Archived Truck won't start

[DWJoy]

Truck spins normal but seems like it is not getting fuel. How can I check the selinoid and where is it? What else could it be? It is a 98 12 valve.

 

[Sticks]

The shutdown solenoid is mounted on the injection pump. Should be pulled in, in the start/run position. Check your fuses and relays in the PDC under the hood.

Are you sure you are getting fuel? The 12v fuel transfer pump/heater were notorious for getting leaks and letting the fuel bleed back to the fuel tank. If you disconnect the wire harness plug going into the fuel heater and it's wet - you are in need of replacing it, especially so if the plastic is burnt and melted.

 

[BigPapa]

The first thing to do would be to put fuel in the tank, even if you filled it recently. A friend of mine's father went so far as to replace an INJECTION pump on his truck because of a no start issue. He was traveling, had just filled up, and had stopped at a hotel overnight. Finally figured out someone had drilled a hole in his fuel tank and drained it.

Second, check the shut-off solenoid.

It pulls the shut-off lever UP. Attempt to start it, and leave the key in the on position. Get out and see if the lever is UP. If not, push it up and see if it stays. If so, it's probably the relay.

Third, loosen the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter and pump the primer button on the fuel transfer pump until you get fuel leaking at the banjo bolt. Tighten the banjo bolt carefully, just good and snug, it will break easily. Attempt start.

If it hits at all, you have a fuel supply problem, most likely a leak. Possible but very unlikely, a failed transfer pump.

 

[DWJoy]

I switched relays and it did no good but I held up the solenoid and some one else start it and it runs. I guess that means it is bad. Can it be cleaned or just replaced? The boot feels like it is torn. NAPA wants $640 but I see Geno has it for $110. Would these be the same part? Seem's like a big difference to me for the same part.

 

[Sticks]

Verify that you are getting voltage at the solenoid before you buy one. There is still circuit protection in there - fuse, relay, fuseable link...

No power, no solenoid.

 

[BigPapa]

The boot's not needed. Mine hasn't had one for over 300K miles.

Which relay did you change? There's one on the firewall and one in the PDC.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Have someone turn the key to "start" position look to see if the rod to fuel shutoff solenoid went up. If it did not go up check relay on cowl/firewall (large one) and /or you should have fuse in PDC.

Turn key to "run" podsition pull rod up see if it stays up. If not check wires and fuses. If they check out you probably need new FSS.

Geno's FSS should work fine many members have uses it.

 

[DWJoy]

fuseable link was burnt so I replaced it and relay and solenoid from Geno's and it works great. Scott helped me a lot with how to test and install. Thanks to you all and Scott I am back on the road.

 

[Sticks]

Glad to hear you got her running again. Hang on to that old solenoid. Might be burned out (ergo the fuseable link got fried). There are ohm specs for the coil I'll see if I can find them. Might be shorted to the case as well.