Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) tst fuel plates...

[shorty2500]

#12 - 230/605

#11 - 280/680

#10 - 330/750



which one should i get?



i have no transmission mods. i don't do tractor pulls. i don't race people on the street. i'd just like to increase available power for towing.



if i were to get the #10, and just didn't hit the pedal hard, would i notice the difference? does changing these plates mean it is harder to control acceleration?



i'd like to be able to get the #10 and just keep it light on the pedal until i beefed up the clutch.



btw - i do plan on getting some guages for boost and egt when i do this.

 

[JGheen]

Go for the #10

I would get the #10 plate. It is the most versatile plate and bang for the buck. That plate in combo with the 3K GSK is a great addition to any 12v. And since you are running the NV4500, then it is even more of a reason to go with the #10 as if you had an auto, those additions would probably eat up the transmission.

Just make sure you have some sort of air flow improvement when you go to the #10 cuz EGT can tend to get bit hot when really gettin' on it. I have only seen 1400*, but for a short time during a 4th to 5th shift.

 

[pwerwagn]

I've never seen anyone running a 12 yet, or talked to anyone with a 12 either. The general idea i've seen is a 10 is the best profile for adjustability, but quite a few people seem to have good luck with an 11. I do believe you will want the 3kgsk from what I have read around here.

 

[JGK]

Oh, you'll notice a difference! It also depend where you set the plate relative to stock position, as far as how much you'll notice. And it is not difficult to drive if you have dicipline. But once you see the performance, its just too much fun not to use it.



Contrary to JGheen, I can see much higher temps if I stay in it. EGTs seem to stay under 1300 degrees on mine until I stay in it in 5th, then all of a sudden they'll jump to 1500. But by then, I'm going quite fast.



4th gear acceleration from about 1500 revs still impresses me and I've had my setup for over a year. It's amazing to feel a truck this big move that fast.



Beware, though. You'll want more! I think Piers has the 370 injectors on sale. They work very well on the '98 12valves and are one of the best bangs for the buck when he has them on sale. Get them now even if you're not ready to put them in.



-Jay

 

[JGheen]

I've never seen anyone running a 12 yet, or talked to anyone with a 12 either. The general idea i've seen is a 10 is the best profile for adjustability, but quite a few people seem to have good luck with an 11. I do believe you will want the 3kgsk from what I have read around here.

Yeah, I think a 12 plate is so close to the stock plate profile, you probably wouldn't even feel a difference, of course depending on where you set it at.

 

[JGheen]

Contrary to JGheen, I can see much higher temps if I stay in it. EGTs seem to stay under 1300 degrees on mine until I stay in it in 5th, then all of a sudden they'll jump to 1500. But by then, I'm going quite fast.



4th gear acceleration from about 1500 revs still impresses me and I've had my setup for over a year. It's amazing to feel a truck this big move that fast.



Beware, though. You'll want more! I think Piers has the 370 injectors on sale. They work very well on the '98 12valves and are one of the best bangs for the buck when he has them on sale. Get them now even if you're not ready to put them in.



-Jay

Oh, I can see 1500 easy, if I stay in the throttle in 4th and 5th, too. But I just shift when I see 1300 to be safe and benefit the engine's life. Besides by the time EGT really sky-rockets about the time my boost hits 40 psi, the turbo is just pumping so much hot air that it is better to just shift and not push it. Power just starts to really level off and go nowhere anyway.

 

[Bob4x4]

The 10 in the stock location will be too hot to tow without a better turbo. The 11 is hot enough to need to watch the gauges while towing.

The 12 is mild but you will pick up some noticable torque.



Bob

 

[Kernel]

I ran an 11 plate for a while and had nice results especially going from stock. I never did run the plate in the stock position. Temps were never a problem and the slightest hint of clutch slip (stock) was noted in 4th gear when getting on it hard. I added 370's and a 16cm housing and blew through the same clutch. I got rid of the 11 and now have what is pretty much a 0 plate and sometimes wonder if there is still a clutch to be had. I know of people who have dynoed over 400 horse using the 11 plate as a basis, so like said before it works good for some. To do over again I would get a 10 and go from there. You can always slide the plate back to save the clutch and EGTs, and slide forward as the turbo, clutch, or whatever is upgraded. Put a BHAF of somesort on and you should be good to go.



