me the OEM transmission would more than take care of my needs if I would install the 3 disc TC and the upgraded shift manifold. I asked about a billet input shaft and he said for HP below 500 you won't need it.

I never hotrod my truck. It has slipped the tires a couple of times, and occassionally it puts down black smoke at takeoff when some jerk comes up beside me mouthing off. My truck's takeoff performance is vastly improved over what it was.

I will say though, that I bought the lowest stall speed TC and it is a tad bit of a nuisance at stop lights because it keeps wanting to go even at 800 rpm idle. I don't mind though, because it shifts into OD now at 38 which make city driving very nice becuz I get better mpg than I did before. If the light is going to be a long one, I just slip it into neutral for the wait. Some of our lights are 5 minutes long here.

I will comment that the DC487 shift manifold I bought is very nice, at heavy throttle (2100 rpm) it holds off on the shifts just right. It always seems to give the right transmission performance for the job needed. Light throttle, it upshifts quickly. Heavy throttle, it backs off and delays the shifts. If you have a sudden need for getting it on fast, it downshifts immediately w/o delay. Almost seems like it can anticipate your needs.

When I pull my 34' TT at 8,000# the truck don't seem to notice it is back there. The shifts are nice and where they belong. Then engine provides me all the power I have any use for. Stock turbo and limited to 20 psi boost.

I'm happy with what I got.

EDIT: forgot, one of the clutches was burned. Had to replace that and the little elbow thing that goes with it. Forgot what that is called.

 

[Cummins Thunder]

If you plan on making locked shifts you should get the billet input. Broken input shafts are no fun! Id rather break 10 output shafts than one input.



In your case I would use the stock flex plate, single disk converter, billet input (if you plan on any more power upgrades), and a VB of your choice (Transgo VB kit will work just fine for your needs).

Trust me, I have been where you are at.



Edit: As John said, doing just the VB is an excelent upgrade. The 01 in my sig (girl friends DD) is running just Tony's VB and it is a perfect set up for the amount of power the truck makes (about 180 hp at crank over stock) you cant slip the trans at all.

 

[monkeyman]

I started with the Torque converter, then replaced parts as they broke! Input and output shafts, flex-plate and valve body. The stock trans does great, with a stock engine!

 

[Doughboy21kd]

Forgot a transmission for the Poll list... Maybe someone can add this too the list and maybe someone has some info on this transmission.



What about NADP?

 

[Doughboy21kd]

Wow. . I figured this thread would get a little more attention then this?

 

[Cummins Thunder]

Wow. . I figured this thread would get a little more attention then this?

I think people are a little shy on threads like this due to the "transmission wars" of the past. I am sure you will be happy which ever route you go.

 

[Doughboy21kd]

I have called Suncoast and they seem really knowledgable on there transmission's and didn't try selling me anything i don't need.



Called DTT and they are just a little higher in price (specd out the same as suncoast). The guys from DTT might be going to a race and said that if they do and the timing is right on my end they would drop it off on there way and take my core. So i would have no shipping or core charges.



Talked to Dave at Goerend and he is the cheapest but only within a few hundred. Dave did say if i was gonna add any fueling boxes that fuel hard on the bottom end that a BD pressure loc would be a good idea to keep the pressure up.



What do you all think about that? I have heard good things about Goerend but why is he suggesting a pressure-loc and suncoast and DTT aren't? Shou,ld i even worry about it?



THANKS