Turbo Cooldown at Fuel Stops

[LesStallings]

I know you guys are getting tired or all my rookie questions,



BUT



what is the best way to allow the turbo to cool down when stopping for fuel? I don't think the truck stop will want me to keep the truck idling while I fill up, but maybe that is the case.



Also, what temperature is low enough for a safe shut down?



Thanks.

 

[ndurbin]

I let mine cool down to 300* before shutdown. I have left it running quite a few times and never had a problem about it. In cooler weather I just leave it idling when filling up.



Nathan

 

[hammersley]

Start to get an advantage on cool down by

changing your driving habits, By this I mean there are virtually No Fueling Stations that are on a hill - SO you can start to plan your attack and use neutral to coast - CONTROLLED PLEASE - and you'll find that often you can get an additional 10-15 seconds of cool down - simply by coasting and not driving up under power - that will get you a jump on the cool-down process.



You're also being economical - (doing two things at once) as now while you're approaching you're also cooling her down. I use this approach in many areas -especially parking lots etc..... BUT YOU HAVE TO BE AWARE of what's happening around you... ...



Now temps - 300 is ideal - I run a FASS so I can't let her idle - but I shut down when she is at 375 and going down... ... ... Now on the other hand if you have been running hard - big boost - mega box - heavy load uphill - or hot days - or any combination of the above you will be in for a 4-5 min cool down period... ...



BUT most clowns (of all brands) have no idea about this - as they have no gauges at all... ... I guess it kind'a goes with the V-8 Mentality!!!

 

[ProspectorTim]

One option is the Turbo Lifesaver from Genos.



I also met a guy at a rest area that said he lets his truck idle for 5 minutes before he shuts it down, every time (no timer, just sit there!).



I don't have gauges yet, but I do take what I think is a reasonable approach.

When I'm on the highway and towing the camper, I kill the cruise control and back out of the throttle several miles before the fuel exit. I just gradually slow down, and stay out of the turbo as much as possible. When I get to the truck stop, I maneuver my way over to the pumps pretty much at an idle. This is not a race or a PIT STOP; No need to see how fast you can get to the pumps. Often, after I'm parked in front of the pump I'll just let it idle some more while I write down my mileage and toss the trash.



And if that isn't enough, well I also run Amsoil synthetic motor oil. It will withstand the heat a lot better than the dead dinosaur stuff.

 

[HBarlow]

Les:



I routinely allow my truck to idle when fueling or when I make a restroom stop at a highway rest stop. It keeps engine temps stabilized and in-cab temp remains heated or cooled depending on the weather. I've read in truck stop literature that some states are moving toward anti-idle enforcement. Eventually the environmental wackos will force us to shut down immediately like they do their Yugos and Hyundais.



Everyone on the TDR forums recommends and uses 300 degrees as shut down temperature if they have gauges and the recommended times from their owner's manual if they don't. At the end of a presentation at the TDR rally at the B5. 9 engine plant in Columbus, IN 2-1/2 years ago a Cummins engineer told me that 350 degrees is safe. I still wait for 300 to 325 degrees because that is what my fellow TDR members taught me when I was a beginnner.



Harvey

 

[NIsaacs]

Like others have said, plan your stop in advance with turbo cool down in mind. One thing I do when pulling heavy on a hill, is back out of it towards the top, so the turbo is not so hot as you bail off the other side. I always thought cooling a hot turbo too fast was hard on them too. An exhaust brake helps in this, slows the fast cooling of immediate down hill run after a tough up hill pull.



Just curious, but whatcha' haulin? You have been very quiet about this, you are not over weight are ya just kidding, I wouldn't flame ya if you were



"NICK"

 

[klenger]

My understanding of the cokeing (sp) problem with the turbos is that it happens as the oil in the turbo cools down. When I stop for fuel driving empty, I just shut it down and fill up. If I am towing, I wait about a minute and shut down. In any case, I start it back up and leave long before the oil has a chance to cool down, so there should not be a problem. For all the discussion there is about turbo cool down, I have never heard of a single TDR member experience a problem because of insufficient cool down.

 

[NIsaacs]

I was always under the impression that the cokeing of the oil in a hot turbo, was because of the loss of oil flow on shut down. That the hot turbo will actually cook the remaining oil that is in the oil galley. No oil flow, no cooling. Does that make sense



"NICK"

 

[MChalkley]

I've only owned a Ram CTD since '93 (and have 800 miles on my '05 ), but been around bigger trucks all my life. I always heard that "cooking" a turbo comes from the oil "cokeing", and that's caused by cutting the truck off (thus stopping oil circulation through the turbo) while the turbo still hot enough to cause the oil to start breaking down from the heat. Even if the bearing surfaces are cool enough to not burn the oil when you shut it down (which they wouldn't be while the engine is running because the circulating oil is cooling them), heat will transfer from the rest of the turbo and manifold after the engine is stopped, which would obviously raise the temps of the bearing surfaces for a while, thus "spiking" the temps and burning the oil, if things aren't allowed to cool down sufficiently first.



