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Turbo-ing a NON-Turbo 6.2 yes or no

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Ok guys Ive got a 83 6. 2 diesel 2wd 1ton dually 3 yard dump and with a load of dirt and trailer with a Kubota B2400 on its a DOG, even without a load its a DOG I can floor it and get nothing but 45mph on level ground... HELP!!!



So my question is ive got the opportunity to buy a banks :( kit for my truck. Ive been on thedieselplace.com and they are seeing around 9lbs of boost :-laf Would this upgrade be worth it? I know it wont respond like my cummins but I just want some more git up when im hauling dirt or towing.



Any pros/cons to turbo-ing a NON turbo 6. 2



If you know of any other kits than BANKS let me know.



Ian
 
I've heard the Sidewinder works well, but I have no personal experiance with it myself. The kit is cashy though. I looked into it for my F-250, before buying the Ram. IIRC, the kit is over $2200, new, uninstalled.



If you get one, I would suggest new headgaskets and head bolts.
 
I think you'd probably be better off building a (GASP!) 454 for that application... I think you'll find that the comp ratio of the 6. 2 is WAY too high to do much with it... I could be very wrong tho.
 
I have a '82 Blazer as "backup" vehicle with a Banks kit. While it is considerably more peppy than a non-Banks unit the performance for the amount of cost is pretty poor. For one thing the turbo itself isn't that great from what I hear but it can be modified with a larger compressor (it's tiny).



It takes an eternity to make boost and maxes at 5-6psi but the previous owner said it would reach 10 towing. I'm not sure if everything is all up to snuff though, the turbo may be having issues.



This engine was rebuilt 90k ago with stock head bolts & gaskets as far as I know but it's never lost a HG. Engine is sound and runs good.



Vaughn
 
im looking at the 500. 00 and under range for cost, Trust me the kit is more than I paid for the truck! and I woudlnt drop that much $ into that pile.



heck that $ would go to a better home (see sig) :-laf



Ian



VM have you towed much with it? Any luck?
 
Have the pistons cut to lower the compression to maybe 18 to 1 then get the turbo built to yield 20 lbs boost. Use head studs if you can find some. The next issue would be the lower end. Main studs, broken crank+ rods.
 
Banks has an artical about turboing a non turbo diesel . . I lost the link but im 100% positive its on there site somewhere ... . it has info of pro's and con's



DM
 
I used to work for commerical garage. We used to get some 1 ton Chevy C30's in with banks kits on them. Most of the drivers said between 92 to 94K the crank would break. This was commerical expidite company. So the trucks got used hard every day.



BTW the 6. 5 until the one piece rear seals came out had the same GM part number as the 6. 2 crank.
 
also another option is to find a junk 6. 5 (not hard at all) an take all the turbo components off of it they will all fit right up to your 6. 2
 
If you can get a good deal on the Banks kit, do it. Good increase in power over a non turbo 6. 2. Installed one on my 83 1/2 ton and it worked well.

Ron
 
Don't try to get too much extra power out of a 6. 2. The bottom ends are weak. I have seen lots of them with broken cranks... which pretty well destroys the whole motor! Besides, you won't get that much extra power out of just adding more air. You have to add BOTH air and FUEL to make power.



Steve Keim
 
When i installed the Banks kit I sent the pump in and they turned it up to 76cc. The truck did 228 on a load dyno. It is not a racer, but it runs well compared to the way it was. But I can't imagine using it to pull a heavy trailer.

Ron
 
Thanks for the ebay link!



the first motor I had in the truck broke snapped the crank under NO load just cruising at 50 (pretty much limited out)



So a 6. 5 turbo setup will work? my bosses 95 6. 5 seems to have quite the setup for vacume and what not. Ill have to check it over tomorrow.



If I do end up with the turbo Ill be advancing the pump. I just want a little more git up when ive got a load, its horrific tring to pull out in traffic :eek: Ive got a spare motor that I might pull apart and build it up to take some more power



Ian
 
keimmmo said:
Don't try to get too much extra power out of a 6. 2. The bottom ends are weak. I have seen lots of them with broken cranks... which pretty well destroys the whole motor! Besides, you won't get that much extra power out of just adding more air. You have to add BOTH air and FUEL to make power.



Steve Keim

Yes I think this is pretty common, and the reason is the blocks crack in the mains webbing area and then the cranks break from lack of support.



