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Just installed new TST #11 plate kit. Boost pressure before install (stock) was running around 21 psi max. Now after installing the #11 plate kit and boost fitting, boost pressure remains the same. Any ideas on what is going on? Truck has more power, but seems like it should have more. Any help would be appreciated.



Thanks,



Shane
 
You should have about 35-38 psi on the big end.

did you slide the AFC housing all the way forward?



Did you do anything else to the truck? Like change a turbine housing? Check your clamps to the intake manifold.

Must be leaking somewhere.



Don~
 
is the boost elbow on and is it screwed down???? I just did mine last week and get 38 psi?? need gov springs, deliv valves, inj, 40, and a clutch I think that might be enough

????? you think
 
Showeth:

I am runnin the 370's with the stock plate silghtly forward and my boost goes to 34 psi. I'm glad now the fuel sender gauge is broken. I can't see it fall when I put my foot in it. My rpms shut off at 2900 which I will get to 33. Piers has that fix. I once had a "*******" plate in the truck and the boost would peg at 35 then take off. It came on so hard the mech. was startled, and it was hard to drive, so the stock went back in. I think a TST *6 is what I'm looking for.



Point being, my boost increased with with fuel delivery. I also have a different elbow. I think something is wrong with no more boost than you have. Also did you adjust the star wheel? Move toward the engine, top over, for less spring pressure, and more smoke.



Good luck.



... Preston...



:) :) :) :) :) :) :D :D
 
Boost Woes

All that I did was to install the TST #11 plate kit. No additional mods other than that. I did slide the AFC housing all the way forward. Also, I did install the other fitting to control boost. Adjusted the star wheel (since the power seemed a bit low) TOWARD the engine 12 strokes with a screw driver. Have major smoke initially when I step on the pedal. Also, I adjusted the set screw in the boost fitting in both directions with no luck. Boost levels never moved off of about 21psi. I set this back to the original position. Need more power. :D :D :D Please help!



Shane
 
Ok,



first check to see if you can find a boost leak. Maybe the signal to the wastegate line is broken or you have a charge air leak somewhere. Check all hoses and clamps.



The only other thing that comes to mind is the fuel plate is in there cocked. Sometimes the fuel plate can go in at an angle and end up limiting the rack travel, thus limiting the power output.



My truck was very strong after the #11 plate. EGT's ran high on the big end though. After I slid the plate forward some... ..... she smoked like crazy but, the power was awesome.



We have the same set-up BTW.



Don~
 
Any suggestions on a procedure to use in order to check for leaks on the charge air side? All my clamps appear to be tight. I haven't taken any of the hoses off for inspection, maybe I should. Any recommendations?
 
Once you have checked the big connectors (if you haven't found the problem) You might try the wastegate actuator. I put pressure to mine and found the bellows was blown.
 
I performed a crude pressure test and found some small leaks. The leaks were around the intake opening where the rubber boot is installed. The casting of the round part of the intake was so bad that it wasn't sealing. I removed it and with a die grinder, I was able to make a round surface more conducive to sealing. My boost still only goes to about 21psi however. I did notice that my intake gasket (right above the intake heater), was torn in one corner. I'll replace it and try again. Regarding the wastegate bellows. How could this make you loose boost? Isn't the wastegate spring loaded to the open position until enough boost starts to shut it down? If it was blown, it seems to me that it would just allow your boost to climb up to the limits of the turbo.
 
I am in the Dallas area right now and I have a wastegate actuator you can have if ya need one.

I took mine off when I replaced my turbine housing. It was working when I took it off.



Don~
 
hey showeth when I first bought my truck it was down on power and after 2 different dealers doing diagnostics that gave me bogus information, the second told me my turbo was bad because it had low boost pressure only about 8psi, they wanted to replace it for $1600. 00, so I pulled it off and took it to a very good turbo shop close to home and found out the turbo was fine but the wastegate actuator was blown and was losing air and they told me that the escaping air from the airenoid (or however you spell it) would cause a decrease in fuel as a safety precaution, because with no pressure working the actuator and opening the wastegate the boost would go beyond factory specs. , the turbo shop only charged me $60. 00 for a new actuator, I could only assume they were right in what they told me because it seem to fix it... ... ... ... .
 
Yes you can lose boost thru the wastegate actuator. Yes the gate stays closed. Mostly unrelated issues. The boost signal is always there and if the bellows is blown in the actuator (mine was) you will lose boost. you check it by disconnecting the actuator line and putting 20 lbs of pressure to it. This will move the wastegate to the open position. If the actuator leaks you will definitely hear the air.
 
To test, I disconnected the acutator line from the AFC housing and plugged the port going into the AFC housing. This should allow the boost to go as high as the turbo can make it go, right? Still no change. 21 psi max.
 
If you have a regulated air source you can set at 21 PSI you can check the actuator this way. Apply the pressure and the wastegate should open. Even a little higher pressure would be fine. Too much though and the actuator could blow out.

If you hear air escaping the actuator you have a problem.



Do you see alot of smoke on acceleration? Did you slide the AFC housing forward? Is the cam plate installed straight and not cocked either direction? Have you checked your overflow valve?



Don~
 
Yes, unless by some chance the wastegate got stuck in the open position. If you have a service manual they have a pretty good description for troubleshooting.
 
Here's an update guys. I checked every possible place for leaks and found none. I checked the waste gate actuator, worked fine, no leaks. Checked my pressure guage to make sure it was reading properly, it did. (Love the guages by the way, Auto Meter Ultra Lites, Pyro & Boost):D:D Changed the intake gasket that was just barely torn and poof, 34psi of boost. Guess a little goes a long way when trying to make boost. Should I be getting a little more than this, or is this satisfactory? Power is a little better but still want more. :cool: Will sliding the plate forward help without hurting mileage too much? Thanks for all the help guys!



P. S. Time to go see my uncle and his new Powerchoke Ford Super Dukee.
 
Allright, got her runnin right.

Your fuel plate is centered if you installed it in the stock location.

Right now you are at 280 HP give or take a few.

That plate will give you up to 340 if you slide it forward all the way.

I got 326HP with mine slid just a little forward and a 16 housing. Sliding the plate to far can cause gov. damage.

Watch the EGT's on the truck close. I got real hot fast with the same set-up you have.

It will smoke a ton too! After I slid mine... the smoke was rollin out on hot days... I love it!!! I can fill the rice burners up with smoke if their windows are down or the all to common tailgator.







Don~



glad to see some more 12 valves guys around
 
Hey Don,



How far forward is just a tad? What is the best way to measure this? Sorry for all the newbie questions. Just trying to learn. Love this stuff!:D :D :D
 
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