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Trying to Level Truck & 5er

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7 wire pig tail questions

Dexter Nev-R-Adjust inspection and R&R

We bought our 2016 2500 CCSB 4X4 and it came with a Curt A20 and are bags. The previous owner was towing a 38 ft 5er and decided to switch to a MH.

So we went looking for a 5th wheel and bought a 2014 Keystone Sprinter (269FWRLS) in great condition. I did not think it would be a problem mating these two units until we hooked up for the first time and I noticed the nose is too high...by about 4-5 inches. The axles are already under the springs. I have looked online and the Keystone Forum....and I have heard either adding updated "equalizers" and "hangers" or "spacers" ($200-400) and even changing to 16" tires and rims ($1000) - to have a spring shop build a "Sub-Frame" ( $1500-2000)

I am a firm believer in safety first (my grandkids will be traveling with us). Just looking for some real life experience from anyone who had the same issue.
 
On our 5er with our new truck (well at the time new truck) had the same issue. I added a subframe. No idea where you are but I found a local trailer shop that did a 3 inch subframe for $740.00 and that included some cross bracing. So shopping around for that may yield some better results than the $1500-$2000 I also added 16 inch wheels and tires. Yes that was a bit over $1k. I used Sendel Wheels (same brand and style that was on the trailer just a larger size) and found them for just under $100 each and new Goodyear Endurance tires which were in the neighborhood of $125 ea and cant remember if that was with the rebate or not which was $200 on the set. I bought 5 of each so I could replace the spare as well. I also sold the old tires and wheels on Craigslist for $250.00, they only had about 2k miles on them so they were in good shape since I bought the trailer just the year before we bought the new truck
There is something out there called correct trak I think by Moryde that is supposed to give you 2ish inches. I couldn't add the 16 inch tires without some sort of lift as I did not want the tires rubbing on the bottom of the wheel wells. It turned out to be fine I am still a bit nose high but it is about an inch and am not concerned about that. I didnt want it any higher than needed due to clearance issues as our trailer was already 12'+tall.
 
Thank you BarryG.....We are in the Tucson, AZ area. I have called two spring shops and they were giving me estimates over the phone, but said they would have to see it first, so maybe I will do more shopping around per your suggestion. Yes I agree with not going to high. We are at 12' 6" and want to only add 4" to stay under 13'. I saw the correct track, which is a bolt on system. Not sure that with the 16" tires and rims will get me to the 4", my pin box and hitch are both adjusted to their limits, so I have to raise the trailer. Thx again
 
You never told us how much bed clearance you have. It could be something as simple as adjusting the hitch or the trailer tongue.
 
You never told us how much bed clearance you have. It could be something as simple as adjusting the hitch or the trailer tongue.

If you mean between the bed and the 5er....about 7 inches. The Curt A20 is as low as it can go and the king pin was moved up to the highest mounting holes. Thank you
 
On our 5er with our new truck (well at the time new truck) had the same issue. I added a subframe. No idea where you are but I found a local trailer shop that did a 3 inch subframe for $740.00 and that included some cross bracing. So shopping around for that may yield some better results than the $1500-$2000 I also added 16 inch wheels and tires. Yes that was a bit over $1k. I used Sendel Wheels (same brand and style that was on the trailer just a larger size) and found them for just under $100 each and new Goodyear Endurance tires which were in the neighborhood of $125 ea and cant remember if that was with the rebate or not which was $200 on the set. I bought 5 of each so I could replace the spare as well. I also sold the old tires and wheels on Craigslist for $250.00, they only had about 2k miles on them so they were in good shape since I bought the trailer just the year before we bought the new truck
There is something out there called correct trak I think by Moryde that is supposed to give you 2ish inches. I couldn't add the 16 inch tires without some sort of lift as I did not want the tires rubbing on the bottom of the wheel wells. It turned out to be fine I am still a bit nose high but it is about an inch and am not concerned about that. I didnt want it any higher than needed due to clearance issues as our trailer was already 12'+tall.

Thank you BarryG....I did some calling around and found a shop that quoted me $750 for the 3" subframe. I will be taking to them on Monday. Did you change to the 16" wheels and tires due to load capacity or to compensate for the height the trailer was raised, or both?
 
I did it for a little extra height, I think I gained going from the oem 245,75,16 to 235,80,16 about 1.5 inches additional height and the extra load capacity as the oem tires were pretty much maxed or at least not as much margin as I would have liked. The larger tires which I couldnt put on without some lift due to clearance between the tire and the top of the wheel well, the diameter changed about 3 inches giving me the 1.5 inches additional height but as a consideration my axle spacing was such that the larger tires obviously made the tires closer together and my x chocks now barely fit in between them but they do fit so I was ok.
On my truck and trailer combo my issue was at the tailgate I only had about 4-4.5 inches of clearance and 6 + up by the front of the 5vr at the bed rails which is fine when pulling down the highway but once you start hitting dips, rr crossings etc not so good now with what I had done I am a solid 6 at the tailgate and a bit over 6 at the front and so far so good
 
How much is the 5er squatting the truck? Are you letting it sag 1-2” and using the airbags to keep it there, or going back to unloaded height?
 
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