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trying to mount fuel filler tube on c&c

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4500 C&C, I made a fenders and a diamond plate bed, flat surface. I can't figure out what to do with the filler tube. I tried mounting it underneith but it is to horizonal to the fuel tank and won't fill. I thought about redirecting it and bringing it up inside the fenders, this would work, but I don't know what material I can use. Can I use PVC? DO I need to use fuel line tube? I worked on this all day and I can't figure out what will work and keep the filler out of the way.
 
I am only speculating, but I wouldn't use PVC. If it were me, I would get second filler hose from the dealer (or a junk yard) and splice them together w/ iron pipe and hose clamps. I installed 2. 25 or 2. 5 in. iron pipe when I spliced into my filler hose on my 02 to run FASS retun line and aux fuel tank.



Can you angle thru the top of flatbed to get enough height to fill the tank?



Let us know what you come up with. Maybe post some pics.



Cheers, Wiredawg
 
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I have an 01. 5 3500 with a deck. I know what you mean about how level the fuel fill line is. When the welder did my deck he found some thin wall tubing that matched and welded that to the filler cap piece. At first when filling I put a block of wood down that I drove onto hold the nozzle just right and then I still had to be careful. Finally I found a piece of hose that just fits into the filler neck and the smaller fill nozzles will fit into. This hose is approved for fuel and is about 10" long. The problem I have now is that I have to hang on to the fuel nozzle when filling and it will not shut off when the tank gets full. I can hear when the fuel starts coming up the neck and slow the flow down and avoid most "environmental hazard spills".

Stan
 
I'm familiar with the issue you are working on.



My new CM flatbed came with two knockout panels on the driver's side of the bed, one forward for a midships fuel tank and one at the rear for the rear tank. I decided not to use the knockout because the fuel filler neck would have to run 2' or more in a horizontal orientation. I thought this would be very inconvenient. It would cause slow filling, splash back running out, and would require holding the fuel fill nozzle for the complete tank fill. . . the fuel nozzle would fall out if left without human assistance.



I had the bed installer cut a perfect circle in the bed deck and run the fill neck verticle from the tank. It works great, fills easy, and I can insert the nozzle and walk away. Using the kit provided with the bed the fill neck is recessed below the surface of the bed deck leaving the bed without obstructions.



New CM beds come with a thin stamped steel "cup" that drops in the opening and, in turn, contains a smaller diameter opening in the bottom of the cup for the fill neck. The package also comes with a length of thin metal tubing, same diameter as the factory fill neck and maybe clamps as well. You might be able to buy the kit from a CM dealer. . . you can call the company and ask for a dealer near or nearest you. CM has a good website. Transfer Flow in Chico CA, a TDR advertiser, also sells the same kit to use as a pass through for owners with tank mounted beds under a camper shell. TF also has an excellent website.



I wouldn't run the fill neck horizontal out to the side of the truck.
 
Thanks for the thoughts, I'm still not sure what I am going to do, I need to get on the road so I think for the time being I will just add something that will work for now
 
Try this web site, HOSE-MAN. They have a large inventory of hoses and will spec out one that will work with diesel fuel then buy a large stainless spring to insert, so the hose wont collapse. I used them when I needed to increase my auto trans lines for the oversized radiator I installed on my 94 2500HD 360 gasser. I changed the radiator to a V10 radiator which required a change in size for the trans in/out lines as well as the coolant lines.
 
The aluminum diamond tread looks great so far. Nice work.



How about just extending the horizontal deck plate six inches in a "C" or "U" shape in a bracket just large enough to surround and support the fill neck? That would be good enough for a temporary support and might even be good enough for a permanent fix.
 
I have a plate I could use for that, Kind of looks funny just sticking out there. the only problem is ,you go to right angle and you will kink the tube. The inlet is about 8" long which causes an issue. I think I need to find a right angle alum. tube that I can tie into and I'll be ok. Options are tough with this thing.
 
machinemover,



I'll be interested to hear how the truck performs when loaded when you have it on the road working.



Please report gross combined weights and weights on the ball and tell us how the 4500 rides and pulls when loaded. There are probably many potential buyers waiting on the sidelines for this information.



As I've said before, I set out to order a 4500 back in January but after driving a couple of them with no bed, hitch, or any weight on the rear axle I was afraid the truck would ride too stiff to be used as a daily driver when I'm not pulling my trailer and ordered a 3500 C&C. I've never had the opportunity to ride in or drive one with a bed, tools, aux fuel tank, or gooseneck trailer loaded.
 
Mounting fuel filler.

That looks good! Would a piece of tube size ????? 3x5x. 125 or 3x6 work to recess and cut to fit to lower the tube height.
 
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