Travel trailer bearings

[TPringle]

I am in the process of repacking the bearings on a 1994 Jayco, 32ft travel trailer. I am in Mexico and need to pull the trailer 600 miles to the border. I had repacked the bearings 2 trips ago, and have since failed another bearing. I am using semi synthetic grease, and will this time since it is what I have. I have heard you set the bearings on a trailer fairly loose. Anyone know?



I have been down 2x in Mexico with burned up wheel bearings (and brakes) on this trailer, and dont want to make it 3x. I engine brake when I can, and dont 'ride' the brake. I set them fairly tight the last time, which may be my mistake.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

On mine, when reassembling, I *snug up* the nut, to fully seat the bearings to the races - but do not over tighten - then back off one full flat on the nut to the next cotter pin hole. That should get you some noticeable - but not excessive - wheel looseness if you pull back and forth sideways on the tire after reassembly. OH, and I use a Castrol "fibrous" wheel bearing grease - some greases without "body" to them will just run out when they get heated up...

 

[RVTRKN]

If you have a torque wrench, torque them them 30' lbs and back the nut off 1/4 turn. You can tighten a little if there is noticeable play in the bearings. The reason you torque them is to set the bearing and you back off so the bearing wont burn up. As you described in the thread, too tight will kill the bearing and if you only got two years on a set thats likely what happened. If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten them as your best guess and then back the nut off. You should be able to spin the wheel with ease and grab the tire and pull & push as if you were trying to make the tire steer for you, if it's too loose it will have a slight knock or slop feel, thighten slightly until play is gone. They must not be over tightened. I have had to do this many times in emergency situations, last time a brake shoe froze on me and to remove the shoe I had to remove the hub W/wheel. I didn't even have to grease them, just performed what I described, and drove it 1000 miles until I could change out the backing plate assy.

 

[R C Cola]

Bearing

I am old school also. We always went tight enough that we could feel the resistance to wheel spin by hand, then back off to the next available

cotter pin hole. You can feel the resistance go away when spinning the

wheel after having backed off, usually just the distance of part of the flat.

 

[GAmes]

Torque to 50 while spinning the hub. Stop spinning hub, back the nut off completely and tighten with fingers. Back it off to the castellation hole if need be.



http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Instruction_Sheets/059-831-00A.pdf



First part of page 2.

 

[SRadke]

I typically tighten to about 40 ft/lbs then back off 1/4 turn. It's easy to tell if they're too tight, just grab the hub after a 20 minute drive at highway speed loaded. If it's too hot to hold they're too tight.

 

[SNGLESHOT]

I have a 28 camper trailer double axel. I used the 'tighten up and back off and spin' method (old school)as described, hand pack them after cleaning and I also replace the back seal. MY question in this thread is:
It was mentioned about the torque of 30lb 40lb and 50lb. Why so many variables. Which is it? Does it depend on the axel manufacture recommendations, size and/or weight of trailer? As you can probably tell, I am NOT a mechanic with a lot of experience. In fact, just new to all this really.

 

[RVTRKN]

I have a 28 camper trailer double axel. I used the 'tighten up and back off and spin' method (old school)as described, hand pack them after cleaning and I also replace the back seal. MY question in this thread is:

It was mentioned about the torque of 30lb 40lb and 50lb. Why so many variables. Which is it? Does it depend on the axel manufacture recommendations, size and/or weight of trailer? As you can probably tell, I am NOT a mechanic with a lot of experience. In fact, just new to all this really.

It is what I was taught about 35 years ago by a good mechanic I started working for as a kid. I guess to each his own, but there is the same pattern of tightening then backing off.

 

[Grizzly]

Check this recent thread out, "Trailer bearings". Post #5 by Boatpuller has a good video demonstration.

 

[Jrissler]

I don't think they make as good of quality bearings as they use to. I have a flatbed trailer and I have trouble running bearing all the time, I probley smoke a bearing every 3-4k miles on it. I just try to keep a close eye on them, Lost a few on the interstate and that is not fun, Scary actually!!! Good luck.

 

[Skydiver]

TPringle, are you replacing your races and seals?

I try to add a lot of extra grease inside the hub. I figure if the drums heat up the grease will get hot and flow to the bearings. I have seen people fill the hub almost completly with grease. Then with the bearings inplace (no outer washer yet) hold your thumbs on the outer bearing. As you shove the hub on the axle the excess grease will squirt out of the outer bearings.

Some people say that this packing method will cause heat to accumulate.

If you see grease slinging on the rims you have a problem.

Cool wheel hubs are cool in my book.

 

[TPringle]

Thanks for the advice. I am replacing races and all, including seals, esp on the burnt one. I suspect I had them set too tight, then loaded, and braking coming down a mountian finished the job. You know, GOT to use the brakes some ...

 

[Ron Bissett]

after removing old grease clean ,bearing seal, spindel ,repack bearing ,replace inner bearing and seal ,replace hub after cleaning. replace outer bearing after repacking, replace thrust washer ,replace spaner nut torque to Fifty (50 )foot lbs. with torque wrench or a 12in wrench or plyers to full pressure is applied ,then back off the nut (this is done while spining the wheel to help seat the bearings using the old races , and or to seat new bearings to new races. when tightning the nut finger tight only then back to the nearest hole to seat the cotter pin. nut should have a small amount of movement. Old bearings must be used with the orignal race as it was worn down with the bearing ,dong mix them up or fast ware and or failure could be instore ,New race for new bearings . Old race can be nocked out with a wood ,or brass drift ,aluminum drift or if none of the above a hammer handle (wood) will work. Wash ,dry , all parts before greasing and keep all sand ,dirt etc grease and sand make fine grinding salution. Ron Bissett P. S use hi temp greas repack and light coat or race ,spindel seals . note do not spin wheel while tightning the nut by hand.

 

[TPringle]

I got into the bearings and much to my surprise I found a lot of pitting and roughness. Somehow moisture had gotten into almost all the bearings! Thank goodness I checked them ALL before this trip! I have replaced all the bearings and races. I also replaced seals. I sure dont remember running this trailer under water, but there was water in there.



One set looked looked ok, but sounded rough when I spun the wheel. Another looked (and smelled) like it had been hot. I had to make a thrust washer (the last one got chewed up pretty good when I lost a bearing on the road - just TRY and find one in Mexico), tightened the nuts fairly tight, then loosened it up so I had a slight play in the bearing. The next flat on the nut took out the play, which I didnt think was good. Yes, I tightened with my fingers the last time... I think I am ready to hook on and drag this thing out of Mexico! Maybe this time I will get more than 3000 miles out of these bearings!

 

[CDonaldson]

Ever axle company has a reference to bearing torque, that IS the best way to get your torque correct. Many of the trailer manufacturers include this information in their owners manuals, if not there, try getting their service manual for your model. Service manuals are excellent companion books to owners manuals, they tell you everything you need to know, usually right down to part numbers, ends the questions game and also ends excessive wear issues. I always replace seals when replacing bearings, use a bearing packer to get the pack equal and correct all the way around. I also carry a spare set of bearings for those 'just in case moments' like you are experiencing right now. You should be getting a lot more mileage out of your bearings, I see 30-40K miles easily on a set of bearings, and have seen more.



CD