Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Turbo Help

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Jardine exhaust

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) what is the IAT sensor cleaning

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm getting ready to add some power to my 95, probably some DDP stg II with a new fuel plate. I am shooting for about 300 hp. I've been reading alot of threads about turbos and it sounds like I may need to upgrade. I don't know much about turbos, so I'm looking for suggestions on what I need if anything. I have seen lots of abbreviations when it comes to turbos, not sure what they all mean. The HX35 seems like a reasonable upgrade, but I have also seen lots of talk about a s300 variant. Also, what is the advantage to forking out for the twin set up, if any in my case? When does porting the head become necessary?
 
At 300hp you can run the stock turbo just fine. A boost elbow that comes with the plate kits will help you get some boost out of it. Your truck already has the hx35 and should have the 12cm wastegated turbine housing. Depending on what fuel plate you get, a common upgrade for the hx35 is to have a bigger compressor wheel put in it. PDR uses a 58mm and most others put a 60mm wheel in it. This is most commonly called a 35/40 hybrid. Some people put a 14cm or 16cm turbine housing to cool better on the top end because there're bigger of course.



Next step up would be a 300G or super B turbo. This is rated for up to 425hp and seems to be a good towing turbo. I'm not sure how it would work at 300hp, maybe someone who has tried it will chim in.



Porting the head is always helpful, but expensive and not worth it unless you're going for bigger hp. Twins are the same way, and are great for towing with bigger hp, nothing better imo.



Well, there's some info to get started.



Oh yeah, don't do any upgrading without gauges!!



Clayton
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info. After looking at what I'm thinking about doing, I might end up making more like 350 hp. Where does the super B work best as far as HP? I don't want to give up much at the low end, but I would definately like to keep things cool.
 
Super B's are rated for around 350-425 hp according to BD and the pdr 35 is rated up to 350hp according to pdr's website. I've seen the 35/40 hybrids go to 400+ hp, but will be hot. The super b seems like a good turbo to me and should spool up good, and from experience, the pdr 35 is a good turbo.
 
I was thinking that I would buy a single turbo now, and then upgrade to the twins later. As far as reliability and ease of install and set up, which twin system works best. I use the truck as a daily driver and hauler, but don't do any racing. I don't need something that requires alot of adjustments, just something that performs well.
 
Schwitzer S300G #174430
57MM Extended tip Compressor Wheel
65MM 11 Blade HTB Turbine Wheel
. 80 or 12/14 cm2, Housing

This is the info I have on the S300G, which is the same as the Super B except for BDs wastegate. I've talked to lots of guys running these turbos and they love them. They say it spools very quickly and makes great power.

I'm not crazy about my HTT 62/12, wish it spooled faster, though it is faster than stock. It is supposedly a larger and tougher turbo. I ran two stock WH1C turbos at over 400 hp for a while. I think the best one can do is sequential turbos like your stock turbo with an HT3B.

You really should be fine keeping your stock turbo under 400 hp unless you tow very heavy at high altitude for extended runs. Otherwise, I don't think you'd have any problems. I would do as any would suggest any start with at least a pyrometer and boost gauge, and try modifying your plate first.

If you have no need for the stock plate, start by grinding it yourself and sliding it forward, as well as the AFC. Adjust your boost to allow up to 35 psi, maybe just plug off the wastegate. Then add your injectors and you'll know if you need a bigger turbo by watching your gauges. Knowing how hot it gets under what situations will help you select the right turbo.

If I were you and really wanted reliable power potential, I'd go with bigger injectors, grind my own plate, advance the engine timing, keep the stock turbo, but add a bigger turbo to flow and cool your top end. Not too big a second turbo or it won't spool without really big injectors like stage 4s. I like my stage 3 injectors. More than enough fuel. My current setup surges horribly at times and doesn't control EGTs so making the right match is important.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top