Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo,fuel plate, injecter combo for 180 hp 12 valve

[johnjackson]

Someone asked about towing with upgrades and Joe Donnelly suggested what he thought would be the best turbo, fuel plate, injector combo but I'm not able to find it in all my past issues. Any suggestions?

 

[MLee]

TDR issue # 23, also buyers guide has some of the info you want from Quotes also listed.

 

[johnjackson]

Thanks for the input MLee. I was hoping that someone could save me a lot of page turning and refer me to the recent response by Joe. More information is that I have a #10 fuel plate and 230 hp injectors. I have about 360k miles on the original turbo with waste gate cranked down. It now squeals at anything over 20 pounds boost. I'm getting worried about a failure......John

 

[MLee]

John as we get older we moan and groan to so with that kind of miles and use take it easy on the old girl. It isn't a sprint car any more.

 

[JMcCoy]

Just rebuild or replace your turbo, and then modify the hell out of it. And get rid of your K&N air filter. It is likely the reason your turbo is failing. They don't filter.

 

[johnjackson]

Thanks for the input JMcCoy. I need to edit sig. Got rid of K&N after article in TDR. I've been using paper in stock box ever since. I have to replace them about every oil change because of all the dirt and gravel roads I drive on so I buy 6 at a time from Geno's. I'm thinking all I need is a BD stainless manifold and a BD super B turbo. Then a valve job as time and money allows.

 

[Shadrach]

Don't forget that the 180 has different pistons, injectors, fuel pump, camshaft and turbo than the 215 engine so don't get too carried away. My friend bought a 96 that had too much fuel and no gauges. The exhaust manifold has 4 out of 6 ears broken off. Only the bolts were holding it together.
David

 

[GAmes]

Don't forget that the 180 has different pistons, injectors, fuel pump, camshaft and turbo than the 215 engine so don't get too carried away. My friend bought a 96 that had too much fuel and no gauges. The exhaust manifold has 4 out of 6 ears broken off. Only the bolts were holding it together.
David

I don't think so. Different injectors and p-pump, yes. The rest of the engine is the same.

 

[The patriot]

Did you do the KDP?
Here's a pretty good guide.
http://forums.trucktrend.com/diesel-power/70/8180501/cummins/2nd-gen-12-valve-performance-guide/

Oh yea, if youre on the stock clutch, bank for that too.

 

[johnjackson]

I did the KDP when the tools to do it from the out side where traveling around. The stock clutch started slipping in 5th with just the #10 plate and the turbo waste gate cranked down. On my third clutch and second trans. 360k miles. I take it a little easier but the power is nice if I need it. I just upgrade as things wear out..........Thanks for the input

 

[Shadrach]

I don't think so. Different injectors and p-pump, yes. The rest of the engine is the same.

Sorry. But your are wrong. Here are the Cummins part number for a 1997 Dodge 5.9 comparing 180 (auto) and 215 (manual ) engines taken straight from the Cummins parts books.

180 HP vs 215 HP

Pistons p/n 3802487 vs p/n 3802561
Rings p/n 3802421 vs p/n 3802230
Injectors p/n 3802546 vs p/n 3802546
Camshaft p/n 3929734 vs p/n 3929040
Turbo p/n 3802992 vs p/n 3802994
Inj pump p/n 3931539 vs p/n 3931600

The top rings on the piston are in a different position on the piston, as in closer together and higher up, and have inserts. Granted some of these part numbers have now changed into the same for both engines.

David

 

[GAmes]

Another piece of trivia. Thanks. I guess I would have known that if I had wanted to spend megabucks for genuine Cummins internals. I don't remember anyone ever mentioning it before.

 

[Shadrach]

The pistons and cam for example are the same parts that are used on the 230 HP ( highest automotive rating of this generation engine ) Freightliner version of the 5.9, and the 250 HP military version for that matter. Now Marine... that's a whole different kettle of fish:-laf

It helps to have bunch of Cummins parts books and access to their web parts catalogue.

David

 

[johnjackson]

David, thanks for the technical input. Always welcome. My '98 is a little different than above discussion. It is California manual 180 hp. I'm wondering where it fit in compared to the 49 state manual.
Also I'm happy with current power. It's awesome in 1800-2400 rpm range. The original turbo is starting to complain about the abuse of the last 361k miles, and I find on long steep up hill in 4 wheel low in lowest gear I have over heat problems. Same with trailer pulling on long, hot uphill pulls. It seems like more air is in order and an upgrade to modern turbo technology, since it wants replacing anyway. I'm always open to thoughtful suggestions......John

 

[Shadrach]

I found some pics I had that show the difference in pistons. Altho these are not 12 valve pistons they are 5.9 Cummins. You can see the different placement of the upper 2 two rings , how close they can be together and also how close or not to the crown of the piston, also the inserts, single or dual. This, ad many other things, effects how much abuse the piston will take. That and the material used in the rings. Some pistons have a coating on the skirt or on the top to take heat and reduce friction.

Just some more trivia for those who like that kind of stuff and for those who don't get to see this every day. Sorry I got a little off topic fro the first post. Maybe I'll do up a post about pistons some day.



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[SSage]

Lots of turbo choices out there. A simple HX-35/40 hybrid may work for you: https://www.citydiesel.net/dodgezilla-turbo-p-30.html?cPath=32_34&osCsid=ud5plse738doqbs1rn0ki78o92

Probably what I should have done, when I was towing heavy the larger turbo does have a noticeable lag time. Not bad with the auto, but a quicker spooling turbo is nice with a manual for sure. I don't run past 30 psi much anyway when pulling over 10K, don't really need a big huffer for towing. When playing, a large turbo will clean up my 370 injectors though, at full throttle at 1100 to 1200 degrees I can easily maintain 42 psi which is when the waste gate opens. The larger housing lets me use most of the fuel when I'm unloaded, can't get into it for long when I'm pulling big trailers though. I learned that I really stay around 25 psi with my current 62/14 turbo even when I'm pulling hills with 30 pounds if I hammer it in direct drive with my 3.55 rear. The 3K gov kit made a huge difference pulling hard above 2500 rpm, the EGT difference with the RPM's up with a 18K load is night and day. Out pulls the 2003 with 4.10's. I'm over fueled, but I can maintain a 900 to 1,100 egt pulling a 43' tall 5th wheel toy hauler at 15 to 20 pounds of boost in mild hills, love my old 12 valve.