Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Truck stalls when put in reverse.

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

NV4500, anyone recommend a rebuilder in New England?

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel leak at #2 hold down bolt

Hello, I am new to the Dodge diesel group. I am the proud new (to me) owner of a 1997 Dodge diesel 2500 4x4 club cab long box truck with an automatic. Before I got this truck it has been in the family for some time. Now it is mine. I am going to keep for as long as I am alive. A little back history on the truck. My uncle worked on it to get it up and running for me (it had been sitting since 2016, with not much driving or running) before I was in the area. It now has 174453 miles on it. My uncle put a new transmission in it, new head lights with LED's new oil and filters, shocks and breaks. Now I have it.

One of the problems I have been having is when I put it in reverse, the RPM's drops, and when I go to back up it stalls. The truck is completely stock. Other then maybe, the LED lights, which by the way, some how got the high and low beams switched. The high beam indicator light comes on for low and off for high.

The truck stalling out when put in reverse, I was told has always been doing that even "before" the new transmission. The new transmission is from Moveras part number (I believe) is written down as: MVT M00189 and its a 47RE.

Any help would be much appreciated. Sincerely Cooper56
 
Welcome, Cooper.

When it dies, does it stall down or does it just shut off like you flipped a switch?
 
Could be a fuel issue try some cetane boost Amsoil has it and others. Your right the dip in the rpm’s is causing the truck to die especially noticeable going into reverse. My 99 would do it running winter #1 diesel but adding number two diesel help it not do it. Sound like you might get #1 year round I don’t know
 
It stalls down. You step on the pedal to move and it stalls out. I think the idle is to low in revers. When put in drive it has no problems. If it is just the idle is to low. Were can I watch or read about setting the idle? Ok, I just checked the idle after I let it set for ten minutes running. I put it in drive and the idle went down under 500. That's "without" the air conditioner running. Turning on the air conditioner drops it down to the point it almost stalls out.

My next mission is to set the idle, (after I drive it to get it nice and heated up) checking the idle while in drive with the air conditioner on high. Aiming for 750 RPM's. Does that sound right to you guy's?
 
Last edited:
You’re correct, idle is too low. It’s not a “fuel issue”.

This video is a bit simplistic, it’s a bit more challenging than he makes out. The bolt and the lever wear down after all the years and miles causing the idle to drop. I’ve seen the bolts have a groove worn in them. A quarter turn will change it a lot because it’s not in the groove anymore. Contrary to what he says in the video, the spec is 750-800rpm with the A/C on AND IN DRIVE.

 
Thank you for the help, I set the idle rpm to right around 750-800 like you said and that fixed the problem. Thank you guy's.
if you have the stock converter, you can set the idle up to around 900, this will bring it down to a perfect amount with AC and in drive for the governor. Your cam and rockers will also appreciate the higher oil pressure and flow too...
 
Back
Top