I had a similar problem and traced it down to the crank position sensor. It's an easy fix just remove the starter the three 10 mm bolts are a bear to get out (I replaced mine with metric socket head cap screws) and the sensor is in the block behind and I think above the starter? Can't remember exactly (old age I guess?) It's held in with a clamp with one bolt on it and just a 2 wire plug in. I got mine from Cummins Northwest and it was (I think $55 including shipping) and a $9. 00 core charge. They'll refund the core charge upon return of the old sensor. The sensor just pushes in the block and is sealed by an "O" ring included with the new sensor. I put some grease on the O ring and pushed it in the block installed the bolt and plugged in the wire connector. Viola!! it did the trick. You might want to, while you have the starter out, install "Larry-"B's" contacts in the starter as well. They're about $35. 00 and it's a good time to do it. You can fix both for about $100. If that's not the problem you are probably getting electrical signals that are affecting the shifting and lockup of the conveter. Call Stephan at Diesel Transmission Technology in BC Canada. They sell a noise filter that's an easy install (2 wires) for about $40 US that will filter out the electrical noise that might be causing your converter to lock and unlock. This filter fixed my lock/unlock problem after trying the reflash etc. . Make sure all your electrical plugs and connectors are clean and I put dielectric grease on all mine as they treat the roads up here in the winter with Magnesium Chloride and it will rust the fillings in your teeth if exposed to it. They say it doesn't but I have fisheyes in my stainless panels on the lower body of my truck from this stuff. Hope this helps. AHughes Bend Oregon. 98. 5 3/4T QC 4whl drive. DSS, F1 injectors, Edge Comp, Leer Canopy, AFE.