truck won't start!

[Kerben]

Hello everyone,

Well, I'm having an issue with my truck not starting. Everything was fine yesterday, but when I tried to start it today, it would turn over, but not fire. I'm not any sort of mechanic, but it seems like there is some kind of wire or sensor loose or disconnected. Thats the only thing I can think of that would make it not want to start all of a sudden. Is there something else I should look at?







93' D250 extended cab with flatbed

 

[JDancoe]

The four most simple problems I've seen:
Any chance you are out of fuel? Don't trust the fuel gauge. If there is any doubt, put 5 gal. in.

Try turning the key just enough to crank the engine. I've personally seen four instances of worn ignition switches in older vehicles, two in my own vehicles, that would allow the switch to turn beyond the ignition contacts. Then, sometimes when you released the key the engine would catch & start running.

Also, check the connection on/at the fuel solenoid at the rear of the fuel pump. Sometimes they come loose, or the wire fatigues and breaks. Remember, these trucks are 20 years old.

Possibly a bad fusible link. When you turn the switch to "On" do all your other accessories, radio, heater blower work? If not, I'd check the fuse links.

These are the 4 most simple things I can think of. Beyond these, you are going to need to start checking/tracing circuits.

Hope this helps, jack Dancoe

 

[Kerben]

Thanks for the response, Jack.

I now I have fuel
I tried turning the key just enough and theres not really any play in it.
The connections on the fuel pump seem to be ok.
All my accessories and radio come on when I turn the ignition to the "on" position.

I'll have to keep checking wire connections in the morning when I have some light. I have had one of the connections on the fuel pump come loose before and took me awhile to realize it.

 

[JDancoe]

Well, then, back to the basics. Fuel, Air, spark.
You can pretty much forget Air. Even with the turbo locked up, you would get enough air to run, if poorly.
Spark/Ignition - Check for power at the fuel solenoid with the ignition on, with test light or voltmeter. or put a jumper wire on from a known good 12V power source .
Fuel - Crack an injection line at the injector, crank the engine and see if fuel sprays;
If Yes - not a fuel problem, also not a fuel solenoid.
If No - Check solenoid, fuel filter, fuel pump, especially check lines and connections for air leaks. Note, even if the fuel lift pump is bad, the VE pump will serve as it's own lift pump, unless it is sucking air, or is totally kaput.
Is your fuel system stock? extra fuel tank, selector valve, Aux. filter, etc.
Jack Dancoe

 

[DVolk]

Id try a jumper wire from the battery to the pump and see what happens .

or take a can of WD40 or starting fluid and give it a littel shot near the vent air of the air

cleaner and see if she lights off . Is the air filter real dirty ? My 92 bleeds down and cranks before it fires , im certain that one of the plastic lines is probally leaking at the lift pump area or the tank , id bi-pass that stupid connector if i can figure out a easy way to go around the factory plastic connector

 

[JDancoe]

Donovan,
I've used two ways to get around the O. E. M. connector.
#1 Remove the screw-in nipple at the fuel pump, cut the quick connector of the line, and replace them with brass compression fittings. Don't forget to put the small sleeve in the end of the tube to prevent collapse.
#2 At tank end. Cut off the Quick Connect coupler from the line and use a piece of rubber hose and clamps. Kind of a PITA to do, because you either need to drop the tank or lift the bed to access the tank pickup/sender unit. I extended the rubber hose and used Push-Lok hose end connectors to attach to my primary filter installed on the frame.
Jack Dancoe

 

[Kerben]

I cracked the first injector and cranked the engine and the its definitely getting fuel.
Went through and cleaned all the electrical connects I could see.
Sprayed a shot starter fluid in the air intake.

And Success!

Not sure what exactly did it, but its running as good as ever.

Thanks for info Jack and Donovan!

 

[DVolk]

my guess is a shot of air in it , but who knows ????

