Trying to install an Aux. in bed combo fuel box

[Tagalong]

Thanks to sdalton and several other members I've got a pretty good idea how to install an RDS Aluminum combo fuel box in the bed. I've been to several NAPA stores and when I talk to them about purchasing fuel pumps or switching valves to do what I want, all I get is the, "that ain't legal" line! I also cannot seem to find any part numbers in my search for the fuel pump or switching valve, and inline filter. If any of you have part numbers or a picture of your set up it would be greatly appreciated. I'd also like to hear what constitutes a "legal" inbed combo fuel box set up?

Thanks

 

[Okie-Go]

I may be wrong and apologize if I am but I think it is illegal to have the ones that you turn on a pump or let it gravity feed from the in bed tank to the oem fuel tank. Again, I may be wrong but this is my perception ot it. I have the aux tank and just flip a switch and it uses from it. Like on trucks with two tanks, I use from one at a time. One is empty, flip the switch and use the other one. The gauge does work on both of them.

 

[Ramboy]

Just go to Auto Zone and tell them you want their cheap generic electric fuel pump--about $40. It works great but you have to put a shut-off valve in the line between the tank and the pump because even after you shut the pump off, it will continue to siphon at a slow rate.

 

[juicedcummins]

Try jc whitney for the 6 port 3/8 supply and 5/16 return. You can even get a gauge there for you aux that will switch with the tanks.

 

[Paychk]

I've been to several NAPA stores and when I talk to them about purchasing fuel pumps or switching valves to do what I want, all I get is the, "that ain't legal" line!

I'm puzzeled by this, because I used to work manufacturing aux fuel tanks back in the late 70's and we used 3 & 6 port tank selector valves. In fact you can get them through JC Whitney and other places.



http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=4660&BQ=jcw2



They are right about gravity feed tanks (DOT regs) but the selector valves are perfectly legal soulution. In fact we set them up to be electically controled by a switch and it also controlled which fuel level sender was connected to the gage.



IMHO I really wonder about the quality of counter help that even NAPA has now a days.

 

[Tagalong]

Great information!

Thanks for all your information folks!

juicedcummings and/or paychk I'm not familiar with the Pollak motor driven fuel tank selector valve, does it take the place of a fuel pump? Or is it added in line to the fuel pump?

I'm also still kinda confused about how the main tank fuel fill line and vent lines are spliced in.

Sorry for all the questions. I just don't want to drill any holes into the Ram bed until I've got a handle on how everything is installed.

Thanks again,

Tagalong

 

[juicedcummins]

The valve is spliced in before the pump on the frame under the bed. You will need a tubing cutter to splice into the factory line. and some good quality fuel line in 5/16 + 3/8.

You can also get a gauge from JC that you can mount in the top of your tank.

Don't forget you will need a vent line for the aux tank. I used a 3/8 inline gas fuel filter up under the bed rail above the level off the tank as high as you can go.

This setup doesn't drain into the factory fuel tank.

You will need at least 3 outlets on your aux tank to make it work. 3/8 for suply, 5/16 for return and one for a vent 3/8 or 5/16.

This would be a good time to install a pusher pump or at least slide back the factory lift pump as close to the valve a possible.

 

[rrausch]

I have an "illegal" tank. I got a 45 gal aux. tank from Aero tank, in Corona, Ca. , and put it in myself. I went to NAPA and got a 12-volt fuel selector switch and a big fuel filter/water separator and got a Diesel-rated 12-volt pump from Engler Bros. Auto Supply. I have an on/off switch and a green led indicator light mounted on my gauge pod, at eye level. When the tank gets about 1/4 down, and I am about 15 min. away from a stop I turn the switch on. So far I've had it for about 8,000 miles now and have not yet over-filled the tank so that it has leaked appreciably. Twice I overfilled it just a little bit, but caught it really quickly. You DO have to be responsible with this set-up. Mine is wired so that it is only on when the key is on. I did this so I wouldn'i walk away and forget it was running.



One thing I LOVE about this set-up is that most of my fuel is filtered twice now. Once through the big NAPA filter and again through the stock Fleetguard filter.



And I AM saving money on fill-ups, but it is a slow payback. Worth it though, IMHO.

 

[Tagalong]

Thanks guys!

juiced, your set up sounds excellent. However, I got the impression many folks are placing the fuel pump, separator valve and filter in the bed with the tank and running lines into the main fill and vent lines. I know one member ran two lines into the vent on the main tank by a made-up double Tee. To be honest with you that's kinda what I'd like to do, but if I don't get good vibes (for safety) with that set-up I just won't bother.

I also wondered about the set-up you describe. Fuel will remain in the line to the fuel pump located on the frame rail. If the hose (or line) between the bed tank and the main gets cut wouldn't it empty itself on the ground? That's why I thought that if the valve, F. pump and filter were mounted (or caged) securely in the bed the lines will be clear should they get cut or damaged.

rrausch, thanks for your ideas. I'd like to know where and how you mounted and transfer your fuel into the main tank. Your set-up is what I've been hearing about. I'm just not sure about proper venting.

Thanks again all!

Tagalong

 

[juicedcummins]

There is more than one way to do this. You can add what I call a stand pipe from the top of your tank to suck from. I braxed a piece of brake line into a brass fitting. That would take away your worries of a cut line and fuel loss. The other way is a fitting on the bottom of the tank with the risk of a cut line.

I have 2 tanks out the on the road and one is hooked up each way and they both work well. My mighty ram is gravity fed and I'm the only driver so a fuel leak from a cut line is quickly cured by a pare of vice grips. {never happend yet}

The cheapest way and the easiest way is to fill in the vent and forget the pullak valve. I went the other way for other reasons.

One more thing the ecm in the ram doesn't believe the fuel level when the tanks are changed on the fly so you have shut the key off to straightin it out.

Another drawback of the switched tank is you canot use all of your fuel unless you build some kind of a sump in the tank. With a line that pumps into the vent you can use 100% of the aux fuel.

 

[rrausch]

Vent? We don' need no stinkin' vent...

Seriously... although I didn't hook up a vent when I installed my set-up, I am going to now, after reading these posts. I do use a non-locking vented cap, but the more I think about it, the more I want some sort of filtering material between the inner tank and the outer air.



I mounted my tank as far to the passenger side of the bed as possible, and this allowed a space of about 10" X 8" on the driver's side, beside the tank, for storage of Stanadyne lubricity formula and drilling holes to mount the pump etc. I drilled a 1 1/8 inch hole through the bed and used a grommet to protect the fuel line.



I mounted my solonoid selector switch and the pump to the underside of the bed, drilling 1/4" holes through the bed for the bolts and then covering the tops of the bolt heads with undercoating to mimic the sprayed-in bedliner. I mounted the NAPA filter/separator to the inner fender between the frame and the outer fender. Then I drilled a hole into the filler tube, stuck a piece of brake line into the hole and when I was getting my ATS trans re-build I asked the guy welding the TC to weld my filler tube too. They were happy to do so, (after I removed it) and then I just connected the system up.



One of the reasons I went with the Aero tank is that if I ever get busted and forced to change it, I can change it to a full Aux. tank. The other reason I went with Aero is that I could drive there and get it without paying truck freight charges.