TST #10 Plate install

[Animal]

I finally installed my TST #10 plate about 2 weeks ago in my newly acquired 97 5spd before make some building material runs from Anchorage to Fairbanks Alaska. As you can see this is rather long but I feel I need to be precise in hopes of helping others in there install.



I followed the directions to the letter, after installing the plate (w/medium AFC spring) I went for a test ride and it smoked like a train on steroids. So following the instruction I cranked and cranked on the star wheel to control the smoke. The star wheel ended up about in the middle of the AFC housing with a little more smoke than I liked, but I need to go get the building materials so I left it for now and went on my way.



The two trips were uneventful for the truck but the trailer lost a wheel, but that is another story. What I noticed on the trips is there is more low RPM smoke (1500 and below) than I like, but I could live with the higher RPM smoke/gray haze (1700 up). The EGT’s never went above 1300 deg. with boost at 34-35 lbs. and all the power I needed to run 65 mph up the hills. The one think I noticed that I didn’t like was the power didn’t come in until around 1700-1800 RPM, not 1400-1500 as I was hoping for.



After the trip I decided to do some adjusting of the AFC housing to alleviate the low RPM smoke and to try to lower the power band. What I did was move the star wheel all the way to the front of the engine and then slid the AFC housing all the way to the back of the engine. I now have no smoke, but also no power either with only about 10-12 lbs. of boost. Next I moved the AFC housing to the middle, which produced no low end smoke and now the power comes in hard at about 1500 RPM with a heavy gray cloud for about 2-3 seconds until boost reaches max (34-35) producing a very light gray haze.



At this setting smoke is controlled and power is there at low RPM’s. Now all I need to do is make another trip to check out max EGT temp. I hope this helps other on there install of a very fine TST product.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The #10 is intended as a "competition" plate and has very little torque control. That means a lot of torque (I dyno'ed it at 860 ft lb on the Dynojet) and not so good smoke control since the engine is less efficient at low rpm and very high power.



Here are the things you can do for better smoke control:

lighter right foot

more clicks on the star wheel

stiffer spring--either the medium TST spring or even the very stiff stock spring

lighter right foot

remove rear view mirrors

put in #11 plate if you aren't old enough for all that power

 

[SLang]

Joe's right. The amount of smoke is directly proportional to the strenght in your right leg. Let up on the stupid pedal a little! Save the smoke for the import behind ya at the light.

 

[Strick-9]

I have a little trick that might help your smoke control problem. I too used to have power AND smoke or no smoke and no power. Having a HOT plate slid forward makes tuning the pump difficult. I tried both springs in the AFC spring kit, but that didn't help at all.



I found that the T- fitting going in to the back of the AFC housing has a small orifice in it. I drilled mine out to over 1/8". That caused MUCH black smoke at first, but then I could adjust the smoke away with the starwheel without losing top end power. I had to reinstall the stock AFC spring because the two in the AFC spring kit are too soft for smoke control with the orifice removed.



I've found the matching fitting with no orifice at Lowe's. Once you find the fitting with the orifice you should be able to buy a similar fitting at the local hardware store for about a buck. This way you don't have to risk ruining your original.



I've done this on two trucks now and it worked great on both of them.



I hope this helps.

-Chris

 

[Animal]

Thanks Strick-9, I'll give that a try if my latest adjustment proves inadequate. I'm heading to Minnesota on the 3rd of July to pick up a Case skid steer and will know if I need to do more smoke control. At this time everything looks good unloaded, but will know more soon.



Thanks again.

 

[mikepvg]

Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

The #10 is intended as a "competition" plate and has very little torque control. That means a lot of torque (I dyno'ed it at 860 ft lb on the Dynojet) and not so good smoke control since the engine is less efficient at low rpm and very high power.

Joe

I realize this is an old post, BUT what mods did you perform to get a dyno to read 860ft-lbs of torque w/ a #10? Especially since a stk engine w/ a #10 is rated for only 570ft-lbs?



Thanks

Mike

 

[Brandon]

all I can say is DAMmmmmm i got my 10 in tonight and the dd's



all i can say it smokesssssssssssssss and hauls but



cant wait for some DV and big turbo

 

[HVAC]

Got Boost???

So what boost levels did you see on the test drive Mr. B... . ?



I would point out that while I was enjoying the test drive as much as you were, we didn't check the boost gauge.



As much fun as it was blowing smoke all over town. And as nicely as your truck is running. I would like to remind you that when I installed that TST #10 plate, I cinched it down in the middle of the slots, not full forward. This means that you have another 35 hp to go with that plate in the forward position!



The injector install went flawlessly with no leaks, runs, or errors



Thanks to Blair for the loan of the injector puller.



B... . you need to update your sig. You now have the 4000 rpm governor springs, stage III injectors, #10 TST camplate.

 

[mikepvg]

I guess I'll answer my own question



The #10 "competion only" plate applies only to the 96-97 pump resulting in 750ft-lbs.

In the 94-95 app it only produces 570.

 

[Big_Bad_Dually]

TST torque plates

<dumb question>

I though that the torque plates were like wire guages... as the number gets smaller more power/ torque. Maybe they do and the #4,5,and six plates are really HOT.

could somebody explain

brian

 

[HVAC]

Different Pumps

Different pumps use different plate number sequences. 12,11,10 are for the 215 pump. The 5 is for the 180 pump, etc. I don't fully understand it.

 

[Swamp Donkey]

I could be mistaken, but I think some specific numbers are for auto and others for stick. That is about all I am going to say, because I am all messed up now.

 

[sewman]

HVAC,is almost right on the older trucks meaning 94&95 the

#4 plate is close to the #10 in a 96,the #5 is alittle less power &

#6 is good on the autos

Bob

 

[HVAC]

Fuel Plates

A local contracter just picked up a nice "98 12v 3500 with a stick, and the first thing we did was to move the plate forward. That was just a temporary measure.



Today I installed a #11 plate and the AFC spring and BOY is it sweet! Very nice low end and when your half way through the gear and the boost is peaking you can really feel it pull hard. Smoke isn't a problem. YET! Time for some injectors



Like what was mentioned above, I use the #6 on the early automatics. They are rated 160 horse I belive. I use the #5 on the early sticks which are rated 180 horse.

 

[Forrest]

#4

And the #5 in the 96 5 speed, moved about 3/4 of the way forward, is approx. 420hp. The #4 may be a little better.

 

[Brandon]

all I can say is OMG



this truck needs some lpg or something







Brandon