Thanks Jack , yes the tank is a pain i replaced the sending unit right after i bought my truck , not fun

 

[JDancoe]

Kerben,
Glad to hear you got it running!
But I agree with Donovan, I think you have an air leak into the fuel system. How long did it sit since the last time you had driven it?
Most of the fuel system is at or above tank level, so fuel won't necessarily leak out from gravity. If there is a small air leak, it can allow the fuel to seep back into the tank, especially if the tank is not full. The shot of ether would let the engine start, and the fuel pump would overcome the leak, if it was small. Did the engine run smooth on start-up or stammer a little?
I know it's running now, but I like to know what caused a problem, so I can prevent it happening again.
Jack Dancoe

 

[Kerben]

Jack,
I think you could be right. Although, it had only been over night since the last time I had it running. I took it in to town to today after I got it running again to run a few errands. I noticed when I was at a stop light or just in idle, it would run smoothly for about 10 sec and then would have a small quick stammer and then run smoothly again for about another 10 sec. It would keep doing this pretty regularly. Seems like it would be a fuel issue, but I really don't know too much. Thanks
Karl Erben

 

[DVolk]

that almost sounds like a weak lift pump , or glogged fuel filter

 

[JLEONARD]

Starter fluid is a bad thing to use on a diesel. WD 40 is better.

IF the grid heater actuated, the starter fluid could go bang. I know it's not that cold, but get used to using WD 40 for a diesel, not starter fluid.

 

[JDancoe]

J, - Your'e definitely right about the starter fluid. On our trucks, I believe there is actually a decal warning against it's use. I cringed when I saw Karl's comment about using it. Fortunately, no harm done-THIS Time.
Karl & Donovan, fuel pump and/or filter is a possibility. how old is the fuel pump? Most people I know think 60-70K miles is about max. I get more on mine, but I run a primary (Suction Side) separator/filter on my trucks, with an electric booster pump. Which keeps dirt out, and reduces the work the stock pump has to do.
Geno's has a stock replacement, $42. 00 P/N HFP-27. The filter? Could depend on how long since last changed (A maintenance issue) or, possibly some contaminated fuel.
Karl, did the problem start just after getting fuel? I noted you said you knew it had fuel.
Jack Dancoe

 

[Kerben]

Jack,
Thats good to know about the starter fluid... I guess am fortunate. I'm not too sure how old the fuel pump is, but I did change the fuel filter about 6 months ago. The truck reads just over 200,000 miles, but I know that isn't accurate. My odometer is running fast along with my speedometer, which is problem I havnt quite figured out yet. I bought the truck about 7 months ago and it had about 190,000 miles on it and I didn't have a whole lot of info on what work was done and when. As far as fuel, I did fill the truck up with fuel the day before I started having problems.
Karl Erben

 

[DVolk]

If its a new place you been to you might of got a slug of water did you drain the filter ?

If do need to use starting fluid the lubricated stuff is best but i IF I have to use it i have either some one hit the swich and very sarsely spray it or just a minor squirt near the air filter and its just a tad bit but WD40 is much better on them

 

[DVolk]

I forgot to add if you hit your switch fast enough the grid heater wont come on or you can disconnect it as well temporarly

 

[Kerben]

Just drained the filter and there was a bit of water in there with a little slug.

 

[JDancoe]

Karl,
Oh, boy. That is not good news. I would suggest you check it daily, because you probably have a substantial amount of water and contaminants in the tank. You will probably have to remove the tank and clean it.

I know a guy who is shop foreman in a diesel fuel injection shop. He has told me that 9 out of 10 pumps they repair are a result of contaminated fuel. (Which, incidentally, is not covered by warranty. )

Repair or replacement of your VE pump can approach the $1000. 00 range, depending on where you live.

Good luck, Jack

 

[DVolk]

You say "slug" as in the slimy ones that you pour salt on ? if so id really check your fuel source or check your tank some thing is not right or some one pulled a prank on you !!!

 

[RSchwarzli]

May I suggest at minimum, go under truck, pop off the full neck (cant go down the fill neck due to check ball) and siphon out the fuel into a clear container and start fresh? A look at the fuel that came out will tell you if you need to drop the tank or not. If you also have access to a camera scope can always stuff that in at that point to see why you are dealing with.

And if you are at that point, it you have the time, drop the tank. I not, put fresh in, change fuel filter, run a tank or two through, then change filter again.