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Truck won't restart after it's been running.

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Tonneau Cover with belowrail fuel tank/toolbox

Intergrated Power Module

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Hi- My 2007 3/4 ton cummins diesel big horn limited edition starts up great. After running errands- anywhere from the 2-the 6th start up- I turn the key and nothing. Everything on the board lights up, but no spark. I usually let it sit awhile- 5-10 minutes, keep retrying it. Eventually it will turn over, I have to really hit the fuel pedal to get it to grab. When it has been sitting for weeks- it starts each time, perfectly. It has two new batteries. It's a 4 wheel drive, 5.9 engine-low mileage. Advice is appreciated. Thank you.
 
check and clean battery terminals and grounds. How many miles? rebuild starter relay solenoid, with heavy duty contacts. (Geno's garage TDR).
 
Clarify the nothing, not clear enough to even guess. Does it not spin the engine, or, crank and not start?
 
Clarify the nothing, not clear enough to even guess. Does it not spin the engine, or, crank and not start?

It does nothing except have the dash light up- Everything lights up-no sound though-turn the key-nothing. After I let it sit and try several times, it will start- but really ragged, I have to hit the fuel pedal heavy- then it decides to run. Only happens when the truck has been running for a bit. Cold starts are perfect- no problem in the least. No matter how cold. ? Thank You
 
You have to describe the problem better and quit using generalities. Be SPECIFIC!!!

Does the engine crank when you turn the key to the start position?? I don't CARE what the dash does, it is just an output device for the ECU. Don't care what noises it makes\doesn't make, that tells nothing. NEED to know if the starter spins and the engine turns over.

If the starter does NOT spin and the engine does NOT turn over you have an electrical problem somewhere. Bad ignition switch, bad TIPM, bad battery cables, etc. The driver side hot cable to the battery is a failure point, it will corrode inside the covering and cause a slow crank, a no crank, an intermittent crank. Did you replace the cable or cut the clamp off to check the cable?

If the starter spins and the engine turns over but will NOT fire you have fuel issues or possible electrical supply to the ECU issues. Back to the cables again, have you checked able ends inside the covering for corrosion and checked the power supply to the TIPM for corrosion? Follow the smaller wires on the driver side hot cable to their destination and pull the connections apart to check for contact. A bad cable will start corrosion and the secondary connections and raise all manner of havoc with starting and running.

Does the starter spin and the engine turn over, and when it does, doe sit spin fast enough or sound like it is dragging?

You should never have to touch the throttle to get the engine to start, if you do you have electrical issues somewhere. Back to battery cables and connections you have to validate all the hot connections are good, the starter feed cable is good, and the passenger side ground cable is good. If you have gone thru at least 1 set of batteries you need to replace the cables or cut the clamps off and use marine clamps.
 
I had an old Dodge van with a 318 that did the same thing. After the engine got up to full operating temp, if I shut down the starter would not work. After sitting for 30 minutes or so, it would fire right up.

The problem was the starter solenoid. The contacts were worn down so that they would not make contact when the starter got heat soaked. I can't remember if I replaced the solenoid or the whole starter, but that fixed the issue.
 
I'm having a somewhat related problem with my truck and in my searching I came across this which might apply to your situation.

K70679999
Vehicle Issue No Start, Unable to communicate with ECM and possibly other modules => Replace the electronically controlled viscous drive fan clutch;Important information There are reports that on some vehicles with the above noted problem that the TIPM is unable to communicate properly. For this reason the TIPM is replaced prior to fully diagnosing the root cause of the problem. This generally results in a bigger problem. If the ECM is also replaced neither replacement module can be programmed until one or the other is programmed. This puts the technician in a loop unless one of the original modules is available. Please stress to technicians that most problems are not caused by multiple module failures and are not corrected by multiple module replacement. If multiple KEY modules such as the TIPM and the ECM/PCM are replaced simultaneously retain the original modules even if an internal defect has been identified until the vehicle has been fixed. A possible No Start condition on 06 Ram trucks with Cummins Diesel engines can be caused by an internal failure of the electronically controlled viscous drive fan clutch. The fan clutch has a battery fed duty cycle solenoid and a speed sense circuit that uses a 5 volt supply. The 5 volt supply comes from the Diesel Engine Control Module (ECM). An internal failure of the clutch allows the battery feed to back feed into the 5 volt feed. This pulls the ECMs 5 volt up to battery voltage. When the problem is present everything within the Cummins ECU that is powered off the 5 volt power supply shuts down. This includes network communication. If the problem appears when the engine is running the vehicle should continue to run. If the problem is present when the engine is off the engine will not start. In addition there is no communication possible with the ECM. This usually leads the technician to incorrectly assume the ECM has failed and should be replaced. Unless the root cause of the problem is identified any replacement ECM will produce the exact same results. If the fan is disconnected the ECM communication / no start problem disappears. No ECU damage has been reported. As a result of the ECM being not responsive and sensor reference voltage being high, several DTCs will likely be present. A very quick check to determine if the fan drive has shorted the K688 18 BR (5 volt feed) to battery voltage is to go the Temperature/Pressure- Intake Sensor on the air box next to the right battery. Back probe the brown wire in cavity 3. The voltage should be 5 volts with the key on but if its 12+ volts the fan drive has likely failed. This circuit is common with the fan drive but this is a much easier access point. If the voltage is high (12+) at the K668 circuit you can disconnect the electronically controlled viscous drive fan clutch 6 way connector at the lower left side of the engine or a much easier approach is to pull the number 6 fuse. Communication with the ECM should be restored and the vehicle should start. This test should be done prior to any assumption that the ECM is faulty.
System or Component No Start;Customer Concern (No DTCs),DTC / Error Message;ECU,Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM);Yes - Continuously
Recommendation Replace the electronically controlled viscous drive fan clutch
 
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