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Turbo Codes

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I need to replace my truck---what do I look for

Oil levels

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For the last few months, my 2016 2500 had the check engine light intermittently with code U010C lost communication with the turbo actuator. The local dealer only read the code, didn’t check anything else and wanted $2800 to swap the actuator and because it wasn’t diagnosed as the entire turbo, my extended warranty wouldn’t cover it. I opted to not have the dealer do anything since I had friends who used to work there and advised against them. I cleared the code and was trying to get it to pass smog. No luck. This week a permanent code set, P003A Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control "A" Position Exceeded Learning Limit. Now I have no exhaust brake and only 10 psi boost showing in the EVIC.
Is this still just the actuator or would it now be the entire turbo because of the P003A code?
 
It reads like it can still just be the actuator. But the turbo is also listed see attached.

No hands on for me on this, just reading up and pushing some paper. In case anyone else has some info.

P003A
Possible Causes
ELECTRONIC TURBO ACTUATOR

ELECTRONIC TURBO ACTUATOR MISCALIBRATED

TURBOCHARGER

NOTE:
If turbocharger actuator calibration procedure is interrupted without completing, it may result in a P003A. Turbocharger actuator must be recalibrated using the turbocharger actuator installation procedure.

So not limited to the entire Turbo.
 

Attachments

It's the Actuator. Several folks are going with City Diesel's replacement. It doesn't require the calibration. Here is the link:
City Diesel Turbo Actuators
It's not a hard job to swap. I did mine in a couple hours and I did a complete coolant change and calibration. You don't have to drain your coolant, you can clamp the lines. Start by taking your front, passenger wheel off and remove the well liner. The actuator will be right there. There are 4 allen head bolts holding it on the turbo. One of them on the bottom is behind the shock mount and could be a pain to get out. Some have bored an access hole through the mount to get to it easier. Once you have it off, make sure the VGT lever moves freely on the turbo. If it's seized, you'll need a complete turbo.
 
What kind of warranty? Max care covered my actuator.
It’s a third party warranty from my credit union. When I bought the truck new, the dealership sold me a 7 year, 75,000 mole warranty. When it expired, I added the current warranty which doesn’t cover just the actuator.
 
I guess my biggest concern is that if I get the City Diesel actuator, then take it apart and find that the turbo is the issue. My warranty will cover the turbo but already denied the actuator. Thank you the info. TMyers, what did you clamp the coolant hoses with? These are coolant hoses to the turbo, correct? Sorry my ignorance, but I while have done lots of hands on work on my 95 12 valve, I have done nothing on the 2016.
 
I guess my biggest concern is that if I get the City Diesel actuator, then take it apart and find that the turbo is the issue. My warranty will cover the turbo but already denied the actuator. Thank you the info. TMyers, what did you clamp the coolant hoses with? These are coolant hoses to the turbo, correct? Sorry my ignorance, but I while have done lots of hands on work on my 95 12 valve, I have done nothing on the 2016.
A small pair of visegrips is all you need to clamp the hoses. I saw a Diesel Tech at a dealership do this trick. Most just catch the coolant in a pan and pour it back in. My truck had 85K miles on the 100K coolant, so I just dumped all of mine and added new. It took 4 gallons of OAT coolant from the dealership, nothing else is compatible with it.
 
Buy coolant hose pliers, they go for cents and do not harm the hoses. Three different sizes are available at the parts stores - you'll need the smallest.

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Depending on age of coolant you could also put new in if still the OEM charge.
 
Buy coolant hose pliers, they go for cents and do not harm the hoses. Three different sizes are available at the parts stores - you'll need the smallest.

#ad


Depending on age of coolant you could also put new in if still the OEM charge.
I bought the city diesel actuator and I’m getting ready to do this. But I am not able to identify exactly which coolant lines. I should use the clamps on. The hose that I’m pointing to goes from the turbo to a coolant why that is above the oil filter. Is this one of the ones I am supposed to clamp? The flexible section looks like steel braided hose. I’m assuming there is a second line but I have not yet found it.
image.jpg
 
I ended up bringing the coolant from the lower radiator hose behind the right side there. I was able to pull the hose and drain right into a funnel using five one gallon containers with no issue. So my question now is how long after installing the city diesel actuator will it take for permanent code P003A to go away? I have to get this damn thing smog checked as soon as possible. Also, what is the max boost? I should expect to see on a 2016 6.7 L? After installing the new actuator I was able to get 24 pounds of boost. I never really paid attention at this point thank you in advance.
 
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