Here I am

Truck wont start

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Really cold weather battery needed

Dead eco.

Made the mistake of trying to run her in the extreme cold, had her plugged in all day, still got a wait to start which is not normal unless very cold. She started right off, went up to the house, came back, heard her chugging a bit, looked at fuel gauge and 0 PSI so I shut her down. Total run time, maybe a minute. chugging, maybe 20-30 seconds.
Today was warmer, so I just bumped the starter and saw 20psi so tried starting. Nothing. She spun over fine but didn't catch at all.
Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
 
Without truck info nobody is going to be able to accurately help you.

Ok, 01.5.

At any rate if the truck didnt stall it should start up. But to be sure you can crack the fuel line loose at the inlet of the VP44 and bump the starter (don't crank).
If you have good flow of fuel there you'll need to tighten that line and crack injector lines loose and have an assistant crank the engine over while you watch for fuel to come out. Once fuel is present at the injector line stop, tighten, loosen the next injector and repeat. If the truck happens to start with an injector line loose have them shut it down before you tighten the line.
 
Last edited:
I considered that it seemed like she had air in the injectors, but with fuel in the tank, and shut down running (if chugging), I couldn't figure out how air could get in there. I checked for fuel return by bumping the starter to make the pump fire and listened inside the fuel fill and heard splashing, so I know fuel is flowing.
Will try to get someone over to assist and give that a shot. Thanks!
 
You can crank that engine until you burn the starter up or kill the batteries, or both. With mechanical injectors (which you have) if you do not bleed the air out of the system your urinating on a proverbial forest fire. Injectors are designed to "pop" at a set pressure which sprays fuel into the cylinder. In order for this to happen the line between the injection pump and injector must be free of air, solid fuel, the injector pump is then and only then able to build the necessary pressure to pop the injector and spray fuel into the cylinder. Its essentially a hydraulic function. Air is not capable of compressing in the same way fuel is - hence the injector does not pop and spray fuel into the cylinder. By cracking the injector lines loose at the highest point possible and cranking the engine over you are purging the air from the system and allowing the fuel lines to be completely filled with fuel. Only after this happens will your fuel system operate the way it is designed.
 
I only cranked a few seconds, she has never failed to pop off on a crank and a half, and she was plugged in so no grid heater drain on the batteries.
I just cant figure how air could get in there, it's a sealed system. I was not low on fuel, she was running when I shut her down, if chugging a bit, so where could the air have come from? Working on getting a pal to help crack the lines.
 
Just changing the filter can introduce air.

Cracking the injectors will at least tell you if you are getting fuel to that point. Ive bled them my self many a time but it does require a lot of back and forth trips.
 
I'm wondering if when she was getting restricted fuel if perhaps a few injectors didn't suck some air back in the last time they popped? I get it with the fuel filter but all the issues were prior to the system being opened.
 
I've occasionally run my fuel so low that while in my driveway (about a 4 degree grade) it'll start and after running about 20-30 seconds it dies. As well I've run it out of fuel to the point where there's not enough in the tank to get suction and I've also let off the throttle to abruptly when at WOT and the sucked air then the truck just dies and gives all the indicators of "no fuel".

Some years back, I read on the TDR, that you can do the following (once you have enough fuel in the tank or, in my case roll the truck to level ground so the fuel in the tank levels out enough to get suction):
  1. Jog the ignition switch (just enough to bump the engine and let it go back to Accy. position), observe the fuel psi gage, doing so powers the LP relay for roughly 30-45 seconds (more or less, I forget the actual length of time) you'll hear it run for a period of time, you may have to jog several times until you see the psi at the typical reading, of course until the pump cycles off/times out.
  2. This part sounded odd to me for a diesel of our vintage, but it worked! Hold the go pedal to the floor while cranking the engine, do not crank engine for longer than 25-30 seconds (max). Allow a few minutes (3-4) for the starter, associated wires to cool down. Re-jog the ignition making sure the psi goes to typical psi and repeat cranking (with pedal to the floor). I've had to do this as many as 7-8 times before the engine will fire. Very important to allow the cool down time between cranking sessions or you could over-heat the starter, wires etc.
  3. Once it fires immediately release the go pedal, it'll run very rough until all injectors and ports have fuel. Do "not" try to pump or return the go pedal to the floor once it fires. It may only run for 3-4 seconds and die again, typically it'll run rough for about 30 seconds or so, but if it starts and only runs for a few seconds repeat above.
She'll eventually fire and stay running, although rough for a while, then clear up and idle as usual.

Another note:
With the unusual cold we've had read recently I've read quite a few posts on; won't start, started but died and can't get running again and the like. I've had a few weird instances over the last few years when there were long cold soaks overnight soaks, both instances were with or without the block heater plugged in. She'll fire right up and I can leave it idling to warm up a bit, then out of nowhere it'll start running rough and/or just stop running. Most recently the truck had been running for almost 15 minutes (5 in the driveway and 10 or so while I was getting coffee inside the local coffee stop), after getting in and getting settled for my 2 hour trip, checked the psi & other gages and all was well, the engine and trans temp gages were off the bottom/stop pin on the gage and the heat was starting to work. I then drove the 5 miles to the TPK entrance (running fine as usual) once it was up to speed (70-75) I hit the cruise and drove another few miles. Then out of nowhere it started to sort-of miss a little, then to my horror is just started loosing power and slowing down. Of course I was about 2-3 miles from the next exit and only able to maintain 30-35 mph, I had to pull off and hope it would clear up, it didn't and almost didn't want to stay running. BTW: I do use anti-gelling additive in the winter months as well as an everyday treatment year-round to help keep that $1000 VP lubricated. As I sat there on the side of the TPK I noticed the fuel psi was at "0"?! How could this happen, pump just decided to go???? I figured what must have happened was; condensation will accumulate in the tank and since oil/fuel is lighter than H20 it collected and was sucked thru the line up to the LP (pusher in my case) pump or inlet of the VP and froze to the point of restricting the inlet. I cursed myself for not having the ½ quart of Diesel 911 in the truck, which I had to use last year when it just stalled in the driveway after running a few minutes. So I hobbled along the breakdown lane and then on to home, all the time (approx. 20 minutes) I kept observing the psi gage still at 0. Arrived home, left truck idling (still rough like only firing on a few cylinders), dumped the remaining 911 in the tank and hobbled down the road from the house and let it idle as I watched the psi gage. After only a minute or so I noticed the gage bounce once and then go right to normal operating psi "and" the engine smoothed right out. I drove off and she was running as good as ever. I picked up 2 quarts of 911 and now keep 1 in the glovebox and one in the garage.

I hope the 1, 2, & 3 above, as well as the 911, helps someone. Both have worked for me...
 
Back
Top