Scott

 

[boondock]

I have had my #10 and 3KGSK in for about 4 weeks and the difference is night and day. Get the 3KGSK also. I started with a stock plate slid all the way foreward. Then put in the #10 and 3K the plate being all the way back (mild). Nearly no difference in power. Couldn't get EGT's above 1000. Then we came back and slid the plate just a little over half way foreward and now it is a new truck!!! Tons more power and a blast to drive. EGT's are pretty safe espically after I put the BHAF in. Before the BHAF I could get to 1300 around 60 in fourth gear this is from a dead stop to 60 BTW. Now with the BHAF I hit 1200 around 70 in fourth and around 85-90 I hit 1300 and it will go crazy from there IF I stay in it which there is no reason to.



Just to let you know you can get the guages, then slide the stock plate all the way foreward and that will be much better than stock. My truck put down 233-248 RWHP with the stock plate slid all the way with not to much smoke. Haven't had it dynoed since but not many ricers can run with it!! Go with the #10 and play with it till you get the smoke you can handle with the egt and power you can handle. Have fun!!



Also to let you know I have had ZERO clucth slippage with my set-up. Might help that I only have 63,000 miles on my truck but no problems yet.

 

[Howard Durand]

I have the #5 in my truck right now but I have a devil of a time with the egt's. They come up fast and are hard to manage.

I just ordered a #10 from Piers and am really hoping this will make life better.

 

[sewman]

When I put my#4 in w/DD3's I had some high rgt's,blew a headgasket & ported it while off & made a big difference. Along w/4" straight pipe & 16cm.

only goes over 1250 when pulling.

Bob

 

[zues]

1996 all stock

I would like to get a 4 inch exhaust, guages, and a TST plate. Is there a good place to get all of it.

 

[sewman]

Go here; http://www.piersdiesel.com/

 

[Hammer]

Well lots of interesting responses on this thread. .

i have no transmission mods. i don't do tractor pulls. i don't race people on the street. i'd just like to increase available power for towing.

My advise is to stay away from the 10 plate with no transmission upgrades and no gauges,but,it is your truck. The 11 plate,a 14cm exhaust housing and some timing will allow you to do what you seek easily and have alot less exhaust temps than just "adding" a 10 plate. Do the gauge install first before you attempt any modifications. Also keep in mind a clutch and input shaft upgrade will end up being necessary even with this plate.



boondock, who is bragging about a 10 plate and no slippage I ask this...

Do you feel that you are living on borrowed time or maybe your tune-up is off a touch?. The 10 plate alone will hit the clutch and cause slippage easily and milage doesn't matter from what I have seen. I know owners who have twisted input shafts or snapped them and fried clutches with a properly tuned 10 plate equipped truck. Please give the guy who asked good info and not a load of BS. The mods you are claiming to have would make a stock clutch assembly go screaming loudly back to the factory where it was made. .



Howard. .

With the 5 plate having been designed for a automatic truck which has less fuel to begin with its easy to understand how you have egt problems. A 10 plate and 16 housing will help ease your egt pains,but,will not solve them.



The 12 plate. .

While its not rated much over the factory specs it probably one of the most under rated plates made. With a proper tune up,I have seen some trucks equipped with this plate lay down nice numbers and have little egt concerns. Egts will still be higher than stock but are certainly more managable than the other plates.



Keep in mind when the addition of more fuel is made that you WILL need to balance it out with more air and a way to remove the heated gasses. While the addition of a aftermarket air intake is a well needed addition you will need to do something to help the motor breathe easier and allow the exhaust gasses to escape faster. Once you get decide on the bigger fueling plates a aftermarket turbo with more exhaust housing to add air and help remove the gasses will be a necessity. Joe D summed it up best along time ago. . Air+fuel=Power,some may want to find that article and brush up on it some as it will help answer alot of the questions.



