Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck Dead

[WStrong]

Driving along yesterday and my '98 just died. Fuel pressure was a solid 14 and has been right along. No amount of cycling the pump and bleeding the system helps. I have a feeling the VP 44 is the problem. Is there any way to test it without a scan tool? Is it best to get the one in it rebuilt or just get a new one and where is a good place to get the replacement. I've been reading up on how to replace it and it sounds like it would go pretty well. Sure is no fun to have it parked.















98. 5 Dually extra cab. BHAF, 4" exhaust, fooler, power puck, 275s, full guages, bright box

 

[TSRAM]

When you cracked the fuel lines at the injectors and tried a start cycle, did you get a squirt of fuel at different injectors, a drip or anything at all? You should get a pretty good squirt. I take it you've also cracked the feed line to the injection pump and checked for good fuel supply as well.

 

[TSRAM]

BTW I just went through it all a few weeks ago and called about a dozen places. Cummins Stuff was/is cheapest as many have said.

 

[WStrong]

I have real good fuel supply so I did crack the injector lines and there was good squirt. It did finally start and it goes like it always did. Now I have to figure out why it quit. Makes you a little tready to go on a long trip.

 

[rkressg]

Are there any DTCs stored in the computer. It could also be a failing CPS (crank position sensor). When they die, the engine just flat out quits and will not restart.

 

[JAlford]

Rip from Source Automotive will give you a good deal on a vp44 pump. Rebuilt or new, you are going to get a better pump than you started out with. Just be sure that it has the latest updates. I got mine from Rip, excellent service and gives you all the info and assistance that you need.

Changing the pump is not too bad - couple of pointers though.

You can use the shorter (2) manifold bolts and a steering wheel puller for the gear.

Use superglue to hold the key in the slot on the new pump when installing.

You will do well to get the updated support bracket for the rear of the pump from Cummins. Yours is likely broken, and you don't know it. There is also a secret to the bracket. You will have to colapse or cut out the insulation on the side of the engine block for clearance.

While you are changing the pump, change the cam (not crank) position sensor also. It is impossible to get to without the pump removed.

When removing the injector lines, leave them in (2) bundles, front and rear. only take the support brackets loose from the engine, not the lines, except for the one mounted to the intake manifold directly

Do a search of the forums, you will find a LOT of info on changing.

Hopefully you don't need all this info yet. But I feel more confident with the truck after changing mine out, for long trips at least.

Hope that helps, PM me if you have more questions. I changed mine about a month ago.

Jeff