Triple Pillar Gauge Mounts

[Puffin Smoke]

Does anybody besides me think that these pillars that you are suppose to mount on to you original one are a piece of **** ****! Well I do! To many wires and it just doesnt fit right where I had to cut the speaker. Do they make a pillar where you can just get rid of your original with out having to have to mount it to it? I wanna save the dash mount space for my pressure gauge and whatever else I plan on getting.

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

I took out the stock pillar. Didn't know I was supposed to leave it in... ... ..... Greg

 

[jbone]

I tried that over the old **** and agree that you don't need the old one under... ... mounted turbo, temp W-switch, fuel pressure and have my dual-exhaust temp in dash... sometimes that pillar seems too wide, but we adjust... ... ... R, J. B.

 

[TORQUE THIS]

I took the factory pillar out and matched it up to the gauge pod pillar. I marked the location of the top and bottom clips, cut them out and used epoxy to mount them to the gauge pod. Now it can just be snaped in and out like the original one. No visible screw heads and it fits perfect.

 

[Bob Wagner]

keep your fingers crossed, beacause we heard it before

A new replacement 2 and 3 gauge mount to replace the oem pillar should be out in the next 3-4 weeks



Is suppose to be same same quality as the oem pillar, but the color will be black so you will still have to paint it.

 

[JHansen]

That's funny Bob-I heard the same thing! Betcha we even heard it from the same fella.....



Jason

 

[andrewkoperdak]

A-Pillar

I bought an AutoMeter dual A-Pillar. I did not have any trouble with it. It fit perfectly over my OEM. I am running three guages through it though one of them is a dual Boost/EGT. I did have arrange my tubes and wires to lay flat (none could ride on top of the others) so that my replacement would fit snug. I used automotive quality double sided sticky foam tape to secure the new pillar to the old. No problems with any of it.

 

[Car_nut57]

Gauge mount

The "A" pillar mount covers seem to work well, but you must be very care full and patient when installing them. Drill a good sized hole at the bottom of each gauge pod for the wires and such to be pulled through, then install the gauges into the pod and run the wires through the holes. Now fit the cover with gauges installed over the "A" pillar and install the securing push pins. One trick is to daisy chain as many of the wires as possible such as illumination wiring so that you have less wires to squeeze through the small opening at the bottom of the "A" pillar.



To me the hardest part is getting the Pyro and wires from the "A" pillar through the opening in the dash. Not much room at all.



We have installed many of the "A" pillar gauges and her are some things that may make it easier.



When you remove the stock a-pillar post, tip the top towards the steering

wheel to get it out. You have to use a little force to get it free of the

dash.



Instead of drilling one hole in the a-pillar post, for wires, we cut a

bigger hole behind each gauge hole so it is easier to route the wires. Make

sure that you don't cut thru the a-pillar hold downs.



The gauges are "press fit" into the mount. When you fit the gauges to the

holes, make sure it is a tight. The mounting hardware for the gauges is not

used. This is done so should a light burn out, you can pull the gauge and

change it without removing the a-pillar.



When you drill the gauge mount to attach it to the a-pillar, if you are

careful you can get the holes close enough to the left hand edge so that the

push pins that hold them together are hidden by the doors rubber trim.



When you install the a-pillar and mount assembly, lay a rag or towel on the dash

and a thin rag over the edge where the bottom of the a-pillar goes below the

dash. This will protect the paint on the a-pillar.



A shop vac works great for removing the chips from the manifold after

drilling and tapping.



When you run the wire from the trans temp sender, run it all the way to the

gauge. The instructions have you splice at the firewall and under the dash.



Gauge lights. Remove the "fuse panel" cover located just inside the drivers door and the panel under your steering wheel. From the fuse panel you can identify the fuse for the illumination of the dash. This is the wire you want to tap for the gauge lights as it is controlled by the dimmer switch. You can also locate the keyed on hot in the fuse panel.

 

[Puffin Smoke]

Who is suppose to be selling the new pillar mounts?

 

[Six_Man_Diesel]

So the full pillar replacement from TST isn't a pillar that takes the place of the stock one??

 

[JHansen]

Still a top-secret project! I'm not saying until the men involved give me clearance to run wildly through the forums waving my arms and screaming bloody murder... ...