Research,research,research before opening the wallet and spending will help give you the best bang for your buck and allow for longevity of your ride... ... ... . Andy

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

I started with a #11. I personally feel this was a better plate for just towing than the #10 from an EGT standpoint. And the #11 can hurt the clutch, depending on the shape of the clutch when you start. I went with the #10 because I wanted more. It works well for towing also, but I have to pay a whole lot more attention to the gauges.



Jim

 

[Howard Durand]

I am going to try the #10 and see what takes place. The #5 works great when the truck is unloaded but when towing the trailer, it keeps me paying more attention to the egt gauge than the road and I don't like that.



I actually have had pretty good luck with the plate Banks provided with their power pak, which also included an upgrade for the turbo exhaust housing.

By comparing the Banks plate with a picture I have seen, it appears to be similar to a TST #6.



If the #10 doesn't work out, I may go back to the Banks and sell the others. I wasn't getting the boost when I had the Banks plate in that I am now but I didn't have the boost elbow either.

Their plate with an elbow might be all that I would need. I don't run races, I just want to pull my trailer over the hills.



I am also thinking of losing the cat on a rock someplace to see if that would help some.

 

[boondock]

Hammer I was not bragging I just stated I have had no slippage as of yet.....

I do not expect it to last to long and I plan on upgrading within six months. I was speaking from what I have experienced. Thats why I said my truck, I have had none. I didn't tell him he would not have any.



Also Piers said I could get away with this set-up for a little while with out upgrading the clutch as long as I don't tow heavy (which I don't) and take it a little easy but I have done little of that.



Also two people can vouch for my set-up. Rattlin-Ram who I put everything in with a T-Bone as they both have ridden in my truck.



Thanks for telling me what I have experienced in my own truck.



You can slide the plate back to make the clutch last mines a little more than half towards the front and I am not going to move it until I get a clutch

 

[ALehman]

which one for me

I have a 94' automatic. I have increased my pump timing 20% and i have a afe magnum force air intake and 3'' straight piped exhaust. I am also installing guages this weekend (boost and EGT) what plate would be best for me? Also should i get a transmission temp guage.

 

[JGheen]

I have a 94' automatic. I have increased my pump timing 20% and i have a afe magnum force air intake and 3'' straight piped exhaust. I am also installing guages this weekend (boost and EGT) what plate would be best for me? Also should i get a transmission temp guage.

As some have said before, since you are running the auto, that is the first upgrade I would do or adding a plate will just eat it alive. Upgrade the auto first, then think about a #10 plate.

What is your timing set at? 20% could mean any number depending on where your base timing was.

Either way, get the #10 you won't be disappointed.

 

[shorty2500]

... if i were to get the #10, and just didn't hit the pedal hard, would i notice the difference? does changing these plates mean it is harder to control acceleration?



i'd like to be able to get the #10 and just keep it light on the pedal until i beefed up the clutch...

i appreciate all of the responses, but y'all haven't answered this question, yet. what i'm getting at is, how does the plate work? does it allow more fuel to get forced into the engine for the same amount of push on the pedal?



here's another way of asking my question:



(the numbers used in the following sentences are for discussion purposes only. please do not waste time correcting me. it will provide no value. the numbers are there only to demonstrate relative differences. thank you. )



let's say that the pedal has 10 positions...

- position 1 = idle

-

- position 5 = 1/2 power

-

- position 10 = at the floor (max power)



for a stock plate in the stock position, let's say that pedal position 5 = 400 ft-lb torque. for the same pedal position 5, would a #12 plate have 500 ft-lb torque? would #11 have 560? would #10 have 620?



if so, is it possible to run a #10 plate, in a lower pedal position and not get the clutch-destroying torque and the heavy smoke?