Truck dies on first start.

[RVTRKN]

First, I'll give a little history and then I'll list the issues when I got it to stay running. I replaced the fuel filter myself for the first time on my 07 C&C and have @ 1000 miles on the new filter. I never had an issue nor do I show any sign of a diesel leak during that time period. Even though I don't relate it to my issue, I had the 220 amp alternator recall just performed and have a couple of hundred miles on it. Also the truck can sit for a couple of weeks with out running at a time.

Last week I started the truck and it died twice, before it stayed running. I had a check engine light, but my code reader is showing zero codes stored or otherwise, (I don't trust it) and after a couple of times of restarting the truck the CEL went away. I thought I might of had a seal failure with my fuel filter canister and was looking for signs of diesel leaks on my drive way, and saw none. Yesterday I started the truck and the battery was low in voltage, because I have a 12volt X 10 watt Crank Case Heater installed on my AC compressor. The CCH is only turned on 12 hrs before starting the truck, if it sits longer than two days. So with 11.5 vdc showing on my break smart LCD, I turned the ignition on and the grid heater light was on and voltage dropped to 10 vdc. When the light went out and the voltage returned to 11.5 vdc, I started the engine and it died, then restarted the engine, and it died again. On the third attempt, it did not have enough voltage to turn it over, so I got out my battery boost pack and started it and it ran normal on the first attempt afterwards. However on my way to work my TPS light was illuminated along with the CEL without any issues. I looked up in the owners manual what the TPS light meant, and it was OK to drive as long as it was not blinking, but I should see a dealer to check issue. When I restarted the truck after work, it started without issue and the TPS light was no longer illuminated but as I figured the CEL was still on because the ignition had not cycled enough yet.

Any opinion welcomed, I still suspect the fuel filter canister seal, and that the TPS was due to low voltage.

 

[Bob4x4]

I would never crank a computor controlled truck with voltage that low.I have replaced so many controllers after jump starting.It should be considered only in an emergency situation imho.

 

[RVTRKN]

What's the lowest voltage you would crank at? I just started the truck at 11.5 volts and it ran on the first try as I expected it would. If I don't run the crankcase heater on my AC compressor after sitting more than two days of not running the truck, I'll get a slug of liquid at the compressor and it does not sound good. BTW, it always did that from brand new, but I never connected the noise to liquid slugging at compressor, and is why my OEM compressor failed early.*

 

[jelag]

So when my truck sits outside where the temp drops below 30*F and I push the start button..... the grid heater times out... and the truck will crank, and start for 3-10 seconds and than shuts down.... pushing the start button a second time and it starts and runs fine... any time the outside temp is above the 30* F mark, it starts/runs normally..... nothing more, nothing less, and no codes... I just assume its part of how my truck is....

 

[RVTRKN]

I was able to get my code reader to work and the CEL was from low PCM ECM voltage. I'm going to remove my fuel canister to see if the O-ring is OK. At this time I'm suspecting air getting into fuel filter from sitting for two weeks without running. It sure seems to be that anyway. As mentioned, I installed a 10 watt crankcase heater on my AC compressor to keep the refrigerant from settling into the compressor which is at the lowest point and is prone to accumating liquid refrigerant after sitting for a week. It will make a loud bang when the compressor first starts. It has done this since brand new, and it took out the first compressor. So when I replaced it, I installed a 10 watt heater on it, and I turn it on for 12 hours prior to starting the truck. This can cause a drain on the battery, and I'll now have to install a battery charger when I turn the heater on. It cranks over and starts right away, but then dies after a couple of seconds. Cranking it over three times is to much for the low batteries after the 12hr 10 watt heater run time, if I have to restart it three times to clear the air out of the fuel. I hope I didn't crack the plastic fuel filter canister.*