Here I am

Archived Truck won't start

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Archived cracked block

Archived Rear diff fluid color.... help!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Just did a injector and clutch install and can't get the truck to start. Cracked the linesw and turned it over for an hour intermittantly and I won't start. No white smoke after the very first cranking sequence, tried WD40 into the intake post grid heater and no results. Any suggestions need help have some educated hands helping me but to no avail Why me:(





Jared



I will take any call suggestions also at (512)689-6977
 
JaMan,

I would start further back for bleeding fuel system. Try bleeding at fuel filter first.

The manual for my Freihgtliner (24 v,vp144) says to crack the bolt for injectors to bleed, which worked when I ran out of fuel and once when my mechanic changed out the fuel filter.



But I thought I read on the 24 valve forum that you can bleed the air out at the banjo bolt on the vp144 fuel pump. This would be the second place to bleed if truck did not start. (12valver's also as 2nd alternative bleed at injector pump).



The third would be at injectors. My freightliner would start usually with cracking open the second injector, but it was new and fuel pump was strong. Not a whole lot of air in system.



You should only crack one at a time, which I'm sure you did.
 
Loosen the banjo bolt on the VP44 and BUMP the starter to let the LP run for it's 30 second cycle. Once you have fuel coming out of banjo (no bubbles) tighten it back up.



Since you just did an injector install, remove the intake hat and crack open the 1 - 5 injector line nuts where they go into the head. Three or four turns is good. Now bump the starter again and tighten the injector nuts as the fuel starts flowing out around them. This may take 4 or 5 bumps. Typically you can get the truck started with only 3 bled out, but try for all 5. You may also have to wiggle the injector lines a little to hep it.



Once you have tightened them all back down to specs, with the intake hat off, start the truck, when it fires, do not help it. Let it smooth out on its own before you shut her down and attach the intake hat.
 
It's also entirely possible that his lift pump is dead. If you crack one of those bleed screws and nothing pumps after you bump the starter, you need a lift pump. Did you do a filter change at the same time? You may just have too much air in the system.
 
Originally posted by MidwestMotorman

It's also entirely possible that his lift pump is dead. If you crack one of those bleed screws and nothing pumps after you bump the starter, you need a lift pump. Did you do a filter change at the same time? You may just have too much air in the system.



You know, I was going to ask that, then my coffee pot said it was done and spaced it.



You will hear the LP running once you bump the starter. If it is silent under the hood, you need a new LP. Check the connection (electrical) first by unplugging it it then plug it back in. They sometimes get a little dirty and loose contact.
 
Lift pump is still good as it has 15psi after the prime when you turn over the key, mayhave just got a enourmous amount of air in because I started the change and it was late so I finished the next morning, A cummins tech said to crack each line at a time till fuel comes out then close off then crack 3-4 and try to start and when it startsclose off 3 and wait to run then close off 4, tried to work on it last night at 2:30 but it was too many beers to late and Charlen wanted to get some sleep. Try again today.





Jared
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top