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truck won't start

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Genos filter cap pressure?

Tuner Questions

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my 03 will not start unless you use ether. Then after it stays running fine but if you shut it down it won't start back up. cold or hot it doen't matter it needs to be primed with ether. Thanks in advance.
 
Have you checked the lift pump? Where is yours - back of the filter canister, in the tank, or elsewhere?

If the lift pump is good, it could be a problem in the high pressure fuel system somewhere.

Ryan
 
I had the same problem. I did change the lift pump. That did not cure it. The dealer says it is the #5 injector. Diagnos and repair $1,050. I think I'm getting ripped but what are you going to do
 
Ummm... I have a question. How often do you use ether to start your vehicles? The reason I ask is the fact that ether + grid heaters(or glow plugs) has possibility of a big boom in your intake manifold. Also their is a condition known as "ether babies" where the owners of the vehicle use too much ether and it destroys some of the compression rings. After that the engine will not start without ether.



Just something to think about.
 
I thank you guys for the replies and I'm gathering that it may be a bad injector. The only thing I question is would it run with a bad injector? If it's a bad injector what causes that and how much am I looking at spending? Thanks guys.
 
Thanks for the inputs. I found out that #2 and 4 injectors were bad. $1500

I hope that filters can prevent this in the future but we shall see.
 
I wasn't really sure on mine untill I took it to the dealer, but the strange thing was, I had no DTC:confused:. After I saw the exhaust rockers taken off it made me glad the dealer did the job.
 
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There won't be a code when an injector starts to go bad, I have done over 100 injectors and not one dtc,



You definetly have an injector going bad



Also I have used ether on almost every vehicle I have done injection pumps and used it to find bad injectors and I have never blown an engine up or even had it explode, you don't need a lot of ether to get an engine to start.
 
My #5 injector went bad a month ago. I have since added 2 micron filtration via a VERY SIMPLE to install GDP 2 micron Big line kit! I would suggest that you add better filtration as well.
 
depending on miles accumulated it is some times cheaper in the long run to put in a 6pack. it is less expensive than one at a time.
 
Again I had a hard time starting it today. No codes. I didn't try ether, but after trying it every 15 minutes, it started up 3 hours later (I was cleaning the garage, no big deal). It was 50 degrees out, so not cold at all and good batteries. Only have 40K miles on an '03 ISB-305 HO motor. Truck runs perfectly fine when started. When an injector goes south, does it stick open?

Is there a diagnostic for checking them?



Finally, how difficult are injectors to install and is there a preferred type for an ISB-305? I have a Smarty but don't drive it that hard. Any preferred vendors? Sounds like simple questions, but I know little of this common rail (other than I like it)



Thanks!



It could be an injector hanging, FCA malfunction, or rail pressure relief valve. You just have to check them and see if you can find a problem. The FCA and rail relief can be checked on the vehicle and are easy to replace. The injectors will need to be removed and sent to a Bosch service center or somebody that has the abillity to check and rebuild.



F1 diesel is the premier place for tuning them up and getting better tips. Industrial Injection and Scheids Diesel can also do them.



The injectors take a bit to remove but getting the transfer tubes hooked up and torqued correctly is the hardest part. If that is messed up there can be serious consequences and lots of problems.
 
Most People Know It Is A Bad Injector Or Injectors, If Or When The Truck Starts, ( But Runs Great When Started ) Usually Leads To The Bad Injector Issue, Several People Have Had This Problem, Not Saying That Is The Case Everytime, But It Usually Is, You Are Right Go Through The Process Of Elimination First... :)
 
I thought you had your injectors replaced, they should of done an injector return test, and most likely replaced all 6, and once again you won't have a code when an injector goes bad
 
I thought you had your injectors replaced, they should of done an injector return test, and most likely replaced all 6, and once again you won't have a code when an injector goes bad
, true, the injectors are most likely to fail on the return side, and yes, no code unless its an electrical failure on the injector... :)
 
Most People Know It Is A Bad Injector Or Injectors, If Or When The Truck Starts, ( But Runs Great When Started ) Usually Leads To The Bad Injector Issue, Several People Have Had This Problem, Not Saying That Is The Case Everytime, But It Usually Is, You Are Right Go Through The Process Of Elimination First... :)



My, my! They just KNOW its an injector causing hard starts and rough idle, huh?



Kinda like every one KNOWS BFG's cause DW... . hmmmmmmm??? :-laf:-laf





Injectors are definitely one source, but, there are others that are just as common or more so. A search here and on about any board will show that if you dig deep enough. In fact, there is a thread over on the Cumminsforum with the exact same symptoms on 3 different trucks. Two have what is obviously bad rail pressure reliefs and the 3rd is looking that way also.



Don't shoot the messenger here, but, before I would even think about injectors there other items that will cause the SAME symptoms and have been proven so. :)
 
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