But as soon as they do I'll drop the hammer on it!



Jason

 

[Puffin Smoke]

Mines from autometer but I think the majority of them are.

 

[cmckinney]

Autometer 3 gauge mounting

How do you get the Autometer 3 gauge mount to stay in place if you remove the OEM pillar? Seems like the Autometer is not a good fit and needs some adjustment.



JHansen - Give us an update so we can decide who makes the better replacement I know I'll wait b/c I'm not impressed with Autometer.

 

[mediccummin]

a pillar

I think there all made by autometer no matter where you buy it. I used it as a replacement and not a cover fits tight and snug with one screw at the top with a hide a screw cap to cover my screw head, painted the same color as my pillar, looks and works fine over 1 year no problems... ... ... . Oo.

 

[Chipstien]

Had no prob installing mine but sure wish they made a four guage pod as my FP guage is still hiding in the ashtray till I figure out where to put it.

 

[P Madrid]

I spent a good portion of the day installing my AutoMeter 3 gauge A-pillar. It took me a while to figure out how to run the wires up to the gauges with out having to drill or cut the OEM A-pillar. I remove the OEM A-pillar to inspect the area I was going to pull the wires through, to many sharp edges. I took some 1/4 inch plastic air lines and guided (shove) six pieces from the bottom to the top, wife helping with the guiding from the top. I then use some wire lubricant and run the wires needed, through the plastic lines, for the gauges: 1- Commond ground; 2- Commond dash lighting; 3- 12v positive; 4- Ignition; 5- Transmission sensor; 6- Boost line. I zip-tie all the line and pull them down about 2 inches below the top of the dash, about 1/2-1 inch avobe the visible harness (head light switch harness) with the exception of the boost line, that remain about 4 inches above the dash. I could easily pull wires up or down with no problem of catching or cutting on any thing. The Pyro yellow harness was pull up using some stiff safety wire, with the 6 plastic lines, there was a clear opening for the harness to go up through. I did cut a long "U" at the bottom of the the AutoMeter pillar so it would not catch on the wires (traced the edge of the dash corner and cut 1 inch in from the out line). Everything fits perfectly. It was a lot of work but it was my truck. For a faster installation is best to cut three holes on the OEM A-pillar, one behind each gauge location and pull the wire with wire lubricant from the top. Good Luck.



P. S. - It never fails, after you buy or install a goody, a new and improve one is release.

 

[cap-n-cray]

New One????

Will the new gauge mount match the texture of the OEM A-piller better?



Cary

 

[Ethdee]

Originally posted by TORQUE THIS

I took the factory pillar out and matched it up to the gauge pod pillar. I marked the location of the top and bottom clips, cut them out and used epoxy to mount them to the gauge pod. Now it can just be snaped in and out like the original one. No visible screw heads and it fits perfect.

Ditto.



Jim

 

[D White]

Used mine for a replacement, not a cover, and for what it's worth here's what I did. Pulled the stock pillar off and noticed about 1" below the top clip hole on the post, there is a 1/8" hole already drilled. I ripped out a 3/4 X 3/4 wooden cleat about 5" long and attached it to the post with a 1 1/2" wood screw, using that 1/8" hole. Set the replacement pillar up there and drilled a 1/8" hole thru that, into the wooden cleat. Took a #10 panhead sheetmetal screw and attached the pillar to the cleat. Painted the head of the screw to match the rest and it looks and works great. Had a couple people comment, wondering if the truck came with the gauges. Looks factory, I couldn't be happier with how it turned out.



Have fun,

DW

 

[JHansen]

Hey all-wasn't my intention to drop the bomb and then run away into hiding-I was waiting for a little more info on the new replacement pillars. Talked to one of the project principals yesterday-they are anticipating a prototype in 2 weeks! Delays mainly due to finding a new plastics shop to work with.....



I haven't seen one yet-although I have my order in for one of the new ones as soon as they're up to speed. Knowing the guys who are in on this project it'll be a nice piece.



Instead of me trying to answer your questions-you'd be better off going to the source itself. Drop Rod at Wildcat Diesel a line-he and his new partner in crime (who is also not unknown to this forum) are the men behind this deal. -- email address removed -- will get you the straight scoop..... ask him what else he's got up his sleeve in case he's holding something out on me!



Jason