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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) transmisssion no reverse

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) b1 or b1-2? ? ?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Allison Transmission

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i have a 1996 dodge and the problem i am having iswhen i am towing the and not in overdrive the truck only runs about 65 mi hr wide open. Is this right,and when it sets for awhile after towing it takes awhile before it goes into reverse but it goes into the forword gears ok. i towed a 1985 camaro on a lite weight car trailer to give you an idea on the weight i was towing. Thanks. Marlon
 
Sounds like your reverse band is out of adjustment. Pull the pan change filter and adjust the bands. I have a 95 and I am still trying to figure out why my truck won't go over 65 in 3rd direct.
 
the 94-95 auto (160hp) pumps REALLY need a governor spring kit, as well as any other 12v. the springs in the 160 really limit top end fueling-- they start defueling around 2200 rpms. put in a gsk and you'll be pulling a lot higher rpms (wont start to defuel until around 2800rpms, but that also depends on the plate and the position of the plate). a 12v auto with 3:54 gears runs about 2700 rpms or so at 65mph.



as far as the reverse it's either the band or the check valve has gone-- a common problem. let the truck idle in neutral before putting it into gear. . no fluid is pumped while the trans is in park.



Matt at PDP can help you out with the engine performance 515-986-5801
 
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That's right

98rammer has it right, the 160 hp trucks need the 3GSk to run decently, especially in direct or 3rd gear.



You may have low ATF level, I'd check it first. With the stock trans pan it is very important to have the ATF at the full mark or up to 1/4" above the full mark when hot, but not low. There just isn't enough capacity with the shallow stock pan to be even a little low.

You have to be seriously overfilled to cause problems, the ATF level has to be up into the 'zig-zag' on the dipstick to cause foaming. This is over 1" overfilled.



I'd drop the pan, change the ATF, adjust the two bands. The front band [2nd gear] should have 1/4" free play, you can use a 1/4" allen wrench as a 'feeler guage' and adjust as needed. The other method for adjusting the front band is to loosen the adjusting lock nut on the drivers side of the case just above the shift linkage [3/4" or 19mm nut] and then torque the adjusting threaded rod down to 72 INCH POUNDs. Not Ft. Lbs. then back off 2 turns, tighten the lock nut. You will find the free play at the lever to be 1/4"



The rear band very rarely gets worn, [except on snow plow trucks] but it is adjusted similar to the front band, the lock nut is 9/16" or 14mm, and use a 5/16" or 8mm socket for the adjustment bolt. Torque to the same 72 inch pounds, thenback off 3 turns, tighten the lock nut.



When you refill the trans put in 4 quarts, start and put in neutral, fill to the full mark, and take it for a drive, then check again. It is real common to need to add more ATF after the test drive. Use the lowest reading on the dip stick, the bent-tube design of the dipstick tube makes reading the ATF level a real pain, and often the bottom of the stick reads easier than the top. The end of the tube messes up the reading as the stick is pulled out to read.



Let us know if this helps, if you have questions PM me.



Hope this helps, Greg Long
 
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Just a few comments about the 160 pump. I have one in my '95. It has a #5 plate. I have turned the stock governor springs in two clicks and run the high idle stop all the way in then backed it out one turn. My engine will turn 3000 RPM. I ran it up to that speed just to see if it would do it. The most I've turned pulling my trailer is about 2800.



If the rear band adjustment does not fix the no reverse problem it may be a bad seal. I had the same problem on a '81 Imperial. It was a hardened seal. Everything else was ok. I don't if our transmissions can have that problem, but the Imperial transmission is very similar to what we have only smaller.
 
Lsfarm said:
You may have low ATF level, I'd check it first.



Doh! forget the obvious. . :eek:



also the stock rear servo will tend to get cocked in the bore and stick, possibly break, but that would probably cause you to lose reverse (though maybe it'll stick one way? i dunno).



Joe, the gsk will go far beyond stock springs. it's not how high the rpms will turn, it's how hard the pump will fuel at whatever rpm. my old 12v stock would hit 3100 in neutral, but wouldn't pull much after 2400rpms in drive(2600 maybe with some extra fuel). with the gsk it would pull until 3000, 3100 where it then started to defuel. that makes a huge difference on pulling and/or stock converter.



and while the gsk is intimidating at first, it's simple.



Tom
 
Mine will run 3000 RPM on the road. Even with OD locked out I was going faster than I really wanted to go. I don't know what RPM it will turn pulling my trailer, but it is pulling hard and not defueling at 2800. I know that the GSK will go past stock springs. I see no need for me to go that fast. My convertor is a DTT so it is plenty efficient.
 
I just adjusted my governor lever and went for a spin. Made a nice change but, I think I went to far. Lots of thick black smoke if you get on it to hard but, takes off a heck of a lot better. Next is to check the timing just to cover my bases and then on to the 3GSK to make her get up and go. I really appreciate all the info I am getting



Thanks and many thanks
 
transmission

Thanks for the info,my truck is at about 2700 rpm at 65 mi hr. I will change trans fluid and adj bands and see if that helps. I have adj them before,but it is hard to get the precise 72 in lbs because all i have is a 1/2 inch torque wrench. I will post my findings. Thanks,Marlon
 
Marlon,



2700 RPM is about the defueling point for a stock setup. You will need to tweak the governor springs or install a GSK to get it to run faster than that.
 
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