Here I am

TST PowerMaxCR 2004.5 600

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

And yet another exhaust question....

04 injector pump problems

Status
Not open for further replies.
In other words if you have installed a PowerMaxCR on the new Cummins 600 motor can you expiain what the orange, red and black wire go to.
 
I believe the orange is keyed 12 volt+ and red is constant 12 volt+. Mine only had one black wire and it had a large eye to connect to the battery's negative terminal. Did the box not come with install instructions? Are the instructions not accurate for the 600's?



-Scott
 
lmills, hats off to ya and thanks for the quick responce. I've only ran it up to 4 on hp and 1 on t. and this little babie rips!
 
Cali-600, did you put the boost elbow in yet, they are kinda funky but in stock turbo trim 4/4 I can peg about 43 lbs of boost so I feel no need to put mine on but the way this thing looks it could maybe bleed some pressure off for lower boost? Maybe Ill go put it on if I can figure it out (doesnt say in the instructions).
 
Originally posted by mattymac

Cali-600, did you put the boost elbow in yet, they are kinda funky but in stock turbo trim 4/4 I can peg about 43 lbs of boost so I feel no need to put mine on but the way this thing looks it could maybe bleed some pressure off for lower boost? Maybe Ill go put it on if I can figure it out (doesnt say in the instructions).



Mark at TST told me you must run the elbow. You may wish to check with him. Also in stock form Mark indicated 3/3 should be a max with the auto, FYI. With 4/1 that you ran, what was the egt?
 
on 4/4 I can only hit about 1150 because the truck pulls so hard and quick I have to shift very fast while using all the power, and I think the gauges cant react quick enough (TST and Auto Meter). The big test will be when I go to my next snowmobile race this weekend with the 4 place enclosed. Also I put the box on, pulled out of the driveway and CEL came on, ran perfect, came back and checked the cam and crank sensors about 3 starts later light went out, ran it for a while then went to 5/5 CEL came on then right back out in a few starts. Runs perfect though. Code was P0606.
 
Matt,

Kinda of a late reply but no boost elbo here, I have been running for 6 months without it, It maxes at 38 psi, have you installed yours, if so any luck?
 
but in stock turbo trim 4/4 I can peg about 43 lbs of boost
Are yuou reading that from a mechanical boost gauge, or from the TST? If it's from the TST, that's just the limit of the MAP sensor, and you could be making more boost than that... not good on a stock turbo. Use the elbow.



-Tom
 
Power Max CR instructions

GFritsch Those instructions are for the 24 valve non Common Rail boxes. I've been meaning to talk to Mark and see if he will send me the actual instructions for the CR application. I haven't bought mine yet as I want to upgrade the clutch and the exhaust manifold at the same time. I am very leery of T-tap connectors under the hood, or anywhere else for that matter. Those of you that have put in your CR boxes do you still have to use the T-taps or is it a plug and play connection? Thanks Ken Irwin
 
No taps at all. All the sensor connections use factory-style connectors, one male, one female, allowing the box to sit in-line with the factory harness. The only "taps" are the two power lines (red and orange), and these tap two fuses in the PDC. They aren't like other fuse taps that ruin the fuse sockets - they're very thin brass that surrounds the leg of the fuse, and never even enters the socket. The result is you get the connections, but don't pierce any wires, or ruin any sockets.



In short, you have two wiring harnesses that come with the box. One has connections for the three fuel injector connections, and the MAP sensor. The other has connections for the crank and cam sensors. There's the two power wires discussed above, a ground wire, the connector for the remote, and in the case of the remote with gauges, a yellow/red pair of wires that connect to the thermocouple.



The hardest part of installing the box is drilling/tapping for the thermocouple (no different than any other EGT gauge). Second in difficulty is the cam sensor, because of it's location. The instructions tell you to have the wheels turned all the way to the right before starting. If you do this, it's not too terribly difficult to reach from underneath.



Get yourself a tube of silicone di-electric grease, and fill the connectors with this before assembling. Use plenty of tie-wraps to keep any of the connectors from vibrating, and you'll be all set.



-Tom
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top