Trouble changing front Shocks

[ACoyle]

I am looking for any tricks or advice for changing the front shocks on my 2004 3500. I got the backs done, I was told they were the hardest and they were buggers. I moved on to the front. From what I see it looks like the bottom bolt threads into the lower spring perch, I put my 13/16 socket on the bolt head 12 inch breaker bar and a cheater pipe. No budge. I am concerned about breaking the breaker bar (Craftsman replaceable) or snapping the bolt.



Am I in the wrong place? Any suggestions would be appreciated.



Thank You



Andy

 

[RPosey]

I remember mine being very tight also. I used a 1/2" 18v Milwaukee impac. My sugestion, get a longer pipe. It might help to support your extension so that it stays in alignment with the bolt.

 

[Newt]

I am looking for any tricks or advice for changing the front shocks on my 2004 3500. I got the backs done, I was told they were the hardest and they were buggers. I moved on to the front. From what I see it looks like the bottom bolt threads into the lower spring perch, I put my 13/16 socket on the bolt head 12 inch breaker bar and a cheater pipe. No budge. I am concerned about breaking the breaker bar (Craftsman replaceable) or snapping the bolt.

Am I in the wrong place? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank You

Andy

Don't break your Craftsman tool. The replacement will probably be a piece of Chinese crap. Craftsman isn't what it used to be.

Newt

 

[Carri56]

I recently replaced mine. I used an impact with long extension and socket. It was tuff to get to it though if I remember correctly.

 

[ACoyle]

I am thinking of getting a T-bar to use instead of a breaker bar.

Also, I have a electric impact.

 

[mfurrh55]

I used a cheater pipe on a breaker bar,Monte

 

[JR]

a flame wrench can be a mans best friend sometimes. I just changed the original front shocks out on my 98 and after putting some heat to the nut it broke loose with little resistance.

 

[Wingate]

I am looking for any tricks or advice for changing the front shocks on my 2004 3500. I got the backs done, I was told they were the hardest and they were buggers. I moved on to the front. From what I see it looks like the bottom bolt threads into the lower spring perch, I put my 13/16 socket on the bolt head 12 inch breaker bar and a cheater pipe. No budge. I am concerned about breaking the breaker bar (Craftsman replaceable) or snapping the bolt.

Am I in the wrong place? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank You

Andy

Cant call em cheater pipes any more... they are now referred to as manual torque multiplication devices... ! hahaha.

 

[Ozymandias]

Use the Impact - it will losen the bolt fairly easy.
Did it also a couple of weeks ago.
Impact is the solution - not force!

 

[ACoyle]

Use the Impact - it will losen the bolt fairly easy.
Did it also a couple of weeks ago.
Impact is the solution - not force!

I am thinking that is the case.

After reading the answers in this thread, I may not have completely scoped things out. There is a small hole in the front of the lower shock tower where I was trying to turn. I thought the back was threaded into the shock mount. If ther is a nut at the back, I missed that and it might be easier to loosen than the bolt.

Andy

 

[rscurtis]

There is a nut at the back, but it is flagged so it can't turn. I would lube the nut before disassembly. IIRC, you will have to remove the spring to gain access to the nut.

 

[cerberusiam]

There is a nut at the back, but it is flagged so it can't turn.

It is until is seizes so tight it tears the nut loose in the cheap cover that holds it. IIRC, you cannot hold the nut because it is covered and getting lube in it is impossible. Heat would do the trick on the bolt where it sticks thru the nut. Otherwise, you cut it out with a torch and get a new bolt and nut.

 

[LFalconer]

It is until is seizes so tight it tears the nut loose in the cheap cover that holds it. IIRC, you cannot hold the nut because it is covered and getting lube in it is impossible. Heat would do the trick on the bolt where it sticks thru the nut. Otherwise, you cut it out with a torch and get a new bolt and nut.

Try some PB blaster on the bolt / nut and either use an 1/2 impact wrench, or, your craftsman breaker bar with a 4lb sledge. Quick force application will usually get the bolt moving... .

Have Fun

Luke

 

[Dieselnerd]

I used a big dose of PB Blaster and let it sit several days before I did my shocks. I was able to remove the fronts with a standard length breaker bar.

 

[JR]

It largely depends on where you live. I've worked on vehicles where the flags on the nuts were long gone. The ones on my truck were there but after 13+ years not in great shape. Ithey're corroded really bad and you hit it with a big impact you risk breaking the flag and then it can be fun trying to get a back up on it. A little heat to the nut is the best way to do it if it looks like its in bad shape

 

[mwilson]

Try some PB blaster on the bolt / nut and either use an 1/2 impact wrench, or, your craftsman breaker bar with a 4lb sledge. Quick force application will usually get the bolt moving... .



Have Fun



Luke

A job for an impact gun of some sort if the flag is still solid, and do not stop once you get it moving until it is out. If it goes a bit and then stops reverse the direction and tighten it back up, hit it with penetrant and immediately loosen it again. Repeat as needed.

If you get a rusty fastener moving it builds heat and helps in the removal process. The heat generated also draws the penetrant into the threads.

If you stop for any length of time it will seize again. Then it will snap off when you try to get the rest of the way out.



Seen it happen many times, have done it myself before.

So make sure the battery in your impact driver is fully charged before you start.



If you don't own a torch set I have had success with a propane torch before, takes a little longer but can still help a lot.



As a matter of fact I forego my torches for the propane one if it is a tight area and I don't want to risk damaging something close by.



Mike.