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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Truck cranks,no start

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) No go pedal at start up / why not?

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Alright guys,need some input. A couple weeks ago I developed a leak in the rubber return fuel line on my 1995 truck. I ordered Larry B's fuel line kit,and installed it yesterday afternoon. I started the truck before the operation to make sure where the leak was coming from. Once I got everything back together all it wants to do is crank. I put the fuel lines on with a new filter,primed it with no fuel out the bleeder. I never had this hard a time getting it started before,but it's starting to frustrate me. I read similar threads and went by some of the advice there but still no prevail. Is this thing full of that much air that it takes this long to fire. Besides my arms getting tired I think my batteries are saying the same thing. It's a good thing I have another truck to charge the batteries.





John
 
If you have fuel to the injection pump, you might try to also loosen the fuel line to an injector. It could be you have air between the injection pump and the injectors also?



Also seems I remember some threads regarding problems getting a good seal when replacing the fuel filter. Something to do with the old gasket not coming off with the old filter and preventing the new filter from fully sealing which causes a big air leak. You might want to do a forum search.
 
Pressureize the fuel tank [ 2-3 lbs ] to look for leaks , to check the hose's on the right , and to help get fuel up to the lift pump .
 
I replaced one fuel line at a time so it shouldn't be that,but it did cross my mind. So I went out and filled the filter with fuel,reinstalled it,primed it and it fired up until the fuel filter was drained and it shut off. My fuel tank is full,but the truck sat for 3 weeks till I got my lines. Maybe dirt in the bottom of the tank or in the lines. I may try pressureizing the tank to see what happens. It may not happen tonight or tomorrow since the weather calls for rain,so it will have to wait till next weekend. But keep the replies coming.
 
j-miller said:
I replaced one fuel line at a time so it shouldn't be that,but it did cross my mind. So I went out and filled the filter with fuel,reinstalled it,primed it and it fired up until the fuel filter was drained and it shut off. My fuel tank is full,but the truck sat for 3 weeks till I got my lines. Maybe dirt in the bottom of the tank or in the lines. I may try pressureizing the tank to see what happens. It may not happen tonight or tomorrow since the weather calls for rain,so it will have to wait till next weekend. But keep the replies coming.



From what you just described, it sounds like your problem is occurring someplace before the fuel filter since the truck ran until all the fuel in the fuel filter was used. This probably doesn't help much but from what I have been able to put together, it looks like your problem would be cause by the connection between the lift pump and the fuel filter, the lift pump, the connection between the lift pump and the fuel heater, the fuel heater, or the connection between the fuel heater and the fuel tank.



I haven't been able to find a block diagram of how the fuel actually flows through the system but have put together a diagram which I use even though I haven't fully verified its accuracy.
 
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dont wory about the heater. get a friend to pressurize the tank while you wear your arm out one last time. or take the inlet line off the lift pump and presurize tank till you get fuel out of the line. connect and then wear out your arm.
 
He appears to have a major air leak. If he does then all the pressurizing and push button pushing is a waste of time. He has already replaced the fuel hoses. The next most likely cause of the air leak is a burned up fuel heater. Removing it is simple and only takes a few minutes. That is getting to be a more common problem as these trucks age. It may not be the problem, but it is simple to eliminate. Then either run the starter through a few cycles of running it and letting it cool down. Or push the button until there is fuel at the fuel filter bleed screw. Or pressurize the tank until there is fuel at the filter bleed screw.
 
John...

Were the lines you replaced the ones which led to the lift pump and then from the overflow valve to the return line?. Are you positive you didn't cross them at all?. If you replaced the one from the frame to the lift pump and didn't mess with the others from the pump and heater assembly to the filter housing then I doubt by eliminating the heater it will help. IF when you removed the fuel line from the line which went to the frame and back to the tank(the draw line) you had to add a touch of force or twist it some you may have cracked the main metal fuel line which would allow for air binding. With the age of the truck,knowing it has been in Central PA for most of its life,and also knowing how harsh our road salts are I'd venture to guess that you compromised the factory steel fuel supply line and its sucking air. The steel line which run from the fuel tank forward(both the supply and return lines)are well known problems with age and rust bad and will fall apart with little or no force at all. You may want to check that first.



The bad news side of that minor problem is this,those fuel lines which run along the frame on all the second generation trucks equipped with 12valves are now a discontinued item by Ma Mopar. So its either use rubber all the way,bend your own or use braided lines. Dale also had this problem recently up at his shop with a customers truck.



An easy way to figure out where your problem lies is by using a 5 gallon fuel can of diesel and a length of rubber hose as a draw. Connect it to your lift pumps draw and drop the rest into the can. If the truck turns over and runs then your problems lie behind the hoses you changed. You can also eliminate the heater assembly and test by running the hose up to the housing if need be. The fuel returned will be sent to your tank as long as the tank is not completely full.



PM me if you need a hand as I will be home most of the day and have my phone with me if you need a hand. I have to run to Hummelstown to Jetpilots tomorrow for something but other than that I am free... ... . Andy
 
The truck kind of acts like my old 04. 5 work truck. It had alot of crap and condensation in the tank and of coarse when it got cold the moisture in the tank froze around the pick up,but it has been mild here so I kind of ruled out condensation,but crap clogging up the pick-up tube... . maybe? I'll have to wait for a fair weather day. Thanks guys in advance for all your input.









John
 
Thanks for the info Andy. I thought that too,I really had to tug at the supply line fairly good till I gave up and cut it off, I thought maybe I kinked it pretty good but it looks ok. Anyway,that will be on the list of things to check.





John
 
One thing I haven't seen anyone mention is the fiber gaskets at the top of the air filter canister where the fuel lines attach. If if remember correctly, they also have a tendency to leak air. It may be nothing but it would be a simple check.



However, that said I agree with Joe G. It has to be a pretty significant air leak. FWIW, I just had my fuel heater go bad and while I could start the truck, it wasn't pretty(truck was hard to start and made a lot of white smoke). Didn't give any warning before it failed either.



From what I have read, when the fuel heaters go bad, they leak around the electrical connection. You might be able to unplug the power connection and make some kind of temporary seal it to do a quick check.
 
When the fuel heaters begin to weep fuel and allow air in they just don't do it at once,its a problem that shows itself over time. For him to just change the fuel lines out I would not believe that he caused it to fail by doing that. Most times when theya re bad you can tell by how wet the plug is when you pull it off the connector or how melted it is because of the fuel getting into it and having it short out. If that plug has melted in any way they are not available anywhere and you either need to replace it with a different plug assembly or wire it direct by removing the plug altogether.



I still think its a damaged main fuel line because of knowing how bad they deteriorate due to the harsh road salts here over the winters and you not being able to get to that area and clean it. The work he did was simple and if he didn't cross the lines he damaged one by having to twist and pull the old one off.



Completely removing the fuel heater assembly may be OK for someone where weather allows for mild temperatures. Here in our area one harsh cold snap and a truck which sits as much as Johns does due to having more than one truck and it may be some time till she unfreezes and will run again... ... ... ..... Andy
 
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