All that having been said, I've generally towed heavier than average loads since I've owned a CTD, and I've never cut it off at a fuel stop and don't ever intend to, unless the fuel stop is combined with a meal stop, in which case the truck runs while I'm fueling and gets shut down after I park it to go eat. Usually, if I've been running hard, I'll let it idle until I've gotten the fueling started and checked the tires, then turn on the exhaust brake to keep from cooling things down too much.



The truck stop idling measures some states are looking at are only aimed at extended, or even overnight idling, as far as I've heard. I don't think any state will ever ban idling while refueling, and if they (CA) did, it wouldn't be inforced.

 

[LesStallings]

Fuel Stop Idling

Just curious, but whatcha' haulin? You have been very quiet about this, you are not over weight are ya just kidding, I wouldn't flame ya if you were



"NICK"

Looks like I'll be idling at fuel stops and I'll fuel up first and then park for a meal, shutting it down after the temps get to 300-325° (hold down the Alt key while typing 248 on the key pad and then release the Alt key, what you get is °)



We are in the process of moving back to the family farm. It's my turn to own it since I've outlived the other relatives



I'm retired and deeply involved in restoring early post-war Rolls-Royce automobiles. No, can't afford a new one, but I can buy a 40-50 year old one and work on it.



#ad




The good thing about moving to Tennesse is the large amount of land and the ability to build the shop of my dreams. Land is so dear in Las Vegas that I've been working out of a three car garage. Building a 48'x48' garage/shop will be much fun.



SO, I've got to move three cars and tons of workshop/garage stuff. I'm planing enough trips so I don't think weight will be a problem. Driver boredom might be an issue after the newness of the first trip or two wears off!!

 

[bpenrod]

Try a Cool Down Timer, I htink the website is http://www.cool-downtimer.com/ have one on my truck and use it regularly in the hotter months. In the winter it cools quick enough on it's own.

 

[HBarlow]

MChalkley's detailed description above matches the information, advice, and cautions that I have read from several sources and also what I have been told by more experienced Cummins owners and big-truck drivers. It is the extreme high temperatures trapped in the turbo housing after engine oil stops circulating that cooks the oil. I think it is even possible for the oil to cook and harden while the turbo is still spinning down in some rare cases.



Harvey

 

[LesStallings]

The Geno's timer is $240 and the Cool-Down timer is $80...



How good is the Dodge parking brake? With the gooseneck trailer attached, cooling down in neutral (6-speed), would you trust the parking brake or would chocks be advisable?

 

[HBarlow]

Good question. I rely on my parking brake unless parked on a significant slope with trailer attached. I carry a pair of large yellow plastic chocks from Camping World behind the seat when towing. If I park on a slope and intend to leave the engine idling I chock the truck wheels. The bright yellow color is sufficient (at least so far) to prevent me driving away with chocks in place.



I carry two key rings (and a spare key in my wallet). One small key ring contains my truck ignition key only. I carry the remote door lock fob on a separate key ring. That way I can stop, engage the exhaust brake, engage the parking brake, chock if necessary, get out and lock the doors with the remote and walk away with the truck idling and feel the truck is fairly safe. I've done this for 3-1/2 years and 147k miles without problem.



Harvey

 

[ndurbin]

I'd use the parking brake and chocks (if I had a manual) and were doing an extended idle or on a slope. But if it's at the pump and on a level surface the parking brake should be sufficient to keep ya there.



Nathan

 

[DLBurns]

The Geno's timer is $240 and the Cool-Down timer is $80...



How good is the Dodge parking brake? With the gooseneck trailer attached, cooling down in neutral (6-speed), would you trust the parking brake or would chocks be advisable?

Les,

I have no experience with Genos timer but I do have the cool-down timer and it works flawlessley. You can set it for 2,4,or 6 minutes... plenty of variance for high summer temps.

I always try and shut down below 300° ( that alt 248 really works )

I envy you getting out of the rat race and back to the country. I am originally from Western Kentucky and love the wide open space of that neck of the woods.

By the way... beautiful Rolls

Dave

 

[TW1]

LesStallings, nice car, but the alt 248 alt does not work. Please explain.

Tom

 

[LesStallings]

ASCII Characters

LesStallings, nice car, but the alt 248 alt does not work. Please explain.

Tom

First be sure that when you type on the KEYPAD, numbers appear. If you have the NumLock off, the keypad functions with arrow controls.



So, using the KEYPAD (note, using the numbers at the top of the keyboard do NOT work), do the following.



Hold down the ALT key and do not release it.



Type on the KEYPAD the numbers 248



Release the ALT key.



With most normal PC configurations, the degree symbol (°) appears.



Other characters can be produced similarly:



½ ¼ ± ≥ ∞ ƒ etc.



Cheers! ¥Ω

 

[Jumbo Jet]

° Thanks for the hint.

 

[Eric_77]

How good is the Dodge parking brake? With the gooseneck trailer attached, cooling down in neutral (6-speed), would you trust the parking brake or would chocks be advisable?

The Dodge parking brake on the third gen is really pretty good the older Drum brake 2nd gen not so good to the point of almost worthless without constant (like daily 275k on oringinal shoes) manual adjustment of the shoes. I would be a little hesitant to leave a large weight relying on the truck parking brake on a incline, AS a side note semi trucks air brake parking systmes run one rear axle and then the trailer locks down as well.