Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck still won't start at 0 degrees

[Tomscreek]

I'm still having major problems starting my truck when it gets to about 0 degrees F. This past weekend it got down to 5 below at the cabin (remote area no electricity) but it was up to 15 above by 10:00 in the morning and it wouldn't start. Cranked and cranked, let the grid heaters cycle once, twice, didn't matter. As long as I was cranking on the starter it kind of wanted to go but as soon as I let off the starter it would not go. Lucky I had an old generator and plugged the block heater and an oil pan heater in for 2 hours and it fired right up. I just called my dealer and I'm taking it in tomorrow to check the transfer pump and grid heaters. The heaters sure sound like they're working. THey wanted to keep it overnight or there isn't much they can check they said. I suspect the transfer pump, 55,000 miles on the original. Any other ideas? I know it used to start beter than that.

 

[illflem]

When it gets that cold and I haven't been able to plug in it always works to cycle the grids 2-3 times before trying to crank. Turn the key on, wait for the wait to start light to go off, turn the key off then on again without trying to start.



Even though the temp got up to 15 I bet the engine was still holding the below zero temp and would continue to for quite some time.

 

[Tomscreek]

illflem,

I agree, just because it was 15 above when I went to start it doesn't mean anything. It sat all night at 5-6 below and that's what I was dealing with. I always let it cycle for at least 2 times before attempting a start when it's that cold.

 

[illflem]

If your voltmeter showed a draw while the grids were on it could be only one grid was heating. Most common cause I've found is the small trigger wires on the heater solenoids located under the drivers side battery being disconnected. They are just female couplings pushed onto a screw stud and come off easily. Just squeeze the coupling a little with pliers when it's removed from the terminal for a tighter fit.

 

[Tomscreek]

Maybe you're on to something. I did disconnect the big grid heater wire from the battery last summer. Maybe I loosened something up. I'll check. Thanks.

 

[JJW_ND]

You need both grids much below zero!

When I had a faulty grid solinoid and ran with one grid a while back, I found starting problems when temps approached -5 or so. Both grids would get things going instantly, but one would just not do it.



You can disconnect the one of th two big wires on the intake (secure it so it can not ground out on anything) and watch your volt meter. If one is not working you can find it pretty easily.





jjw

ND

 

[Grayhackle]

Not funny when the darn thing won't start. I hunted in weather far below zero night time temps. My 1990 CTD never failed me. It must be the heater(s). I was using Premium Blue, but I wonder if a synthetic oil would be better in cold winter start conditions.



I can remember my dad building a pine kindling fire under the oil pan of his log trucks (Chev & Ford) to heat the oil before they would start! This was in the early 50's. No multi viscosity oil, 30 weight in the trucks. I am still amazed he didn't ever burn something up. Also this was in Arkansas and the temp wasn't below zero. In those days cab heaters were optional and he didn't believe in "wasting" that money. Even in Arkansas in was cold as heck riding around in those trucks!

 

[ntillm01]

Voltage drops

From what I have read from others, you definitely need both heaters working anywhere from 20 degrees and lower. My experience: when both heaters are on (engine running or not) my voltmeter drops to the first mark in the "safe" zone (10 volts?); when only one is coming on, it's halfway between the safe mark and 14 (12 volts?). Just guestimates because the OEM cluster isn't marked in even spaces.



If you determine one or more grids isn't coming on, try voltage-drop tests. Similar to voltage drop tests for other high-current connections (starter, battery cables, etc). Basically, if you are supposed to have stong conection from point A (grid heater positive stud) to point B (grid heater solenoid stud) then a volmeter hooked at these points should show zero volts (no voltage drop, point A and point B are at the same voltage). If it shows voltage, then something's loose. Hard to explain in just words, sorry.