There is a fix. . . get this girdle from Diesel Services Group and if you install it before cracks start it will significantly reduce the chance of it happening. http://www.thedieselpage.com/reviews/rickpruit.htm



Another thing that breaks cranks is sloppy timing chains which lets timing jump around too much.



Vaughn
 
coleman,if you can get the banks unit off ebay for about 500. 00 or less i'd do it. i have had the exact same unit on my 82 gmc since 1992 and it has been flawless,the truck had 190k on it before the install,then covered another 160k [very hard working,abused miles]before breaking the crank[bad h balancer]. i have been around a couple other also with the same system,they had no probs either. if your truck cant hit 45mph empty something is wrong,perhaps its got a weak inj pump,i have owned 6 6. 2 equipped trucks,still got 4 of them,all of them ran well empty and towed loads up to about 6k lbs fairly well also. the banks system is good for about 11lbs of boost with a proper pump setup,but 9lbs is about normal . as mentioned the main web cracks was a possibility,but not very common,engines with 100+k on them tend to start getting slack in the timeing chain,but advanceing the pump timeing will take most of it out,and bump the power. a gear drive set is a good invesment,i'am happy with mine. the biggest factor to deal with on these engines when adding a turbo is egt's,keep them around 1100 or less,cracking pistons is a good possibility if you run much higher on a regular basis,been there done that. i cant stress how important a proper built inj pump is to these engines ,i have seen weak engines wake up,all over a 300 dollar rebuilt pump. as some one mentioned a turbo system of a 6. 5 is a option,however expect clerance problems from the injector lines and the exhaust manifold that the turbo mounts too. both the 6. 2 and the 6. 5 [the 6. 5 started in 92]saw a change in the head design in 1992,after this slight change the injectors were placed at a different angle than the ones on earlier model engines,due to this different injector angle and the design of the 6. 5 turbo exhaust manifold,your inj lines will be against the manifold. i dont know if this can be over come or not. fyi,many who dont know will not agree,but the 6. 2 with a properly built pump and a banks turbo will pull just as well as stock first gen cummins or a 7. 3,i have hauled many a load of hay and farm eguipment alongside both and not to mention my own 92 first gen with the same results. if you can manage the coin,these little engines can make some reliable power that will suprise many.
 
Thanks guys!!



While at work I was thinking of putting the turbo on the truck for now, then this winter Ill rebuild my extra motor to greater specs than stock and swap the motors.



I get about 55-60mph UNloaded (I dont want to push it too hard) and about 45-50mph loaded



If I advance my pump a little and add the turbo I should see a bit of a change right? If I do rebuild the spare motor I will have the pump sent out for sure.



Ian
 
coleman. if you plan on building a engine this winter here are some tips to consider,1'st look into the timeing geardrive set from dsg of canada,they carry the girdle kit also. 2'nd ,unless the crankshaft absolutely needs turned,dont do it,it removes some of the fillet material,which is ment to help maintain strength. i have seen many 6. 2 engines with 300+k on them and the crank still be in spec. 3'rd this would also be a good time to replace the h balancer even if it looks ok. 4th ,if you are interested in more power,start looking for a used inj pump of a 92 to a 93,6. 5 engine,these pumps put fuel out at a higher pressure than a 6. 2 pump can,a 6. 5 pump combined with highflow 6. 5 injectors will make a nice difference in power and smoke,i bought my 6. 5 injectors thru dsg for about 28. 00 bucks ea,with no core. [note;6. 5 pumps are about 200. 00 bucks more to rebuild than 6. 2 pumps,but they are a better unit overall,also with the forementioned combo,egt's can rise a little quicker and higher. ]last,unless your engine is sick,dont baby it,although 6. 2 engines are good about being able to lug down to there last breath,they truely like to be ran at fairly higher rpms,and seem to hold up better that way. .
 
If you're not that proud of that truck but still need the dump bed you can do what i'm getting ready to do. Chop the frame rails put a gooseneck on it, mount a small engine to run the pump and pull 'er with your CTD!
 
JU thanks for the tips





another question is when I toss my hy35 for a b1 or similar turbo could I fabricate the 6. 2 to run the HY? would it have enough nutz to get it spooled up? Im guessing not due to our motors taking 35psi and the 6. 2 taking 7-15?



Thanks

Ian
 
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