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Turbo housing change question

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My turn to replace the TPS, here's what happened

NEED valve adjustment procedure...

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OK, this is for you guys that have already swapped out to a smaller housing. I ordered mine and it will be here next week. The bolts look pretty bad, hope I don't break one getting them loose.



Question - What penetrating oil does everyone use to start soaking these things so they will come out? Is there a "best" one to use?
 
Hey Stan, try to find something that will penetrate rust. Mine weren't that bad. I sprayed them down every evening when I got home for about a week. They were very tight be came off without a problem. I think the stuff I bought I found at a tractor repair place called "Rust Away".



On another note, when you start to remove it (the old housing) you will notice that two of the four bolts will contact the turbo body as they are being removed. Use these two to "push" the old housing away from the body of the old housing. I didn't do this with mine but right after I spent the better part of a day figuring out how to get it off someone else posted this method. I removed the entire turbo to get it out on the ground to wrestle with. I started out slightly tapping on mine with a rubber mallet. To finally get it off I had to use a wooden block with a fairly large hammer to get it loose. Just make sure you don't bind the shaft as you are getting the old housing off. You will better understand the part about the binding, if you don't already, when you see the new housing. Good luck and you will love the new spool up.



What size housing are you going to?? Yours is a 93 so it should have an 18 cm. If you are dropping to a 16 you may not notice much difference. I have a 92 that had a 21cm, and noticed a big difference with mine.
 
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Paccool, exactly what Shrimpy said above, pull the turbo as a unit. The nuts holding the housing to the manifold look bad but break loose very easily. Then, as Shrimpy said, use the bolt that hold the straps on to push the housing off. I didn't figure this out until I did four of them w/ a hammer and a brass dift.





Take your time and get new gaskets if your pulling the turbo.



I love to hear my 14cm wind up! ;) ;)
 
penetrating fluid

In my 13 years of turning wrenches for a living the best penetrating fluid I have found is PB Blaster. Just about anything will break loose after a 1 hour soak. If it won't come out after an overnight soak, it's not coming apart. The only problem I've had with the PB is that it doesn't lubricate well. Spray the threads with WD40 or some other light oil just before spinning the nuts off. This may not be an issue if you are using hand tools but if power tools are used the threads sometimes gall from the lack of lube. Have fun with this bombing mission.
 
Thanks guys - this type info will make it easier. I'll be on the road for a week, housing should be here when I get back.
 
intake

Cumminzpowr, what does the "Cummnzpowr Air Intake-system" consist of and what gains do you see?



I've been following the BHAF thread in the Prod/Acc. forum and been thinking of going that route.
 
air intake

Goode11:

oh it's a small design my friend and i came up with that eliminates the stock restrictive air-box, all it is,is a 4'' 45 degree rubber elbow,3'' piece of abs connector pipe,and a K&N RE-O88O air filter... i've noticed a few more pounds of boost as well as LOTS more turbo noise... . i've done some cutting also where the stock ram air came in at the front clip... . pretty cool thing actually since no one else offers a air-intake, {good one yet} for the first gen:)
 
Hi Greg



Just got home and checked my mail. Was good to see you on the road there a few weeks ago.



I'm only going with a 16 housing. I want to keep the EGT down when towing the trailer and hope to kill off a little smoke also. I didn't get it from our friend, got it from the shop in Oregon that I had work on the truck this past spring. They had a pretty good price and I didn't feel like spending a lot of time to save $10 or so.
 
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