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just picked up my 3500 quad cab shortbed and all i can say is wahooooo. i can not believe this truck is so nice. i just can not believe it.



my question is, i just hooked up my tailer and noticed that the ball is about one inch lower than my 2001 was and the truck sags when i lower the weight on the tongue. much more than my 2500 01. the truck is not level with the trailer on.



with the weight on i took a look under and the extra leafs are just about to touch, say maybe 1/8 inch of gap. with the tongue weight off there is about 2. 5 to 3 inches of gap.



i have a six inch drop ball on now and could go to a four to level the trailer, but this does not solve my problems with the not level truck.



what can i do?
 
I think a set of Timbrens will do the trick. $155 at stuff4trucks.com. Got mine there and found them to be the best price around. They should help keep your truck level. Also make sure your equalizer hitch is adjusted correctly. Both front and back of the truck should settle about the same when you are hooked up compared to unhooked.



You must have a lot of tongue weight. Better a bit heavy than to light though. Good luck.



Casey
 
I've got about 600 lbs of tongue weight but it doesn't sag more than about 1. 5 inches. If your sagging that much then you should probably move up to a load equalizing hitch. This will allow you to level out your truck and it will handle better too.
 
Kurt,id say install a set of air bags if the springs are too soft,or add a leaf,this will bring it up an inch or so,and stiffen it slightly. On the timbrens,while they do help,I dont think they are what your looking for. The timbrens wouldnt help you one bit,they only work when the suspension is past 1/2 way thru the travel,and they are just soft longer bottoming stops. Congratulations on the new truck :) .
 
I entirely agree with Snow man's post. Not only that but the Timbrens will ruin your ride. I'd look for another solution but then, the Timbrens only cost $155...



Good luck.
 
My new 3500 has more sag than my '00 2500. I spent a half a day trying different stingers with different amounts of drop and even cranked in a more than normal amount of equalizer bar by using a jack to get them up over the supports. This new truck has softer springs, at least up to a point. It sort lf looks like a saggy A** Ford.



With my trailer level, the back of the truck sags (sigh). Another reason to have the old truck back.....
 
When I first responded to your original post I didn't realize you were using an equalizer hitch. With a properly adjusted equalizer hitch your truck should ride at virtually the same attitude when it is empty. A properly adjusted equalizer hitch will apply close to the same load to the front axle as you have on the back. The truck may ride a bit lower but should be as level as without the trailer. There is something wrong in your hitch setup. If you have an adjustable ball mount you need to adjust the angle to allow for increased tension on your equalizer bars. If it is a welded head, you will need to look at a different head for your set up. Do you have spring bars of adequate capacity. Weigh the trailer to determine the hitch weight. But your problem is in the hitch set up, NOT in the truck. FWIW



Casey
 
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sorry if i confused everybody, i do not use an equalizer hitch, just a ball mount. i have several different hitches with different amounts of drop. 4 inch and 6 inch.

i have to hook up and disconnect too many times a week for any exta bars, trying to make it as simple as possible. the 01 did fine with same set up, would like to keep it the same if possible.



how about those adjustable air bags that go between the axle and frame. you can change them from the cab?
 
If you don't carry a bigload like a very heavy tool box around all the time the Timbrens will work well for you. You need to have clearance between the Timbrens & the axle when empty. I have a large toolbox and a Pullrite hitch in the truck all the time, but the tool box is certainly not full. My truck rides just as well empty with the Timbrens as before I put them on. I have about 3/4" of clearance between the Timbren and the axle when empty.



Dean
 
Equalizer hitch is the best way to go. With the correct adjustment you can get just about anything to sit level. As for the time it takes to hook and unhook... After the first time, just count the chain links. After that it only takes an extra 15 or 20 seconds to hook it or unhook it.

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Briman,



I see you have an adjustable hitch head. You need to add spacers so that the spring bars are angled down closer to the ground. When you pull them up tight, it will put more load on the front axle. Take a look in the instructions for your hitch head. I had one just like it a few years ago. What I did was pull the rig to a level place to work. I unhooked the trailer and placed a small carpenter's level on the TRUCK. Shim it or place it some where where the bubble is centered. Then hook up and adjust the hitch until your bubble is centered again. I can promise you that your truck will no longer sag. Again, it is a hitch issue. Nothing wrong with your truck.



Kurt,



I think you may need an equalizer hitch to cure your problem as some one has already recommended.



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Casey
 
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Originally posted by Kurt Henzler

sorry if i confused everybody, i do not use an equalizer hitch, just a ball mount. i have several different hitches with different amounts of drop. 4 inch and 6 inch.

i have to hook up and disconnect too many times a week for any exta bars, trying to make it as simple as possible. the 01 did fine with same set up, would like to keep it the same if possible.



how about those adjustable air bags that go between the axle and frame. you can change them from the cab?



If you carry several trailers or have several hitches and you want fast and easy, go with airbags. You can quickly adjust the pressure in the bags to compensate for whatever weight you've hooked on to. When empty, just run the minimum PSI and you'll have the factory ride quality back.



I just posted a thread on my Firestone RideRite installation if you want more details.
 
and, "yes" you can change them from the cab. To make it really useful, you can add an air tank for on-board air. Air horns, tire fill-ups, etc, etc.
 
Thanks Casey,



The shim pack thats in there is from my last truck and I did not change it. The bars already angle down a bit but I will add washers to the pack to increase the angle. In the photo in my previous post the bars are going up, they are in a tensioned state. I may have to lower the bar mounts on the trailer frame as well after changing the untensioned bar angel.



I feel a little foolish - directions? What directions? :D



This hitch has been used on several different trucks and after taking it off a lighter weight truck I recall removing shim washers but have never added any back while using it with the Dodges. That will change this weekend.



Thanks again.
 
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how about just putting spacers under the rubber stoppers that contact the extra leak springs on the 3500. with an unloaded bed there is about 3 inches of clearance and with my trailer they are just about to touch. kinda useless if you ask me. who wants their wheels up in their wheel wells and the extra springs didn't even kick in yet. move the blocks down to about one inch of clearance empty and then they will hit with a load. what do you think?
 
Kurt, I dont think you will like the overloads kicking in at 1" of travel,on expansion joints,and small bumps you will feel the overloads hit everytime you take a bump,I think this will annoy you quickly. Id try adding a leaf at first,since the spring rate seems to be too light for your tastes,an add a leaf will give you the lift your looking for without the higher costs of the air bags.
 
Helper Springs

Can you put U-bolts on the helper spring and pull them down toward the main springs that suold arc the main spring up and simlar to Helwig adjustible overload springs. i thing of adding some to my Surbanban as if very low to the ground.



JB
 
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