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Battery as need charging for the last month or so but since I have been only using the truck on the weekends I did not think anything more then possible a weak battery. Today loaded up 2000 lbs of hardwood for delivery and alternater charge guage started decending. 20 miles later lost all power. Managed to recharge battery and made it halfway home on one battery only. Question: Batteries were changed last Nov. to excides' At least one is obviously shot. What if any is the connection with the alternater charge meter which with one battery started arround 10amps and dropped from there. Am I having an alternater problem? Is there a voltage regulator? where? Can all this have been brought on but a bad battery or vise versa.

Truck is now abandoned. Battery on charger. I am in Montreal and do not have any connection here except for having delt with Cummings Est and was not terribly impressed with that encounter last time.

Ron
 
not sure but on my truck it has a voltmeter not a charge guage and the volt guage shows the voltage in both batterys. if one batery is bad say a broken post inside or a short inside then the good batery would discharge because of the draw from the bad batery and could damage the charging system. try starting the truck and with a voltmeter (not the one on the dash) test the output at the baterys then unhook the bad batery (wrap pos end in a towel or stick in a glove to prevent contact) and check again if volts are @14. 2-14. 6 alternator seems to be working replace batery. most auto parts stores have the ability to check the batery and charging system and do so for free. Good luck hope this helps.
 
Can only guess that the charging system has been damaged. When I hook one of the batterier up to a charger it shows 6amp and then goes witin a few seconds to fully charged. The other is still taking juice after 2 hours at 12 amps. The bug question is can replacing the bad battery fix all or is the alternator needing replacement. If so it seems to be fairly simple to unbolt and rebolt a new one on. Is there more I should know. Sunday night nothing is open and I have to be at work by 7:30 tomarrow AM. I am not toooo comfortable leaving the truck where it is. Still 10 miles from home.
 
Start the truck up and put a volt meter across the terminals you should be showing 13. 8 volts +/- if you aren't your alternator is shot. Don't buy a Kragen ect. either buy new or if you hace an actual rebuild shop in town they can rebuild it for you. You should think about a "maintenance charger" which will just keep the batteries topped off.

P. S. take the batteries out and give them a day long charge individually and have a load test done . Kragen ect. OK for that

Don
 
if in need of getting home maby swap in a batery from a donor vehicle (prefirably 2 baterys if possible) and try to get home with nothing on but the truck if poss. at least it will be home then you can test at your convience.
 
Thanks, Deceided to leave the truck where is overnight. In the parking lot af a diesel parts shop as luck would have it. Will go out tomowwor with at least one fully charged battery and see what gives. Have the nome for an elevtrical rebuild so will either drop the alternator off there or see if shop in front of me has something to fit. Then will see about finding a replacement battery. Heres hoping that they will let me keep it parked where it is at least for tomorrow untill I have a chance to check out your suggestions. Am I right in assuming that just because that batteries are low or if only one is installed that is no excuse for the alternator not to be outputting fully. It does not require a certain return voltage from the batteries?
 
Whatever you do, don't put that bad battery back in. The alternator may have blown the fusible link where it ties into the PDC? If the alternator is not charging, then have it checked as stated above because the alternator output is controlled by the PCM, in other words the alternator could be good and still no charge. I would not try the voltage check without the battery in the circuit, first, the alternator needs voltage to the field winding to work, second, with the engine running and the alternator working some strange things can happen to the electronics in your truck without the battery there for a buffer. bg
 
Thanks, really helpful. When I started out this am alt was showing OK charge and then slowely dropped to nothing thru the nxt few hrs. First time stuck I Identifies the bad battery, recharged the good one for only 1 hr before trying to get hme with it alone. At that time the alt charge was showing about 10 amps? first wh line on the dial. It decended to the red over the nxt 10 miles and I had time to pull over before the truck quit. Could the low battery result in the low alt charge. ? Should I replace the batterys first and hope all is well or start with testing of the charging system?

Ron
 
Correct, just 1 battery in the curcuit will show if it charging or not. They should be able to test the alternator just to elimate the wiring out of the loop.
 
As stated above, it should have worked with one battery, sounds like the alternator is not working at all. I would look at fusible link and if it is ok then find somewhere to get the alt. checked. bg
 
Is the fusible link he line that comes off the alternatot and runs to the passenger side battery?? Is there a trick to uncoupling it. Tried to get it apart to no avail. Is the alternator not working even if there is a positive reading on the gauge?? Obviously not enough to keep the battery charged. Thanks for all the info. I have a much clearer idea of the problem. If there is still no normal alternator reading in the am with a fully charged battery I will pull the alternator for testing, replacing, rewinding or whatever I can find. Then with the alternator working should be able to get to somewhere to warentee exchange the bad battery.
 
The fusible link (it's called the generator cartridge fuse) is located inside the PDC. The PDC is the big plastic box just behind the drivers side battery. Remove the top cover and look inside, the gen. fuse is located on the side nearest the engine and is a strap with a screw in either end across the bus bars in the PDC, if it is bad it will be melted or burned in two. bg
 
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A bad Battery could cause a dead short internally that would cause the alternator to work extra hard, and possibly damage it or the fuse. Check the fuse as stated above. Remove the bad battery and put the good one on the drivers side. Cover passenger side battery terminals with gloves or rags to protect from grounds and shorts. You might have to borrow a spare battery from some where if the one good one will not start it. After starting check out put of alternator with DVM or simpson at the good battery terminals. Out put should ba as stated above 13. 8 to 14. 4 VDC.
 
rgreen said:
Jst in case, can somone supply directions for changing ot the alternator?

Removal should be fairly easy. You will need to remove the belt first, a 3/8" drive breakover bar or a long ratchet is needed to release the pressure of the tensioneer from the belt to get the belt off. There is a 3/8" square hole in the front of the tensioner. Then remove the wires from the back of the alternator, the big wire is hot (12V) all the time so either disconnect the batteries or wrap the wire to keep from burning somthing out. Then remove the bolt/bolts holding the alternator in plce. bg
 
Recovered truck this am . Started with the batter I rechatged overnight. Everything I can check checks out except no charge. Had the alternator changed at a local garage across the road from where I was stalled. No hassel excellent service although not completely equiped to deal with the diesel they were willing to losten to what I wanted done and followed the advise given. While they were changing the alternator I tracked down an exide battery dealer and got the bun battery replaced under warrentee. Thank all for the advise. Truck now sems to run fine.

Ron
 
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