Archived truck dying at low rpm, many codes EGR?

[Weidner]

07 Mega cab auto 6. 7 new to me by 45 days or so. 137,xxx miles. I have used it to tow a large horse trailer about 10k miles since I bought it with no problems. Regen working well and no complaints until now.



My CEL came on last week and I set an appointment for the soonest the dealer could see it (tomorrow). I have been searching a lot and the 6. 7 is all new to me so forgive me if I have missed some posts that may be the same issue. I have been a 5. 9 guy for ever.



Codes are: P0420, P1451, P0106, P0488 and P2299



Now besides the CEL and Throttle light the truck is dying in turns (low RPM) and is not starting back up on first try, it will start second try. It is running rough at low rmp like a gas truck missing or back firing in the intake. I had to drive it two footed to keep the Rs up at stop signs to get it back to the campground last night (I assume that set the 2299)



I need this truck fixed soon and hopefully on the cheap side. I can do a lot of work myself, but am on the road with just a "standard" set of tools with. I am due to haul my camper and then horses to Ocala Fl from Altoona Iowa next week (two trips).



Is it the EGR Valve? CCV filter? DPF? I am thinking those are the things that I should be looking at.



I am not against doing some deletes, I just need the parts sent asap and get to it, but I want to be confident that will get this truck up and running so I can make two cross country trips next week.



Any thoughts??

 

[cerberusiam]

Unfortunately I think you are going to have to find a dealer or a shop to diagnose and fix it, at least diagnose the problem(s) and suggest a parts list. The VGT and EGR can be a total pain to repair and get back to working order. Not something you wan tto do ain a campground if you can help it.

 

[Weidner]

It is at the dealer but I am shopping for deletes, tuners and what ever else may make this thing better.

 

[p-Bar]

PO420 AFTERTREATMENT DIESEL OXIDATION CATALYST HAS BEEN REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE
AFTERTREATMENT DIESEL OXIDATION CATALYST IS DAMAGED OR NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY
AFTERTREATMENT DIESEL OXIDATION CATALYST INLET AND/OR OUTLET TEMPERATURE SENSORS ARE DAMAGED/FAILED
IMPROPER FUELING
WIRING HARNESS

seems to be your DPF . Deletes are hard to find as EPA been beating on those tuners people . If you do don't throw your DPF away as you may need it down the line

 

[cerberusiam]

By law, shops cannot do the deletes. The fines are outrageous, just like the gassers. About the only thing you can do legally is a tuner. the rest is all into areas we don't talk about here.

If the DPF has failed it may be a warranty item otherwise about $4000 later you wil be up and running.

 

[Weidner]

Thank you for all the great advice. TDR sure has changed in the last 10 years.

 

[sag2]

The first place to start is a flash if the controller has not been updated for a while. There are updates that may cure at least three of your codes. Flash, clear codes and drive again to see what returns.

 

[Sticks]

P0420 - repair all other DTC's first. (I'm leaning towards a temps sensor, I've got 2 at work that we have had to replace them on)

P1451 - repair all other DTC's first

P0106 - Boost pressure sensor. Clear and if it returns w/i 5 seconds, replace, or idle for 1 minute and values on scanner do not fluctuate slightly, replace.

P0488-EGR AIRFLOW THROTTLE CONTROL CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE - 9 steps of diagnosis.

P2299-BRAKE PEDAL POSITION / ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION INCOMPATIBLE - Repair all other DTC's first.

Interview owner and ask if the ETC lamp turned on while they were driving "two footed" (using the right foot for throttle and left for brake)

Is the owner a two footed driver?

First time I've seen that diagnostic step. No power braking for you!

 

[Weidner]

Thanks Sticks, I did some searches and had found some of that but not all of it.

Update - The tech called and said he was waiting for a reply from the tech assistance. The EGR valve is opening and closing causing the truck to shutter. He did not have another EGR Valve on hand to try. (The dealer I worked at it was very common to through a new part at the problem and see if it went away) I discussed the delete and if it is the valve that is bad and not a sensor telling it to open and shut the delete should solve the issue.

Of course that is my own repair to complete and I do understand that it would void the warranty and have a negative effect on what comes out of the tail pipe plus could leave a CEL illuminated unless some sort of tuner is added.

 

[Sticks]

The EGR valve is a flaky relay or wiring - at least that is what the diagnostic steps focus on before you replace the ECM.

I've been known to throw a known working part at a suspect problem as a quick test, especially for intermittent issues, or potential mechanical failure that the diagnostic tree does not cover. No harm in it as long as you are not charging the customer for the part if it did not fix it - you simply put the original one back in. I kept a collection of oil pressure, MAP, IAT, APPS, CPS sensors, and relays for the big three in my toolbox at work.

Sorry I did not post the definition for the first two in the other post

P0420 - Catalyst Efficiency Bank 1
P1451-DIESEL PARTICULATE FILTER SYSTEM PERFORMANCE

Both are DPF codes, basically saying they are either no good or plugged for some reason.

 

[Weidner]

The tech says it is a faulty egr valve actuator. . .